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S550 starts but won't run

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Old 09-29-2014, 12:21 PM
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bha
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S550 starts but won't run

Stored my S550 for the summer (while my SL is on the road )


I stored my W220 every summer at this place without a problem. This is the first summer I have owned (and stored) a W221.


It is a barn with a whole bunch of cars in it. Concrete floors, dry, etc.


The guy who owns the place went to unlock my car and said "battery is dead". I assume the consumers battery is what runs the keyless go / remote entry. Starting battery was replaced this spring.. consumers battery is approx. 2 years old.


Walked him through removing the key blade from the key, unlocking the door, and getting inside.


He tried to start the car but here's what he said:
"Starts and runs for 3 seconds, then dies. Tried it twice and same thing. The dash goes black and the car shuts off. When I do see things on the dash, the car is complaining about a tire pressure being low"


I assume this has nothing to do with TPMS and one of the tires is just a bit low over the winter.


Any ideas why it wouldn't keep running? I'm at a loss what to tell him to try next. I really don't want to go out there this weekend with no ideas... I'm just gonna do the same thing he did and it probably won't work.


I asked him to try another 3 or 4 times on the off chance all of the fuel lines are dry and not fully pressurized. Told him that once it starts running to hit the gas a bit to see if it revs up (and therefore pumps more fuel through the system pressuring the lines). That's all I can think of at this point.


Would hate to have to go all the way there and have it towed over 100 miles just to find out it something simple.


I do most of my own work and will be taking tools and a jump starter pack (just in case.. can't see why I'd need it unless we kill the battery by cranking too many times).


What else can I try other than just turning the key a few times and trying to keep it running?


I'm at a loss to think of what could be causing the problem. I suppose a mouse could have chewed through a fuel line or something, but in all the years I have stored boats and cars there, I haven't experienced any rodents or anything. Besides, this is summer storage and nothing would want to live in the barn over the summer anyway... most rodents would want to find cover in the winter not summer.


Any ideas/thoughts/help??? Thanks in advance!
Old 09-29-2014, 12:35 PM
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I think you're on the right track, most likely battery related. I'd use the booster to start the car and leave it attached even after the car starts. If it continues running with the booster connected I'd guess you need a new battery. (That TPMS message can be a sign of low voltage.)
Old 09-29-2014, 12:41 PM
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But here's the thing.. the starter battery was very weak in April so I replaced it. Started up perfectly all the time after that. I drove it till June when I stored it. So I know the starter batt is perfect.


The consumers battery was replaced around 1-2 years ago by the previous owner.


Are you saying to attach the booster to the starter batt or the consumers batt?


I wasn't there when he started it, so I wonder if the starter batt is in good shape but was very low in charge since the car was stored (and not started for 4 months). I suspect (maybe) that he cranked the car and it cranked very slowly, then started up, then died.


So maybe the starter battery voltage is so low that it finally got the car started (barely) but didn't get time to charge up by the alternator before the car died?
Old 09-29-2014, 01:21 PM
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I think you'd want the booster on the starting battery. It sounds like the car isn't getting enough voltage to run although it's odd that it has enough cranking voltage. If you're able to get AC power in the barn you might want to pick up a battery tender if that's the problem moving forward.
Old 09-29-2014, 01:29 PM
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There is no AC power in the barn so I can't use a tender. With the summer car that gets stored there all winter, I remove the battery.


But since the S550 is stored there in warm temperatures, and it's only 4 months, I don't bother removing the battery and taking it home to charge it. Maybe I should next year


Will try the booster on the starting battery and see what happens.


I agree that it seems odd that it would have enough juice to start up the engine (alternator not running) then it won't keep running (alternator is now charging up the battery). Unless maybe 2-3 seconds isn't long enough to get any meaningful charge into the battery to keep the car running.


So I'll try the booster and see what happens.
My other theory still stands about there being no fuel in the lines.. maybe it vaporized. It gets really hot in that barn in the summer.. so perhaps everything drained back into the tank and dried out.


