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I have relentlessly scoured the forums for an answer but have yet to find one. The low beam on my 2001 S430 is out and to my surprise it was not the bulb (oh Mercedes...). I replaced the front right SAM module because I had read that it may have been the cause but it was not. So now I'm still stuck without a headlight and hoping I dont get pulled over.. any help appreciated
Thanks for the info. If that is the case, is there any way to test the ballast? Should I replace the whole headlight unit?
If I was to do that I would put these in.. let me know what you think. http://www.specdtuning.com/dec-14-lhp-bw22000-tm.html
Ive never been one to do aftermarket upgrades but these look pretty cool without being too tacky.
I have relentlessly scoured the forums for an answer but have yet to find one. The low beam on my 2001 S430 is out and to my surprise it was not the bulb (oh Mercedes...). I replaced the front right SAM module because I had read that it may have been the cause but it was not. So now I'm still stuck without a headlight and hoping I dont get pulled over.. any help appreciated
It should be noted that I have the standard halogen lights.
have you checked to ensure that the contacts on the bulb and socket are not corroded?
another method would be to swap low beam bulbs left to right headlights to see
if the problem follows the swap.
in any case, have you utilized a volt meter to check for voltage in the socket?
if not, do, as it would be an important indicator whether there is any power there.
did you check the appropriate fuse and have verified that it is intact (don't just
look at it, but perform a continuity check)?
If that is the case, is there any way to test the ballast?
Yours don't have the ballast. You need to see if you get any voltage at the plug with a voltage tester such as this one: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools...9136/203578379
A new headlight unit won't help if there is no juice.
have you checked to ensure that the contacts on the bulb and socket are not corroded?
another method would be to swap low beam bulbs left to right headlights to see
if the problem follows the swap.
in any case, have you utilized a volt meter to check for voltage in the socket?
if not, do, as it would be an important indicator whether there is any power there.
did you check the appropriate fuse and have verified that it is intact (don't just
look at it, but perform a continuity check)?
I originally purchased a new bulb and tried it that's how I came to the conclusion that it wasn't the bulb.
My second guess was the fuse but apparently there isn't a regular fuse but rather an electronic fuse that I don't have access to (someone correct me if I'm wrong on that)
I didn't check for voltage in the socket because I just assumed I wasn't getting any because it wasn't lighting a new bulb. It will be easy enough for me to check though.
Although I guess it was silly of me not to test it with my meter, I assumed I wasn't getting any juice because it didn't light up a newly purchased bulb.
If you get some juice there then those bulb contacts need to be cleaned. If not you will need to go back to your electronic fuses as you don't have the ballads.
If you get some juice there then those bulb contacts need to be cleaned. If not you will need to go back to your electronic fuses as you don't have the ballads.
My issue is my lack of understanding of where these "fuses" are and how to replace or check them. I'm only familiar with standard fused you can pop out. I was unable to find a location for this electronic fuse and I'm not sure if an electronic fuse can break or be replaced.
The electronic fuses in the W220 S Class have no serviceable parts. The "fuses" which are actually transistorized circuits that detect overload condition and switch off automatically, have property of self-resetting when the overload condition is gone.
The SAM was replaced so it's likely that the receiver still has short circuit/open circuit condition. (I assumed the 2nd SAM is good)
Ok you have halogen lights - so you have no ballasts
Again the cheapest way to fix this is , simply to buy an aftermarket hid kit , they plug in to your single working halogen wiring (to control on/off) and they include all new wiring for both new hid lights. This bypasses the fusible links and problems with your current wiring
You want a canbus h7 hid kit , these cost $60-80 on Amazon
Ok you have halogen lights - so you have no ballasts
Again the cheapest way to fix this is , simply to buy an aftermarket hid kit , they plug in to your single working halogen wiring (to control on/off) and they include all new wiring for both new hid lights. This bypasses the fusible links and problems with your current wiring
You want a canbus h7 hid kit , these cost $60-80 on Amazon
Yes you can upgrade to the spec D lights also .
Thanks for the help, My only concern is that I dont know for sure what the problem is. I just want to make sure that I dont go and buy those new headlights for $500 or whatever they cost and then have my low beam still not work. Is there anyway I can properly diagnose the problem you think it is?
If you want to fix the halogen lights, you need to check:
- Power at the bulb contact with the lights turned on - voltage from the contact to a good body/chassis/engine ground should be 12vdc or higher.
- Power at the bulb contact with the lights turned on - voltage from the contact to the ground portion of the bulb socket should be 12vdc or higher.
- Continuity from the ground portion of the bulb socket to a good body/chassis/engine ground should be very close to zero Ohms resistance.
- The bulb socket should be clean and bright, with no visual corrosion.
07-18-2016, 12:53 PM
Front left low beam out... Not bulb!
