'01 S600 suspension leak help..
#1
Member
Thread Starter
'01 S600 suspension leak help..
my 2001 S600 114k miles blew a hydraulic hose just in front of the driver side front wheel..
is there a diagram with part numbers any place..?
going to try and fix it.. if it becomes cost INeffective i'll just part the car out..
i have already written it off in my mind but it is really too nice to just send it to the scrap yard..
thanks gentlemen..
is there a diagram with part numbers any place..?
going to try and fix it.. if it becomes cost INeffective i'll just part the car out..
i have already written it off in my mind but it is really too nice to just send it to the scrap yard..
thanks gentlemen..
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Is not a big deal, don't break it for the want of a hose. There's lots of help with hoses in the thread in my signature.
You could buy a new hose, or get a hydraulics shop to repair the pipe.
Nick
You could buy a new hose, or get a hydraulics shop to repair the pipe.
Nick
#4
Member
Thread Starter
but i don't see any links in your signature line..
good idea about a hydraulics shop..
once the hose is off I'll reassess..
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sorry about that. This is the information you need to look after ABC:
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...gspot.co.uk%2F
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...2003-s600.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...on-thread.html
It sound like you burst one of the outlet pipes on the pump. To remove those, you need to remove a 17mm banjo IIRC. Best to use a swivel head ratchet wrench.
Nick
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...gspot.co.uk%2F
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...2003-s600.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...on-thread.html
It sound like you burst one of the outlet pipes on the pump. To remove those, you need to remove a 17mm banjo IIRC. Best to use a swivel head ratchet wrench.
Nick
#6
Member
Thread Starter
trying to do this myself.. the front of the hose/pipe assembly is off but the rear nut won't cooperate.. its frozen.. the nut now has burrs on the surfaces.. and NO, i did not use an adjustable wrench..
that wrench in the photo is holding the block the pipe is threaded into..
SO, anyone have any thoughts..?
cut the pipe and use a socket..?
sell the rest of the car for parts..?
call a local MBz dealer and sell my house to pay for it..?
please bear in mind, this car also has an issue with cyl 10 and 12.. with some oil appearing in the coolant water header tank..
so it is not only this suspension issue it is an engine issue.. head gasket or crack someplace..?!
that wrench in the photo is holding the block the pipe is threaded into..
SO, anyone have any thoughts..?
cut the pipe and use a socket..?
sell the rest of the car for parts..?
call a local MBz dealer and sell my house to pay for it..?
please bear in mind, this car also has an issue with cyl 10 and 12.. with some oil appearing in the coolant water header tank..
so it is not only this suspension issue it is an engine issue.. head gasket or crack someplace..?!
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you are replacing the hose anyway, just cut it and use a six-point socket. Try hard to avoid crumbs in the system...
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
There's a few options.
You could find an injector socket the size, and maybe saw it up to fit around the pipe.
Maybe file the nut down a size and use a strong tight fitting spanner or crow foot wrench.
Or ... cut the pipe and use a wall drive socket. You MAY be able to cut the pipe with a pipe cutter, instead of a saw.
Nick
You could find an injector socket the size, and maybe saw it up to fit around the pipe.
Maybe file the nut down a size and use a strong tight fitting spanner or crow foot wrench.
Or ... cut the pipe and use a wall drive socket. You MAY be able to cut the pipe with a pipe cutter, instead of a saw.
Nick
#9
Member
Thread Starter
thanks nick and wally..
that is about the same solution i thought would be needed..
the caveat about crumbs is a helpful reminder..
cutting with a saw would produce a lot of debris..
any good sources for a low cost replacement hose/pipe assembly..?
this car DOES have the additional cyl 10 & 12 misfire issue..
which limits my desire to spend much on this issue..
otherwise it has had all those little 2000 - 2003 difficulties dealt with..
that is about the same solution i thought would be needed..
the caveat about crumbs is a helpful reminder..
cutting with a saw would produce a lot of debris..
any good sources for a low cost replacement hose/pipe assembly..?
this car DOES have the additional cyl 10 & 12 misfire issue..
which limits my desire to spend much on this issue..
otherwise it has had all those little 2000 - 2003 difficulties dealt with..
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes!
Cut the hose out and replace it with a repair section comprised of a 3/8" two-wire flexible hydraulic hose terminated in 10mm compression joints, and screw those onto the bared ends of the steel pipe, like the top hose here:
And here's another example. Cut the metal pipe near the flexible hose, or by a straight section. Scrape the paint off the end and clean everything rigorously. Fit the pipe assembly back in the car, and tighten up the compression joints when everything is in final position.
