mbchamp123

Hey All,

recently my command stopped displaying the map. GPS and navigation are working though correctly as are all the other features. I only see the driving directions when I switch to map and have an active routing going on. The guiding brings me correctly to my destination.

I turned it off and on couple times as well performed a command software reset without any luck.

In addition today I noticed that my AC is not working anymore. I have no idea whether my AC control is being managed by Command or that both issues are independent from each other. Once I get home I will check the AC fuses to rule that out.

Does anyone have a clue or suggestions how to trouble shoot?

Thank you.

PS: I have a 2004 S430 4 matic.

cybertronicify

It sounds like you have a problem with a SAM. Water got into it maybe? Check to see if the drain hole is blocked near the cabin air intake. (passenger side under the hood right next to the windshield.) Either that or something it frying the modules one by one. They are separated, and one going bad should not affect the other one.

tusabes

Here's where to look for standing water

mbchamp123

Hi Jason and all,

non of the relevant fuses are broken as well as no standing water in the cabin air intake. I was able though to figure out the issue with my AC although not fixed and hence not confirmed yet. It seems like my cabin temperature sensor is defect. It always shows 0 deg C. If I go to "Lo" on the AC control I get cold air. I disassembled the overhead console and now trying to get to the temp sensor. If anyone knows what the part number is and/or where to get it please let me know.

As far as my navigation/map issue I am stuck. I don't understand how navigation directions are working and correct but displaying the map doesn't work. I just have a gray screen with the arrow in the center. BTW: what is the "SAM"?

If anyone has further suggestions/ideas please let me know.

Thanks

cybertronicify

A SAM is a Signal Acquisition Module. Which basically collects data and stuff from sensors button presses and others. Then uses that data to do corresponding things. Like when you push the unlock button on the car, it sends a signal to the rear SAM which turns the vacuum system on.

A gray screen with an arrow? You might have a corrupted NAVI CD. Your GPS antenna is working if it can navigate you places. With the COMMAND in radio mode. Press and hold MUTE + 1 + 3 for about 10 seconds, you will see the diagnostic menu. Select "VERSIONS..." then scroll all the way down to "INFOS..." You should now see GPS coordinates and ground speed. Compare that with your phone and see if its accurate.

For the A/C you can do a short diagnostic by pressing and holding the REST button when the car is running. After about 10 seconds you will see some letters two numbers and the data on the right. Use the left climate temperature control and scroll through until you hit number 00 and 01. Those are for the interior temperature. One on the unit and one in the overhead lights. Read post #8

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...nic-choke.html

mbchamp123

Number 0 was showing a reasonable value, number 1 was 0. I have know the overhead console dissembled. The fan and the transistor was totally covered in dust. Also one of the pins of the transistor was broken. That explains the 0 deg C. Instead of trying to fix the wiring of the transistor I would like to get a new one. Unfortunately there is no part number or such. Anyone any idea where to get that transistor?

Thanks for the hint in regards to COMMAND. I indeed had very bad DVD but I rescued it and burned a copy. With the copy that has all the files from the original DVD I am still not able to see the map. I'll check the COMMAND diagnostic as suggested from you Jason.

Thanks

wallyp

Once you are into the overhead panel enough to see the broken wire, fixing it is usually quite easy. You need an electric soldering iron with a small tip and some small rosin-core solder. Get good solder, not cheap imported crap. Clean both ends of the broken wire and apply a small amount of solder on each end. Use tweezers or small needle-nose pliers to hold the ends in contact, melt the solder so the ends are together, and hold without letting the wires move for several seconds to let the solder cool.

Buying the iron and solder should be between $10 and $15. See if you have a friend who can do the repair if you aren't comfortable with it. Fixing the wire ensures that you have the correct part (which is a thermistor, not a transistor).

mbchamp123

Hi Wally and all,

thanks for the tips. I have some soldering experience but I would appreciate if you would recommend a soldering iron that is good. I was looking for one that sells on Amazon around $10 with 25W.

As for the thermistor (sorry for the confusion with a transistor) I did a lot digging in and measuring out the broken one and found this one on eBay being the closest to the OEM part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-10k-Precision-NTC-Thermistor-High-temp-wires-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping-/171731598974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fc003e7e
I ordered it and will see how it works out. I'll update you guys once I have results.

Thanks

lganski

After you replace the thermistor you will have to recalibrate to the new device so when you set the system at 68 it brings the car to 68 and not 73 or some other temp. I had the same problem with mine but was able to repair the leads on the thermistor and not replace it. A 25 watt iron will work fine for that.

mbchamp123

Hi Iganski and all,

what thermistor did you use? I ordered a 10KOhm @ 25 deg C with a B constant of 3960. The leads of my thermistor broke while disassembling it and I don't know for sure if I can use any kind of metal wire to replace the leads. Some temperature sensor work with different materials. I wanted to avoid that and also who knows when this thermistor is going to break.

Could you please describe how to perform the calibration?

Thanks

wallyp

I repaired mine by adding 3/16" of telephone hook-up wire to the broken thermistor lead - small, solid copper the right size. Worked fine. The critical resistance is internal to the device. One of the reasons for repairing the original unit was to avoid calibration...

lganski

That's what I did also. Been running fine ever since.