Car has lost its power
09-07-2015, 09:54 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Car has lost its power
So I was testing out the speed on my renntech S600 today, and I noticed that the car has completely lost its power after a long term issue with misfires. When the gas is pressed all the way down to the kickdown button, the car doesn't downshift to get more power from a lower gear and instead stays on the current gear and revs all the way up. The transmission shifts normally when driving under normal conditions. I only noticed this issue after the ignition voltage transformer was replaced after a 4 month long issue of misfiring. Before the car started misfiring, it would go really fast and there would be an immense amount of power when the gas was pressed down. It has completely lost that feel now. Does anyone have an idea as to what it may be?
09-08-2015, 12:04 AM
#2
See post 13 here
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...l#post10079385
And try the various resets. May need a star DAS reset
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...l#post10079385
And try the various resets. May need a star DAS reset
09-08-2015, 12:08 AM
#3
Short version
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
09-08-2015, 01:29 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Short version
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
I've also heard it could be the boost pressure sensor and/or map sensor, but my mechanic already changed out the map sensor at the time the car got its misfiring issue fixed. I'm not sure about the boost pressure sensor though.
09-13-2015, 02:42 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Does anyone have any clue as to why this car still has very slow acceleration? I got my cats checked out yesterday and they were completely fine. The passenger side resonator was completely destroyed, I'm assuming it was from the misfires, so I replaced my two resonators with straight pipes instead and thought the problem would be solved. Nope, it still has the same issue. Any help? I'm completely confused right now, a freaking toyota camry could beat this car right now and that's not a good feeling to have 
09-13-2015, 02:54 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Trending Topics
09-13-2015, 03:03 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No that doesn't even make sense, the car either fires all 12 cylinders or it doesn't, there is no way he "repaired it wrong." I'm going to have someone look at the transmission, that's my next shot at fixing this issue.
09-13-2015, 05:24 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
09-13-2015, 09:13 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Well you do come on here and insist that the problem is the misfiring when I clearly said it isn't and that all my 12 cylinders work, but then you keep insisting. Just accept the fact and move on, plus I'm not here to argue, I'm here to get help on what to do next. So far our conversation didn't help me at all.....
09-14-2015, 09:17 AM
#14
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2003 S430 4matic, 2014 Audi A4
Well you do come on here and insist that the problem is the misfiring when I clearly said it isn't and that all my 12 cylinders work, but then you keep insisting. Just accept the fact and move on, plus I'm not here to argue, I'm here to get help on what to do next. So far our conversation didn't help me at all.....
09-14-2015, 11:06 AM
#15
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2006 S65 AMG
You might want to run a compression test on the cylinder bank that was misfiring. I have heard that it is possible for all that unburned gasoline to wash the oil off the cylinders and lead to piston ring failure.... IIRC you drove the car like that for a while. I had a mustang that had a fuel injector hang open all the time (problem with add on electronic tuner). I pulled the injector wire to prevent all the fuel dumping into they cylinder. A dead dry cylinder is better than a dead wet cylinder was the thinking....
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
09-14-2015, 07:10 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You might want to run a compression test on the cylinder bank that was misfiring. I have heard that it is possible for all that unburned gasoline to wash the oil off the cylinders and lead to piston ring failure.... IIRC you drove the car like that for a while. I had a mustang that had a fuel injector hang open all the time (problem with add on electronic tuner). I pulled the injector wire to prevent all the fuel dumping into they cylinder. A dead dry cylinder is better than a dead wet cylinder was the thinking....
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
09-15-2015, 05:06 AM
#17
Good luck ! Let us know what the problem turns out to be
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
Last edited by tusabes; 09-15-2015 at 05:09 AM.
09-15-2015, 06:52 PM
#18
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2006 S65 AMG
Good luck ! Let us know what the problem turns out to be
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
09-16-2015, 12:28 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Good luck ! Let us know what the problem turns out to be
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
10-03-2015, 09:51 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I thought I'd update this thread by stating that I took the car to a STAR/DAS diagnoses to find out what the issue is. Turns out that, according to the mechanic, the secondary air injector (CEL error code P0410) is the culprit of the loss of power issue. I'm going to get that replaced soon, hopefully within this week, and I really hope this will fix the loss of power issue. If anyone would like to suggest something else, please feel free to do so. I'll continue to update this thread until the issue is solved.
10-04-2015, 04:43 PM
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
I doubt that a secondary air injection fault will cause your lack of power. You can throw away secondary air injection the car will still perform. Just remember those 12cyl engines are pretty smooth running even when they run on 6 cyls. So don't rule that out. You need star diagnose and check fault counters on all cylinders. The v12 I have repaired have usually ended up in a new coil pack and spark plugs. Good luck
10-04-2015, 05:02 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I doubt that a secondary air injection fault will cause your lack of power. You can throw away secondary air injection the car will still perform. Just remember those 12cyl engines are pretty smooth running even when they run on 6 cyls. So don't rule that out. You need star diagnose and check fault counters on all cylinders. The v12 I have repaired have usually ended up in a new coil pack and spark plugs. Good luck
10-04-2015, 05:17 PM
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Spark plugs? You need in depth diagnosis now. This is a job for a experienced MB technician. It would be very difficult for me to assist you without seeing the car. Try getting hold of a ir thermometer start car from cold and check temp of each exhaust as it comes out of the head. You may need to remove the intake pipes to get down there. Another question is your motor a Bi turbo? ?
10-04-2015, 07:19 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Spark plugs? You need in depth diagnosis now. This is a job for a experienced MB technician. It would be very difficult for me to assist you without seeing the car. Try getting hold of a ir thermometer start car from cold and check temp of each exhaust as it comes out of the head. You may need to remove the intake pipes to get down there. Another question is your motor a Bi turbo? ?
