bdzb721

I was driving in a parking lot, maybe 5 or 10mph, and heard a loud pop. Turned onto the street and started down the onramp to the highway and started hearing the tires scraping bad. Ended up having it towed home.

Since both sides are down to the tires, I think there is air leaking somewhere. Where should I start to look for a leak? The pump is working and both front wheels are raised.

tusabes

Spray soapy water on the struts and valve block

lganski

If you heard a POP you most likley had something rupture in the system. Hopefully it was a hose. Check all the lines and also use the soapy water to check connections and strut tops, etc. Is the problem in the front or rear, one side, or the whole system? That will give you a starting point. For example if it is the whole system start at the compressor. The front or rear, start at the valve block, etc.

mercy-me

Welcome to the forum. Check post #8 on Benzworld
for a similar situation to yours.

Start your troubleshooting by reading the "Start Here" sticky at the top of the opening page on this forum as well as the "W220 S Class Encyclopedia" on the opening page of the Benzworld forum. Look for the air matic section.

Much has been written about the Air Matic system so there is a lot of information out there to go through. If you are a DIYer good luck or hopefully you can find a good Mercedes Indy specialist to help.

Bob

vmystikilv

one of the air shocks blew...

bdzb721

Ok, two more questions based on my research and troubleshooting so far. Yes they are stupid questions, please bear with me:

1. How does the airmatic compressor connect to the valve body? Is it supposed to be a tight connection? Mine wiggles alot.

2. Is there only one rear axle level sensor or is there one on each side?

bdzb721

Update: Today the passenger rear is lifting. Driver's side rear is dropped and sitting on the tire.

Soap tested the driver's side rear shock. Result: No air bubbles, shock is now squeaky clean with a fresh scent.

Soap tested the valve block and pump. Result: No air bubbles on the air block but GOLF BALL SIZE air bubbles coming out of the air line which exits the front of the pump.

Now the question is: Can this leak be repaired or do I need to replace the pump?

vmystikilv

Cut, splice, reconnect with rubber coupling, clamp, done.

Hard to believe that a leaking airline hose would cause audible noise though when popping.

Quadcammer

Depends which line you mean. There is an external line on the pump that runs from one side to the other. This unit can be replaced with an updated design.

The nylon air line fittings have o-rings which could be the source of your leak. If so, purchase a new fitting, remove old fitting, install new, and reinstall. Pretty straight forward.

rubber coupling?

*AMG123

Hi guys, I am owner of an E55AMG'05. My car has an airmatic problem. The diagnosis gives these fault codes (5132-left side airmatic sensor/5142-right side airmatic sensor/5152-rear airmatic sensor)
Airmatic kompressor works fine up and down.
The problem is that car's left side is 12mm down then right side or opposite! (right side is 12mm upper then left side)
While we connect the car to diagnosis,we made felt and right at same balance but whenever disconnect from diagnosis and try to up or down the airmatic, the problem occurs again.
I think a wire contact to chasis,also deaits of the fault code says the same.
If somebody had the same problem,then help me where to start?
Thanks. I am sorry about my english,hope you understand well.

bdzb721

The fitting on the nylon line seemed to be hand-tightened so I tightened it with a wrench and re-tested for soap bubbles and still bubbling. Hard to tell which line is leaking because they are right next to each other and the bubbles are big but now I think it's the black line running from one end of the pump to the other. I will purchase the updated design replacement and try to save the pump and will update this thread with the result.

The "pop" noise (could also be described as a "thud") came from the driver's side rear area of the car. It could have been the body dropping onto the wheel due to the leak sprung on the pump. That wheel is farthest from the pump so it makes sense. Right now, the fronts struts are pumped up very high, passenger rear is off the wheel but still quite low, and driver rear is sitting on the tire.

dikka67

*AMG123 Have you physically checked the suspension height sensors? Just had similar problem with my 2001 S320L, the passenger side(UK) sat 40-50mm higher than drivers side.Pressing the suspension raise button failed to help. It turns out that after some over exuberant country road driving the linkage arm between drivers side front upper wishbone & the height sensor had came loose.Infact the little right angled bracket at top of the linkage arm has broken, therefore the system thinks the drivers side is sitting higher than it is and raises the passenger side to suit.
Try checking these first 1 on each front upper wishbone, 1 on rear just above diff.
Hope this helps & good luck

bdzb721

I have removed the pump and found that the rubber o-rings inside the metal connector for the nylon line out to the valve body have disintegrated. Also, the plastic valve/connector thingy where the black rubber pressure line comes into the front of the pump is cracked.

Where can I buy new fittings and connectors for this pump? If I buy a new pump, does it come with new fittings?

Also, how do I disconnect and remove the black rubber hose line?

ify41886

I'm also having a problem with my 2000 s500. First it seemed all the tires were low. Then it was the passenger side only. Now its only the passenger rear and it has dropped down all the way. I found a ripped hole in the hose connected to the compressor filter. I will replace it and pray that was the problem.

bdzb721

Ify41886, did you do the soap test? That hose is for both air intake and release of excess air pressure. Is the hole a result of the filter being clogged? If there is a hole in the hose, the pump will still take in air but debris could have entered the pump and killed it.

My pump is VERY loud now. Before this incident, I never heard the pump before, but now you can hear it a block away. I can't save it so I have to buy a new one.

ify41886

I did the soap test but did not see any bubbles anywhere. I just hope the hose will be the problem. If not then I will have a mechanic check it out. I just don't understand why it is only leaning on the rear passenger side.

pppham

ify41886, I had that same problem except mine is front driver side. I started the car and this side will raise, however, I can hear the pump constantly run. Stop the engine, and the the fender is slowly lowering itself to the tire. Anyway, jack the care, inspected the strut, it's cracked. Well, I posted earlier today to another member. I decided to drop the airmatic and convert to coil spring. Again, don't want to offend any members here (see my post earlier), this will give me a piece of mine. Anyway, the job is not that bad. I replace all four struts, along with lower control arms in the front, all new slotted/drilled with ceramic pads for $1700. Well, took me the whole weekend to do it. But, I really enjoyed the beers along and got the wife hand dirty, haha.

ify41886

It turned out to be a leak in the rear passenger strut. I had an old Arnott strut that had rubber or foam type padding. It was leaking from there. I bought a used one and Put it on. Every thing is smooth now.

bdzb721

Ok, so in the end, after replacing the airmatic pump, it turned out that the rear driver's side shock blew.

I bought a remanufactured shock on ebay for $369 including shipping. It took me about 5 hours to do the job because my kids distracted me while I worked but most people could probably do the job in half that time as it's not too complicated. If I can do it, then anybody can do it.

The car sits much higher than before and I'm glad I replaced the pump even though it probably wasn't absolutely necessary. However, it is now obvious that the passenger side rear shock is lower than the other three and will need replacement at some point.

wallyp

There is only one height sensor for the rear, but each strut can be individually adjusted by using the STAR system, which might well take care of the anomaly.

Quadcammer

while you can test each air valve independently, when setting ride height, you can only do the rear as a set (because of the single ride height sensor).

wallyp

You can adjust the air pressure in each rear strut individually, and the system will maintain the pressure differential. That allows leveling the rear side to side. The single ride height sensor will then hold the over-all rear height.