S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

HELP! S600 coolant issue!!

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Old 01-25-2016, 03:25 PM
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2003 Mercedes S600, 2001 Mercedes CLK55 AMG, 2010 Mercedes GL450
Unhappy HELP! S600 coolant issue!!

Hey guys, I have a few weird problems and have searched and searched and have not found my answer.

I have a 2003 S600 TTV12 and the check coolant light keeps coming on. Visual inspection of the reservoir shows coolant on proper level, my temp gauge on cluster shows normal operating temps but it looks like the cap on the tank is leaking a bit because the black part of the tank always have a very small amount of coolant on it after driving and if I take the lid off you can see coolant in the threads.

Now after I hook my scanner up to it the ECT temp showing on my scanner is 170 degrees F! So I think there is 2 temp sensors one for the gauge and the other for I dont know....

So I pulled the rad cap off the back of the engine once cooled and its dry as a bone and there is only a drop of coolant visible. I am not sure what this is for but is this normal? Is this a failing intercooler pump? bad t-stat?

The whole reason I am trying to figure this out is because the car was purchased with a bad coil, I have since replaced the coil and no more miss fires.

But since that was done the car has no ***** (feels like turbos dont kick), also check engine light is on showing bank 2 sensor 2 02 sensor. So I ordered a cat thinking it is probably a clogged cat because who knows how long it was driven with the misfire and that is probably the reason it has no power and the 02 is showing a code.

Now could the coolant issue be putting the car into limp mode because its showing ECTs at very high temps?

Im getting a little frustrated and would like any help.

Thanks guys

Last edited by C.Battaglia; 01-25-2016 at 03:28 PM.
Old 01-25-2016, 09:24 PM
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2003 Mercedes S600, 2001 Mercedes CLK55 AMG, 2010 Mercedes GL450
Any one?
Old 01-26-2016, 02:02 PM
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Didn't someone already reply to this? If the temp gauge is showing normal, then the cooling system is probably working normally. If there's a water leak, you really have to fix it. Don't take any chances. The usual places are hose joints, or the radiator tanks.

Performance is often down to an intercooler pump fault or air in the system. Sometimes it's a leak in the intake system between the turbo outlets and the inlet manifold. Also check the pressure sensors on top of the engine

Nick

Last edited by Welwynnick; 01-26-2016 at 03:52 PM.
Old 01-26-2016, 07:04 PM
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Hey guys, I have a few weird problems and have searched and searched and have not found my answer.

I have a 2003 S600 TTV12 and the check coolant light keeps coming on. Visual inspection of the reservoir shows coolant on proper level, my temp gauge on cluster shows normal operating temps but it looks like the cap on the tank is leaking a bit because the black part of the tank always have a very small amount of coolant on it after driving and if I take the lid off you can see coolant in the threads.

Could be a coolant level sensor by the sounds of it, but possibly air trapped in the system. It would be a good chance to check the grounds. To test for sure, you can meter the voltage on the circuit. Probably not leaking and if it has coolant in the tank, I doubt the fluid you are seeing out of the cap is of any concern. Some weeping on an older car can be considered normal.


Now after I hook my scanner up to it the ECT temp showing on my scanner is 170 degrees F! So I think there is 2 temp sensors one for the gauge and the other for I dont know....

So I pulled the rad cap off the back of the engine once cooled and its dry as a bone and there is only a drop of coolant visible. I am not sure what this is for but is this normal? Is this a failing intercooler pump? bad t-stat?

That cap is for the intercooler circuit. A completely isolated system from your radiator, thermostat, and water pump. This system is pumped by a small electric pump in the right front wheel well. If it is dry, this will cause high intake air temps. With high intake temps your car will retard timing and this could be a partial reason for it being down on power. Refill with a PROPER VACUUM BLEED. If you can't do it, I highly suggest having a shop do it. There are DIY ways to do it without the proper tools but it can be hit or miss. It's hard to get all of the air pockets out. Being dry IS a problem. Fill it and see what happens. It may leak out. If it does, you need to fix the leak. If the pump is failed, and they do fail somewhat frequently, you need to replace it. I recommend the upgraded Bosch pump but the Johnson CM30 is likely cheaper.

The whole reason I am trying to figure this out is because the car was purchased with a bad coil, I have since replaced the coil and no more miss fires.

