DrDoe

I researched the knocking noise that happened when running over a bump and ordered 2 items: lower ball joint, upper ball joint on control arm mid point. I was about taking things apart then I noticed fresh scratches on the strut arms #65. I can see shining exposed metal on both left and right side so I believe this is where the knocking sound originated.
The part number printed on strut arm ball joint is A2203331060 but Google returned nothing.
Questions:
The part number in EPC are 2203305711 and 2203305811 but they don't match the current part number on my RWD car. The part number printed on the arms are 2203331305 and 2203331405. Is there a newer part number for just the ball joint?
The rubber on the strut ball joints look Ok visually. Are there other causes that could be the reason for the arms to rub?
Can I avoid alignment works with just strut arms replacement? If I have to do alignment then I would go ahead and replace all ball joints at the same time.

DrDoe

Pictures

blackopal

#65 is also called lower front control arm and for my 00 S430 the part numbers I bought were listed as A010087 or 88


Often the rubbers will go when a ball joint fails which gives you a good indication. Otherwise you need to get under there and have a good look and see if you can get play in any of your joints. Lots of good threads on this.


Good luck

bigbubbaboy

I am experiencing the same knocking on my 2000 S430. Took it to a shop for diagnosis. Determined that the two lower control arms (Right-2203305811 & Left-2203305711) is your #65 and the ball joints #47 (2113230068) need to be replaced. Have ordered and received Lemfoerder parts from Pelican Parts online. You should get an alignment after the work. I need the torque specs for the control arm bushing and ball joint nuts. A question I have is do you need to pre-tension the bushing on the control arm before tightening bolt.

DrDoe

Thank you for the confirmation. I stare at this setup for a few days now and I'm very sure that I need the strut arms. I think my car ball joint rubbers are still ok because the knocking sounds were just started. Eventually the rubber will go as continued rubbing will tear the rubber apart.
I didn't pay much attention to #47 but I will take another look.
I don't remember the specs and I don't have access to them right now but I think I saw 2 specs for the bushing strut arms. They need to be torqued unloaded and loaded as the bushing will always be twisted if you tighten the bushing when the suspension is at the unloaded state.

DrDoe

My #47 looks clean so I went ahead and ordered the strut arms #65.
Torque spec for #18b is 50 and #18c is 80.
The strut arms installation procedure didn't mention any alignment needs...

DrDoe

Strut arms installation procedure

blackopal

Some of those instructions can be a little difficult to understand. I suspect they've been translated back and forth?


A couple of points I noted when I did mine were;

• Torque the nut, not the bolt
• The instructions I followed had an initial torque setting (quite low) and then tightening to a degree setting - grab the kids plastic protractor to remind you of angles...
• Tighten when the suspension is loaded - this is important.

DrDoe

Thank you for the tips. Going to do them this weekend when the arms get here.

DrDoe

On the Strutmaster setup, I get rodeo ride when the car get up to 75mph. Gone at 70 and 80.
Beside "I can't ride 75" any adjustments to the suspension that can be made to get rid of the phenomenon? I also contacted Strutmaster but no responses yet.

DrDoe

Mechanically challenged, these strut arms replacement isn't as simple as documented. Currently I can't figure out how to torque to spec when the whole thing #18b is turning. Also I haven't applied Loctite.
What's the effect of no Loctite and not torqued to spec?

bigbubbaboy

Hey DrDoe,
Use you allen to hold the ball joint bolt as your photo shows while you use an open end wrench to tighten the nut on. Once the ball joint snugs down it should stop turning and you can finalize the torque to spec. I have been told not to use locktite on ball joints only on the bushing bolt.

DrDoe

bigbubbaboy,
That was it. You saved me! Thank you!

bigbubbaboy

DrDoe,
Where did you get all of the technical information sheets that you posted with specs, etc.
Thanks

DrDoe

I have WISEPC 2015. I can give it to you if you want it.

On the strut arms job, I watched many videos and read many blogs but it still took me about 4hr for the 1st side and 1hr for the 2nd site. The small details in each step wasn't mentioned anywhere and those got me.

I replaced both strut arms but the knocking sounds are still there. Much less but still there. Any other idea? Perhaps from the back?

bigbubbaboy

I am putting everything back together now so I don't know if the knocking sound is gone or not. I took it to a suspension shop for diagnosis so I am doing what they said which was replace the forward control arms AND the mid point ball joint #47. I will let you know if it solved the problem. And yes I would appreciate the WISEPC 2015. Is that something you can email me.
thanks

bigbubbaboy

I currently need the torque specs on Lower ball joint nut #64 and upper ball joint nut #100.

DrDoe

PM me and I will send you a link to download. 36Gb files so it will take a while.

bigbubbaboy

Not familiar with the term PM means? If it is my email then here it is. prairiedogtownusa@gmail.com
thanks

DrDoe

PM for private message within mbworld. I emailed you the link. I would torqued down #64 and #100 to the same spec as #18b which is 50Nm until you get access to the real spec.

DrDoe

Strut arms removal procedure.
Tool needed are ball joint remover and 21mm.
1. Apply PB penetrating.
2. Loosen but don't remove #18b nut.
3. Hammer the ball joint remover to get it in place. Tighten screw to push the ball joint out. The action is quite violent. Remove #18b nut.
4. Remove 3 screws on the bottom of the protective plastic panel with 8mm
5. Remove 6 plastic nuts and 1 bottom screw with 10mm. No need to completely remove the panel.
6. Remove #18c nut with 21mm.
7. Remove #18a bolt with 21mm.
8. Pry off strut arm.

DrDoe

Upper wishbone ball joint torque spec: 20Nm

DrDoe

Radius Rod to Steering Knuckle Torque Spec: 50Nm

DrDoe

Strut arms install procedure.
1. Start with the ball joint end. Insert #18b nut but don't torque.
2. Turn the wheel to get strut arm into a good position. Hammer the arm with wood block or rubber mallet if necessary.
3. Insert #18c nut and #18a bolt.
4. Tighten #18b nut. Use 5mm Allen Wrench to assist.
5. Insert three 8mm screws, six 10mm plastic nuts and one 10mm corner screw to hold protective plastic piece back in place.
9. Place car into a loaded position and torque #18c nut to spec 80Nm, #18b nut to spec 50Nm.