Indie Repair Rip-off - Invoice Attached
08-05-2014, 11:00 AM
#1
Indie Repair Rip-off - Invoice Attached
Hi all,
This past month has been horrendous due to my negative Kar Karma.
I took my Mercedes S500 into one Indie car Repair shop in an emergency situation that required a terminal box x4/10 to be replaced and was charged $750 for what I suspect was 2 hours of work and a $150 part, but hey I had few options as I was starting a new job and couldn't wait for the perfect situation. So this indie couldn't fix the rear airmatic strut being low so far that the body was on the tires or very darn close.
So (and this is where I erred) I took it to another indie right down the street thinking I could trust them to diagnose the Airmatic problem, since I asked them point blank if they could do it? It was Friday and I was desperate to get my car back.
Monday they called me and said I owe them $720 for the diagnosis and to fix the problems it would cost me $3,2080. The kicker is that they just repeated what I told them was the problem (see the invoice they gave me attached). They said if I replace my EPS PML Module the Airmatic strut problem would be solved.
What? I refused to pay the $720 and they said well you won't get your car back. After I brought the police into the matter, they said they would accept half $240 in cash.
I told them that I would only pay if they guaranteed that the EPS module was the problem and that if I replaced it with a new one it would raise the car. The Mechanic who worked on the car is not at all involved in this thievery and is actually quite competent but, the shop manager who is not a mechanic I suspect said if I bought a OEM EPS module he would guarantee it would solve my Airmatic problem, I said put everything you did and your solution in writing and guarantee that as well and I will pay the $240. But I think this issue may be going to court. I have attached the invoice they gave me (redacted).
Does the EPS Module solve my Airmatic issue? You weigh in.
By the way the Mechanic said that when he attached power directly to the pump it worked. So does that mean I need a new relay. Or is there a control module that is the culprit. I have searched this issue as it is very widely covered however there are contradictory information.
This past month has been horrendous due to my negative Kar Karma.
I took my Mercedes S500 into one Indie car Repair shop in an emergency situation that required a terminal box x4/10 to be replaced and was charged $750 for what I suspect was 2 hours of work and a $150 part, but hey I had few options as I was starting a new job and couldn't wait for the perfect situation. So this indie couldn't fix the rear airmatic strut being low so far that the body was on the tires or very darn close.
So (and this is where I erred) I took it to another indie right down the street thinking I could trust them to diagnose the Airmatic problem, since I asked them point blank if they could do it? It was Friday and I was desperate to get my car back.
Monday they called me and said I owe them $720 for the diagnosis and to fix the problems it would cost me $3,2080. The kicker is that they just repeated what I told them was the problem (see the invoice they gave me attached). They said if I replace my EPS PML Module the Airmatic strut problem would be solved.
What? I refused to pay the $720 and they said well you won't get your car back. After I brought the police into the matter, they said they would accept half $240 in cash.
I told them that I would only pay if they guaranteed that the EPS module was the problem and that if I replaced it with a new one it would raise the car. The Mechanic who worked on the car is not at all involved in this thievery and is actually quite competent but, the shop manager who is not a mechanic I suspect said if I bought a OEM EPS module he would guarantee it would solve my Airmatic problem, I said put everything you did and your solution in writing and guarantee that as well and I will pay the $240. But I think this issue may be going to court. I have attached the invoice they gave me (redacted).
Does the EPS Module solve my Airmatic issue? You weigh in.
By the way the Mechanic said that when he attached power directly to the pump it worked. So does that mean I need a new relay. Or is there a control module that is the culprit. I have searched this issue as it is very widely covered however there are contradictory information.
Last edited by majorpeace; 08-05-2014 at 11:22 AM. Reason: updated title
08-05-2014, 11:37 AM
#2
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This is all screwy.
The ABS/BAS module has nothing to do with the airmatic controller module.
explain in detail what your airmatic problem is? The rear dips when, how much, and what diagnostic steps have you tried?
The ABS/BAS module has nothing to do with the airmatic controller module.
explain in detail what your airmatic problem is? The rear dips when, how much, and what diagnostic steps have you tried?
08-05-2014, 11:44 AM
#3
My Rear struts on sitting on the tire. The fronts were fine prior to bringing the car to the indies, it has been a month. The fronts now are also down.
The mechanic (told me in an aside) that he applied 12v power directly to the pump and it worked. However I did not visually see any raise in the car. So the only diagnostic that I can confirm is the second hand Mechanic's statement that the pump works when power is applied directly.
The entire EPS and other issues discussed was BS that the Indie shop and myself were engaged in.