I'm gonna hook up the booster battery, start it up, and once it runs for one full second I'll hit the gas and see if I can keep it running at 2000rpm or so. Hopefully that runs the fuel pump and alternator enough to pump/charge things up to keep it running.


Let's see what happens this weekend......... I'll report back.


Any other ideas?
Old 09-29-2014, 04:02 PM
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I wouldn't expect ANY modern car to cope if left for more than 3 weeks without being started or charged !!!


alarms and other stuff just kill modern cars... some don't make 2 weeks
Old 09-29-2014, 04:10 PM
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But that's why I'm confused.. all of the stuff you mention runs off of the consumers battery.


The starting battery is only used to start and run the car.


In my SL, you can start the car on the starting battery, and if the consumers battery is discharged (it says "consumers offline") then a bunch of stuff won't work .. you can't open the folding roof, run the heated seats, etc. But the car will run and drive until the consumers battery charges up.


Thought the S550 would be the same way.


In theory, that consumers battery should have shut down all of the electronics (sleep mode) after a while of the car not being touched. Yes, the battery could have discharged after that, but nothing should be running from it.


Even if that consumers battery was dead the car should start and run as long as the starting battery is good.


That's why I'm confused.. there is enough juice in the starting battery to start the engine, so that's all that should be required. The question of why it doesn't *continue* to run is what's confusing me. That points to a fuel (or some other) problem.
Old 09-29-2014, 06:02 PM
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I don't know which the alarm system runs off... but I would expect it to be off the main "starter" battery.

I would expect the consumer battery to be running the interior toys not the alarm.

Which ever way I would not expect a battery left to its own devices to reliably start the car after 4 months on non use. They weren't expected to ever be operated like this. If you managed on other cars before think yourself very lucky don't expect modern cars to do this. They are way more complex and its not a physical switch leaving effectively it disconnected.

As for current issue charge both batteries fully fill with fresh petrol... (this again should only be expected to remain good as new for one month. Modern fuels especially if its with any form of ethanol mix should never be left for more than 3 months !!!) and see how you go.

If it still plays up put a diagnostics machine on it. I wouldn't be surprised if one of engine management sensors has just died. (not related to leaving the car alone just the quality of components selected by manu)

Last edited by BOTUS; 09-29-2014 at 06:04 PM.
Old 09-29-2014, 06:23 PM
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First guess is of course a weak battery without starting for 4 months albeit a new one. But if the car starts and runs for a few seconds then it might not be the battery.

Next item to look for is fuel delivery. Was the tank very full when you stored it? Even a little empty tank accumulates moisture and fuel destabilizes when stored for several months.

Last item is the ignition system but if the car was fine at the beginning of summer chances of coils and plugs going bad are rather remote.

Get a little fuel out of the tank and look for any unusual odors and viscosity. Anything unusual would require action such as siphoning the old fuel and replenish with fresh gasoline. There are also some products that stabilize fuel as additives. Also make sure the battery is fully charged for strong crank ability.

Good luck!
Old 09-30-2014, 05:11 AM
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The best yet pricey diagnosis should be towing the car to the dealer or indy shop with a DAS STAR machine . It should store some code about your failure if not battery .
Recently, I visited my private MB shop to replace door mirror and talked about my downshift problem . It threw no code but I know it was something wrong with the car either mechanical or electronics .
Finally, DAS found the smoking gun and it was turbo pressure problem .
In a nutshell, that device is godsend and it should locate the problem for good
Keep us updated
BTW, we didn't start the engine of our Fleetwood for 10 months and after replacing the battery we started it with success . It run like champ . The car was almost full tank of gas as well . However the theory about fuel storing more than 3 months is plausible too .Although, I think I have not heard of this before
Old 09-30-2014, 09:25 AM
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I have been storing boat/summer car at this location for up to 8 months and never had a problem starting. I don't even use sta-bil or other stabilizers in the fuel. Had heard it's nice to do but not an absolute must unless you store for a year. I just leave the tank at least half full then fill up when I get the car out of storage.