It's a cheap and robust repair. I've done it ten times over the last three years, sometimes just as a precaution.
You can help avoid hoses degrading over time by providing them with thermal insulation like this (firesleeve in this instance, but there are other good alternatives, like what MB already use on the hoses around the bell-housing/catalysts):
1c35bbd5-fa8a-4d94-b7b1-ddef5d84a7cf_zpsfd082764.jpg?t=1416907582
Nick
Cut the hose out and replace it with a repair section comprised of a 3/8" two-wire flexible hydraulic hose terminated in 10mm compression joints, and screw those onto the bared ends of the steel pipe, like the top hose here:
And here's another example. Cut the metal pipe near the flexible hose, or by a straight section. Scrape the paint off the end and clean everything rigorously. Fit the pipe assembly back in the car, and tighten up the compression joints when everything is in final position.
It's a cheap and robust repair. I've done it ten times over the last three years, sometimes just as a precaution.
You can help avoid hoses degrading over time by providing them with thermal insulation like this (firesleeve in this instance, but there are other good alternatives, like what MB already use on the hoses around the bell-housing/catalysts):
1c35bbd5-fa8a-4d94-b7b1-ddef5d84a7cf_zpsfd082764.jpg?t=1416907582
Nick
#11
Member
Thread Starter
thanks nick..
trouble is we got the old hose/pipe assembly off by cutting it with a hacksaw about 3 inches from the frozen nut and used a vice-grip to finally turn the fitting off..
sadly, the steel pipe portion is now cut and the hose portion had twisted or was degraded so it is useless..
can't find the part number that is on the part anyplace YET but from your explanation above i assume a hose can be fabricated locally..? using, of course, the same spec fittings on each end..
i also assume that the overall length is important that is be the same as the OEM part..?
i would be nice to get this car moving so i can get the apparent head gasket (or cracked head or, worse, cracked block) issue dealt with..
i would really be a shame to part it out since it is such a damn fine car when it works..
we, my handy man and i, covered the openings to keep debris out of the system..
trouble is we got the old hose/pipe assembly off by cutting it with a hacksaw about 3 inches from the frozen nut and used a vice-grip to finally turn the fitting off..
sadly, the steel pipe portion is now cut and the hose portion had twisted or was degraded so it is useless..
can't find the part number that is on the part anyplace YET but from your explanation above i assume a hose can be fabricated locally..? using, of course, the same spec fittings on each end..
i also assume that the overall length is important that is be the same as the OEM part..?
i would be nice to get this car moving so i can get the apparent head gasket (or cracked head or, worse, cracked block) issue dealt with..
i would really be a shame to part it out since it is such a damn fine car when it works..
we, my handy man and i, covered the openings to keep debris out of the system..
#13
Member
Thread Starter
thanks for those drawings..
i am sure the hose is number 110 on the center hoses drawing..
here is a picture.. well, three pictures..
the whole hose/steel tube assembly with the cut part, the front showing the rubber and fabric of the failed hose and the rear part..
as near as i can make it out on the hose the part number is: A220 997 (or 987) 2582..
thanks for sharing your experience..
i am sure the hose is number 110 on the center hoses drawing..
here is a picture.. well, three pictures..
the whole hose/steel tube assembly with the cut part, the front showing the rubber and fabric of the failed hose and the rear part..
as near as i can make it out on the hose the part number is: A220 997 (or 987) 2582..
thanks for sharing your experience..
Last edited by bill morrow; 10-11-2016 at 03:13 AM.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
in the FYI category,
phoning around learned that:
a hydraulic hose shop would have difficulty replicating the hose/pipe assembly without using the old pipe and even then it would present a problem..
an online dealer provided the new P/N which is: A220 997 8282
cost: $98 + shipping to me from him..
phoning around learned that:
a hydraulic hose shop would have difficulty replicating the hose/pipe assembly without using the old pipe and even then it would present a problem..
an online dealer provided the new P/N which is: A220 997 8282
cost: $98 + shipping to me from him..
#17
Member
Thread Starter
sorry..
i mis-spoke.. err, mis-typed..
part # A220 997 8282
i got this part # from another seller..
he said it was a replacement number for A220 997 2582..
no pictures of the hose..
at least on the web site..
here is a picture of the order page with all the info..
and the URL link: www.mbonlineparts.com
i hope i ordered the right part and that this helps..
