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S-class 320CDi 2002
I searched and couldn't find my exact problem,
Airmatic warning go to workshop on display,
ride height seems fine and level
the suspension doesn't lower, can leave it stand for 2 weeks and still the same ride height
when I press the higher ride height setting, pump starts and it takes between 20 - 30 seconds to rise. (usually closer to 30 seconds)
In fact all seems fine if the above is correct (I am new to the s class)
My question is .. if all is working fine then why would the warning message come on,
I checked under the bonnet at the relay, it seems it is the original relays, so will replace this (if this was playing up would it cause the warning message ?)
the wiring loom next to the wing has been split open and 2 wires have been cut and another wire added going to the front of the car under the headlamp somewhere, could this be going to the pump, and if so what would be the reason that somebody would do this ? looks like a grey/red and a green wire (I attached a photo), if its not anybody know what these wires do.
I attached a photo.
The warning has been on the car since I bought it a c ouple months ago, although I have not used it that often so not been too concerned, but it is now coming up to its yearly MOT check (I am from UK) and warning lights need to be gone to pass.
The car tracks many, many operational values, and stores notices and warnings at several differing levels. Some of the warnings are displayed only so long as the values are out of acceptable range, and go away after some programmed number of run cycles or elapsed time. These can usually be removed for the drive by pressing the reset button on the instrument panel.
Some warnings, once set, appear to be shown at every start until reset using DAS. These can also usually be removed for the drive by pressing the reset button.
Some warnings (obviously more serious problems) cannot be removed, and require clearing by DAS.
The warning that you are seeing might have been set by a temporary glitch in the Airmatic system, and there may be nothing currently wrong with the system. Or, there may be a current problem that needs attention.
When I was working with the Airmatic system on my 2003 S430, I discovered that the DAS (Diagnostic Assistance System, aka STAR system) can check a large range of Airmatic operations and values. For example, one diagnostic test measured the time required for the pump to increase the system pressure a specified amount. My pump had lost some efficiency due to wear, and was taking longer to achieve the required pressure. The system appeared to work well, but there was still a warning set.
I think that you need to check the trouble codes on the car. You can do this by going to a dealer (expensive here in the USA) and having the codes read. Or, you can find an independent shop who can read and erase the codes (usually less expensive). Or, you can buy a relatively cheap code reader that might be able to erase the codes. There are systems that use a Bluetooth interface to link the car to a smartphone, tablet or computer. No idea of how well these work. Or, you can buy a DAS system from China that will do everything. Cost runs $400 - $600 US dollars for an old laptop and the DAS hardware and software. Complex system, with a steep learning curve, but an invaluable tool.
I kind of guessed the first reply would have come from you, I have seen that you have commented and helped alot of others with airmatic problems ..
pressing the reset button will get rid of the warning for a few seconds, then it will return, so more likely a more deep seated error code as you have suggested.
Can get the codes read for about £45 from an independent Merc dealer, so not such a bad price ..
I guess the best thing to do is get codes read, and a report printed out, get them to clear the codes and then see what happens,
And idea on what somebody has done with the wiring in the pic I posted ?.. and what those 2 cables are likely to go to ?..
Also the merc was a repossession, it was repo'd in April so was probably standing in a lock-up somewhere with a flat battery for 6 months, probably sitting on the ground ?...., I had to buy a new battery as soon as I bought it from the auction as the battery it came with would go flat over night ... is there a know problem where extended flat batteries cause problems that could put an error in the memory with the airmatic ?
The only comment on the wiring is that it appears that someone cut the two original wires (green and red-striped?) and replaced the run to the front with the heavy red and black wires. The cut ends are visible at the edge of the fender. Perhaps the harness was damaged, or there was a faulty connection? Or perhaps whatever is on the end of the harness was replaced (horn, light?)?
So I have put my S class on a diagnostics for the airmatic warning and this it what came up (see photo) saying a problem with the damper, so my new question .....
It the damper a part that can be replaced from the strut, or does the complete strut need to be replaced, or is the damping valve unit a replaceable part
The Airmatic strut consists of a hydraulic damper with electronically controlled dampening valves, and a rubber/fabric rolling diaphragm between the inner and outer tubes of the strut. The air pressure in the strut acts as a spring, with the pressure being electronically controlled.
The damping control wire harness connects to the upper end of the strut. If the control circuit or its connector is faulty, or if the control valves inside the strut are faulty, the suspension computer will set a trouble code, and the dampening will automatically go to full firm. This has nothing to do with the air pressure in the strut, which is controlled separately from the dampening effect.
It might be that the wires discussed earlier should be connected to the strut dampening connector. Check the connector at the top of the strut very carefully, and see if you can trace the harness to see where it goes. It normally runs forward thru the inner fender liner to a connector there. It is not too unusual for the connector to not be correctly inserted.
I'm not sure whether the computer could tell whether the circuit problem is inside the strut, or in the connector at the strut, or in the harness between the strut and computer. I suppose that you could swap the front struts left to right and see if the trouble code stays on the right, making the problem in the harness, or moves to the left with the strut, making it obvious that the strut has failed.
I would be very hesitant to replace the strut without being certain that it is faulty. If the strut must be replaced, we in the USA have the option to use Arnott lifetime rebuilt struts, at about $411 exchange - but they don't ship outside the USA and Canada. No idea what your best option is...
Great thread. Just as an update - Arnott now has a sales & distribution center in the EU (in the Netherlands). This office now offers Arnott's Lifetime Warranty on Arnott products sold to EU customers. All O.E.S. compressors Arnott sells come with a Limited 2-Year warranty. Arnott's EU office can handle both core and warranty returns.
Here is a link to Arnott Europe's W220 product listings including both the new Arnott designed struts and the Arnott remanufactured OE struts. Both are designed and assembled in the USA but available through Arnott Europe.
I just had the yearly MOT done today and one of the advisory items was "boot twisted on offside front suspension leg", I am wondering if this is contributing to the cause of the fault, not 100% sure what it is yet because I haven't had time to look, but will take the wheel off and have a look tomorrow ..
12-16-2014, 12:34 PM
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