In this case, the car would have been filled up a week before storage, and it has half a tank of fuel in it. Fuel would be barely 4 months old as of now. So I guess it could cause a problem but it seems surprising to me as I have stored at least twice as long without a problem.


I am leaning towards battery, but unsure as to why it would start up and then not run. You would think if the battery was low on charge it would be the other way around. I'm going to take the booster pack, connect it to the starting battery, and leave it connected until the car keeps running for a minute or so.


I have my own DAS laptop setup and that's a good suggestion that I hadn't thought of! I will take it with me and if I end up totally stuck and have to call a tow truck, I'll try to run a DAS test first. Not sure I can actually do anything based on what DAS tells me (I'll probably have to tow it for anything other than low voltage codes) as I won't have too many tools/parts with me to actually fix anything.


I will also take my bottle of sta-bil fuel stabilizer and add the required amount. I know it's late to do so, but it says it removes moisture from gas and puts some additives back in. I know it won't get all mixed in, but it's worth a shot in case moisture is floating on top of the gas, etc.


Will give it a shot this weekend and report back......
Old 09-30-2014, 11:37 PM
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Have you tried the spare key ?

Are you sure the transponder in the key works ok ie key coding correct/key-battery full?

Of course normally W221 should say :'key not recognized' etc.

I had a similar issue with a different M-B: it just started up then died then I took the spare key and it worked.
Old 10-03-2014, 03:23 PM
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Update

The good news is that the car started up! Got a text from the storage guy saying "it started" with no other details.


The bad news is I don't know what he did


I am pretty sure he was going to follow my instructions and turn the key, then hit the gas when it started running to charge up the alternator AND get some fuel through the lines. I suspect that fixed it.


If he did anything out of the ordinary he would have told me. So I'm sure he didn't hook up a battery booster or anything.


I will be out there storing my SL (and picking up the S550) in less than a month so I'll find out what he did and report back here for future use of other members who run into the same problem.


So must have been either no fuel in the lines or a very weak starting battery.


It's possible the car cranked over very slowly but he wouldn't have known. I know how fast it should crank and what it should sound like ,but maybe the battery was weak and he thought it was completely normal..


Will report back.. THANKS to everyone for your help!
Old 10-05-2014, 05:39 PM
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Glad you got it started. Let us know if you see any codes when you go to pick it up.
Old 01-21-2022, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bha
Stored my S550 for the summer (while my SL is on the road )


I stored my W220 every summer at this place without a problem. This is the first summer I have owned (and stored) a W221.


It is a barn with a whole bunch of cars in it. Concrete floors, dry, etc.


The guy who owns the place went to unlock my car and said "battery is dead". I assume the consumers battery is what runs the keyless go / remote entry. Starting battery was replaced this spring.. consumers battery is approx. 2 years old.


Walked him through removing the key blade from the key, unlocking the door, and getting inside.


He tried to start the car but here's what he said:
"Starts and runs for 3 seconds, then dies. Tried it twice and same thing. The dash goes black and the car shuts off. When I do see things on the dash, the car is complaining about a tire pressure being low"


I assume this has nothing to do with TPMS and one of the tires is just a bit low over the winter.


Any ideas why it wouldn't keep running? I'm at a loss what to tell him to try next. I really don't want to go out there this weekend with no ideas... I'm just gonna do the same thing he did and it probably won't work.


I asked him to try another 3 or 4 times on the off chance all of the fuel lines are dry and not fully pressurized. Told him that once it starts running to hit the gas a bit to see if it revs up (and therefore pumps more fuel through the system pressuring the lines). That's all I can think of at this point.


Would hate to have to go all the way there and have it towed over 100 miles just to find out it something simple.