EDIT: googling the part # i find it sure looke like the right part.. https://www.google.com/#q=A2209978282
EDIT2: re. MBonlineparts.com, as of now the web site is down and has been down since oct. 13th and is still not back.. i spoke with these people and they say it'll be back any time now.. candidly, i have my doubts..
furthermore, they shipped the part to the correct street and number but took my billing address as the city, which was wrong.. so it is obvious they are new at doing this online sales business..
i mis-spoke.. err, mis-typed..
part # A220 997 8282
i got this part # from another seller..
he said it was a replacement number for A220 997 2582..
no pictures of the hose..
at least on the web site..
here is a picture of the order page with all the info..
and the URL link: www.mbonlineparts.com
i hope i ordered the right part and that this helps..
EDIT: googling the part # i find it sure looke like the right part.. https://www.google.com/#q=A2209978282
EDIT2: re. MBonlineparts.com, as of now the web site is down and has been down since oct. 13th and is still not back.. i spoke with these people and they say it'll be back any time now.. candidly, i have my doubts..
furthermore, they shipped the part to the correct street and number but took my billing address as the city, which was wrong.. so it is obvious they are new at doing this online sales business..
Last edited by bill morrow; 10-18-2016 at 05:00 PM.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
the pipe/hose assembly arrived today..
it is correct..
will install over the weekend and we'll see how it all works out..
installed the hose/pipe assembly, refilled the oil tank, started car, it lifted up and then another or new or old leak appeared just back of the junction block in part # 130 in the diagram in the post above..
so, now will go back under the car and take another look.. :-(
mbonlineparts.com web site is back..
note: can't find the edit button so can't update my last post, above..
it is correct..
will install over the weekend and we'll see how it all works out..
installed the hose/pipe assembly, refilled the oil tank, started car, it lifted up and then another or new or old leak appeared just back of the junction block in part # 130 in the diagram in the post above..
so, now will go back under the car and take another look.. :-(
mbonlineparts.com web site is back..
note: can't find the edit button so can't update my last post, above..
Last edited by bill morrow; 10-28-2016 at 03:13 AM. Reason: updating this thread..
#19
Member
Thread Starter
final report..
a closer look revealed that the "pipe" end was not turned all the way in allowing oil to escape under pressure..
some arm waving with my maintenance guy who was doing the greasy work and he re-tightened the nut and all is well..\
car runs and raises and so forth..
will need to take it for a longer drive..
so, thanks to the advice this really fine car is now working well and has escaped the parts pile..
even the misfire between 10 and 12 is gone, for how long is anyones guess but MY guess is only a few miles, so that is now on the calendar..
one new issue is the soft close failed along with the lock/unlock ability..
maybe a fuse for a vacuum pump or something..?
will need to open a new thread i suppose..
a closer look revealed that the "pipe" end was not turned all the way in allowing oil to escape under pressure..
some arm waving with my maintenance guy who was doing the greasy work and he re-tightened the nut and all is well..\
car runs and raises and so forth..
will need to take it for a longer drive..
so, thanks to the advice this really fine car is now working well and has escaped the parts pile..
even the misfire between 10 and 12 is gone, for how long is anyones guess but MY guess is only a few miles, so that is now on the calendar..
one new issue is the soft close failed along with the lock/unlock ability..
maybe a fuse for a vacuum pump or something..?
will need to open a new thread i suppose..
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glad you got your ABC sorted out.
Vacuum pump problem is quite common. The vanes pumps are dry ceramics, and they get clogged with dust. You can clean them out if you're careful.
Nick
Vacuum pump problem is quite common. The vanes pumps are dry ceramics, and they get clogged with dust. You can clean them out if you're careful.
Nick
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bill morrow (12-29-2016)
#21
Member
Thread Starter
re. vacuum pump..
why would it pick just as i replaced that pipe to go toes up..? strange.. still no soft close etc as of dec. 23..
car is now living under a cover in the drive way..
the really interesting part is the car no longer sags in the rear..
the ABS seems to work much better.. maybe a weeping in that hose/pipe assembly..?
don't know, there was/is no oil on the old part..
so this is, hopefully, the last post in this thread on this issue..
#22
the pipe/hose assembly arrived today..
it is correct..
will install over the weekend and we'll see how it all works out..
installed the hose/pipe assembly, refilled the oil tank, started car, it lifted up and then another or new or old leak appeared just back of the junction block in part # 130 in the diagram in the post above..
so, now will go back under the car and take another look.. :-(
mbonlineparts.com web site is back..
note: can't find the edit button so can't update my last post, above..
it is correct..
will install over the weekend and we'll see how it all works out..
installed the hose/pipe assembly, refilled the oil tank, started car, it lifted up and then another or new or old leak appeared just back of the junction block in part # 130 in the diagram in the post above..
so, now will go back under the car and take another look.. :-(
mbonlineparts.com web site is back..
note: can't find the edit button so can't update my last post, above..