But since that was done the car has no ***** (feels like turbos dont kick), also check engine light is on showing bank 2 sensor 2 02 sensor. So I ordered a cat thinking it is probably a clogged cat because who knows how long it was driven with the misfire and that is probably the reason it has no power and the 02 is showing a code.

Why did you buy a cat for a bad o2 sensor code? Replace the o2 sensor. A bad cat will throw a p0420, cataylst below efficiency. This bad sensor could also be playing a part in your poor performance. When these cars detect a misfire they shut off fuel and spark to the offending cylinders and will not damage the cats.

Now could the coolant issue be putting the car into limp mode because its showing ECTs at very high temps?

Im getting a little frustrated and would like any help.

Thanks guys
Old 01-28-2016, 10:26 AM
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2003 Mercedes S600, 2001 Mercedes CLK55 AMG, 2010 Mercedes GL450
Thanks for the info guys! I will be replacing the 02 sensor today and see if that helps. I checked my IATs and they are around 100 degrees. Is that normal? The car also warms up very fast not sure if that is normal but just idling it warms up quickly. Also when the car is cold (Canada cold) and I plug in scanner it shows ECT at like 40 degrees. Is this also normal?
Old 02-06-2016, 03:48 PM
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See below

Last edited by C.Battaglia; 02-06-2016 at 03:51 PM.
Old 02-06-2016, 03:49 PM
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Hey guys so here is an update,

Cat is fine, changed 02 sensor and it got rid of engine light but the car still has an issue. I think my next step will be thermostat but here in Canada only the dealer seems to carry them and I have not had time to go to one! Any ways this is what happened...

I changed the 02 and took it for a drive I stepped on the gas and the car began to take off like its power all came back but then it almost right away died off and check coolant light came on at the same time and now it has no ***** again. Can something in the coolant system draw the cars power back? I have no visable leaks in the coolant system! Things I have noticed are inter-cooler pump is working as I pressed the little valve and coolant sprayed out, my temp gauge on the dash reads normal operating temps but when I plug my scanner in on idle it reads 180-190 degrees F just idling from the ECT and the car does not seem to turn the rad fan on? Here is the live data when the car is at idle.

http://imgur.com/a/ZCEVl
Old 02-08-2016, 10:54 AM
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Anyone? Could the ECT be shot and putting the car into limp mode because of the high temp readings?
Old 02-08-2016, 02:31 PM
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Ok so I dont think it is an ECT problem. I have been scanning for faults when the car is idle and have found none, but I drove the car first this time and then scanned and this is the code I get from my scanner.

Comparison of the pressures between components B28/6 (pressure sensor upstream of throttle valve) B28/7 (pressure sensor downstream of throttle valve) and sensor 'ambient pressure' in control module N3/10 (me-sfi [ME]

I think this is my problem but not sure where to start?
Old 02-24-2016, 03:57 PM
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UPDATE:

Car still runs like ****. Replaced both MAP sensors with non-oem sensors and still have map codes but now......the car missfires cylinder 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 11 and I know the coils are ok as this just happened all of a sudden after changing map sensors.

So I tore the top off of the voltage regulator for the coils and found this:




Is this ruined or is this normal?
Old 02-24-2016, 05:29 PM
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Are you sure its the check coolant light? There is a message like that which actually means there's fault with the fan.

Could you take some more daylight pictures, its not clear what we're seeing there.

Nick
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:57 PM
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The picture is inside of the coilpack regulator that sits on top of the engine. Top side of the black transformer is white looks like corrosion maybe?

Still working on the coolant issue as well but the car will not run right now because of all the misfires.
Old 03-26-2016, 04:01 AM
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C.Battaglia,
Have you made any progress ?


I agree the coolant light is not likely related to any of the main issues.

I drive a 2005 CL65
Old 03-31-2016, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by C.Battaglia
The picture is inside of the coilpack regulator that sits on top of the engine. Top side of the black transformer is white looks like corrosion maybe?

Still working on the coolant issue as well but the car will not run right now because of all the misfires.
If you are talking about the square alu box in between the coil packs, that is the ignition inverter, that provides higher voltage (stepped up from 12 v to about 300 v) for the coil packs.
Old 04-01-2016, 11:19 AM
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For what it is worth Ryan is most likely correct. It is the Coolant level sensor in the plastic reservoir. I Had the exact same issue with mine. My service adviser sent me to the back and told me to buy one and just change it out. Worked like a charm. I bought two just in case. If you need it let me know.
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