I do most of my own work and will be taking tools and a jump starter pack (just in case.. can't see why I'd need it unless we kill the battery by cranking too many times).


What else can I try other than just turning the key a few times and trying to keep it running?


I'm at a loss to think of what could be causing the problem. I suppose a mouse could have chewed through a fuel line or something, but in all the years I have stored boats and cars there, I haven't experienced any rodents or anything. Besides, this is summer storage and nothing would want to live in the barn over the summer anyway... most rodents would want to find cover in the winter not summer.


Any ideas/thoughts/help??? Thanks in advance!
I own a 2009 CLS 550 and I think I know your problem. I was going through a breakup and my ex cut my battery sensor. It attaches to the negative battery cable. When I got into my car and Crunk it the car would start but after just a couple minutes it would start to die. I pressed my accelerator and it acted as it was running out of gas or something. Then I noticed my gouges weren't working either. I went to the truck of the car to investigate and found my sensor had been cut off. It cost me 178.00 to fix. I hope this helps you.
Old 01-21-2022, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bha
Stored my S550 for the summer (while my SL is on the road )


I stored my W220 every summer at this place without a problem. This is the first summer I have owned (and stored) a W221.


It is a barn with a whole bunch of cars in it. Concrete floors, dry, etc.


The guy who owns the place went to unlock my car and said "battery is dead". I assume the consumers battery is what runs the keyless go / remote entry. Starting battery was replaced this spring.. consumers battery is approx. 2 years old.


Walked him through removing the key blade from the key, unlocking the door, and getting inside.


He tried to start the car but here's what he said:
"Starts and runs for 3 seconds, then dies. Tried it twice and same thing. The dash goes black and the car shuts off. When I do see things on the dash, the car is complaining about a tire pressure being low"


I assume this has nothing to do with TPMS and one of the tires is just a bit low over the winter.


Any ideas why it wouldn't keep running? I'm at a loss what to tell him to try next. I really don't want to go out there this weekend with no ideas... I'm just gonna do the same thing he did and it probably won't work.


I asked him to try another 3 or 4 times on the off chance all of the fuel lines are dry and not fully pressurized. Told him that once it starts running to hit the gas a bit to see if it revs up (and therefore pumps more fuel through the system pressuring the lines). That's all I can think of at this point.


Would hate to have to go all the way there and have it towed over 100 miles just to find out it something simple.


I do most of my own work and will be taking tools and a jump starter pack (just in case.. can't see why I'd need it unless we kill the battery by cranking too many times).


What else can I try other than just turning the key a few times and trying to keep it running?


I'm at a loss to think of what could be causing the problem. I suppose a mouse could have chewed through a fuel line or something, but in all the years I have stored boats and cars there, I haven't experienced any rodents or anything. Besides, this is summer storage and nothing would want to live in the barn over the summer anyway... most rodents would want to find cover in the winter not summer.


Any ideas/thoughts/help??? Thanks in advance!
I own a 2009 CLS 550 and I think I know your problem. I was going through a breakup and my ex cut my battery sensor. It attaches to the negative battery cable. When I got into my car and Crunk it the car would start but after just a couple minutes it would start to die. I pressed my accelerator and it acted as it was running out of gas or something. Then I noticed my gouges weren't working either. I went to the truck of the car to investigate and found my sensor had been cut off. It cost me 178.00 to fix. I hope this helps you.
Old 01-21-2022, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Maryenichols75
I own a 2009 CLS 550 and I think I know your problem. I was going through a breakup and my ex cut my battery sensor. It attaches to the negative battery cable. When I got into my car and Crunk it the car would start but after just a couple minutes it would start to die. I pressed my accelerator and it acted as it was running out of gas or something. Then I noticed my gouges weren't working either. I went to the truck of the car to investigate and found my sensor had been cut off. It cost me 178.00 to fix. I hope this helps you.
I don't know if you are able to help him. That thread was over 7 year ago and I am pretty sure he got it figured it out by now...
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