The mechanic (told me in an aside) that he applied 12v power directly to the pump and it worked. However I did not visually see any raise in the car. So the only diagnostic that I can confirm is the second hand Mechanic's statement that the pump works when power is applied directly.
The entire EPS and other issues discussed was BS that the Indie shop and myself were engaged in.
08-05-2014, 01:38 PM
#5
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My Rear struts on sitting on the tire. The fronts were fine prior to bringing the car to the indies, it has been a month. The fronts now are also down.
The mechanic (told me in an aside) that he applied 12v power directly to the pump and it worked. However I did not visually see any raise in the car. So the only diagnostic that I can confirm is the second hand Mechanic's statement that the pump works when power is applied directly.
The entire EPS and other issues discussed was BS that the Indie shop and myself were engaged in.
The mechanic (told me in an aside) that he applied 12v power directly to the pump and it worked. However I did not visually see any raise in the car. So the only diagnostic that I can confirm is the second hand Mechanic's statement that the pump works when power is applied directly.
The entire EPS and other issues discussed was BS that the Indie shop and myself were engaged in.
Airmatic controller reads from 1 rear sensor and 2 front height sensors as well as pressure sensors in the valve block and struts. It then sends the signal to add to reduce air to the valve block. If there is sufficient pressure in the reservoir tank and a strut needs air, it will come from the tank. If the tank pressure is insufficient, the compressor comes on. From the valve block there are 4 lines to each strut.
If the pump runs properly and nothing rises, you have either a bad airmatic controller or a bad valve block. A pump can also run but not generate enough pressure to do much of anything.
Realistically, you need STAR to diagnose. With star, you can run the compressor and see if it has adequate pressure. You can check whether the valve block works. You can test whether there are leaks between the tank and the block and the pump and the shock. If you can control these items, the control module is communicating properly. If not, there will be an error.
The tricky part is if the valve block, compressor, and controller are fine, and the car still drops. Then you get into either line leaks or strut leaks.
In your situation, I would find someone with star and check to see if you have a line leak between the pump and valve block (my guess) or between the tank and the block. This assumes you don't have any major strut leaks.
That invoice looks to address your ABS light not airmatic anything.
08-05-2014, 02:01 PM
#6
Ok, so the Airmatic system works as so:
Airmatic controller reads from 1 rear sensor and 2 front height sensors as well as pressure sensors in the valve block and struts. It then sends the signal to add to reduce air to the valve block. If there is sufficient pressure in the reservoir tank and a strut needs air, it will come from the tank. If the tank pressure is insufficient, the compressor comes on. From the valve block there are 4 lines to each strut.
If the pump runs properly and nothing rises, you have either a bad airmatic controller or a bad valve block. A pump can also run but not generate enough pressure to do much of anything.
Realistically, you need STAR to diagnose. With star, you can run the compressor and see if it has adequate pressure. You can check whether the valve block works. You can test whether there are leaks between the tank and the block and the pump and the shock. If you can control these items, the control module is communicating properly. If not, there will be an error.
The tricky part is if the valve block, compressor, and controller are fine, and the car still drops. Then you get into either line leaks or strut leaks.
In your situation, I would find someone with star and check to see if you have a line leak between the pump and valve block (my guess) or between the tank and the block. This assumes you don't have any major strut leaks.
That invoice looks to address your ABS light not airmatic anything.
Airmatic controller reads from 1 rear sensor and 2 front height sensors as well as pressure sensors in the valve block and struts. It then sends the signal to add to reduce air to the valve block. If there is sufficient pressure in the reservoir tank and a strut needs air, it will come from the tank. If the tank pressure is insufficient, the compressor comes on. From the valve block there are 4 lines to each strut.
If the pump runs properly and nothing rises, you have either a bad airmatic controller or a bad valve block. A pump can also run but not generate enough pressure to do much of anything.
Realistically, you need STAR to diagnose. With star, you can run the compressor and see if it has adequate pressure. You can check whether the valve block works. You can test whether there are leaks between the tank and the block and the pump and the shock. If you can control these items, the control module is communicating properly. If not, there will be an error.
The tricky part is if the valve block, compressor, and controller are fine, and the car still drops. Then you get into either line leaks or strut leaks.
In your situation, I would find someone with star and check to see if you have a line leak between the pump and valve block (my guess) or between the tank and the block. This assumes you don't have any major strut leaks.
That invoice looks to address your ABS light not airmatic anything.
Quadcammer - You sir are a genius and a saint.
That is the response I was looking for and the reason I come to the forums.
I will take the car to a Star repair (possibly dearlership) to rememedy.
