Doing my own brakes on 2012 S550
11-08-2015, 02:27 PM
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Doing my own brakes on 2012 S550
Hey guys, I typically do my own brake jobs on my cars, usually I just replace rotors and pads at the same time. Do the Rotors just come off once you remove the calipers? Have plenty of pad left just wondering if this is something that is easy to do. Also, are good aftermarket brake parts available. Thanks.
11-08-2015, 03:00 PM
#2
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 15,903
Received 4,415 Likes
on
3,145 Posts
'71 Pinto
11-09-2015, 09:51 AM
#3
Super Member
Fairly easy job if you know what you are doing,no specific pitfalls. Except that you preferably would need a press to get the cylinders all the way back.
It is do-able using the old pads and 2 screwdrivers on either side of course make sure the cylinders go straight back in..
On my disks right-hand side I had to use a lot of WD40 on the hub-side and force to break the disks loose as they were rusted stuck to the hub..
If you don't care for too much for brake-dust on your wheels get ceramic pads like Akebono or EBC.Get proper brand disks or originals.
I am very content with not having to clean my wheels every other day !
It is do-able using the old pads and 2 screwdrivers on either side of course make sure the cylinders go straight back in..
On my disks right-hand side I had to use a lot of WD40 on the hub-side and force to break the disks loose as they were rusted stuck to the hub..
If you don't care for too much for brake-dust on your wheels get ceramic pads like Akebono or EBC.Get proper brand disks or originals.
I am very content with not having to clean my wheels every other day !
Last edited by marthyh; 11-09-2015 at 09:56 AM.
11-09-2015, 11:25 PM
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 806
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Fairly easy job if you know what you are doing,no specific pitfalls. Except that you preferably would need a press to get the cylinders all the way back.
It is do-able using the old pads and 2 screwdrivers on either side of course make sure the cylinders go straight back in..
On my disks right-hand side I had to use a lot of WD40 on the hub-side and force to break the disks loose as they were rusted stuck to the hub..
If you don't care for too much for brake-dust on your wheels get ceramic pads like Akebono or EBC.Get proper brand disks or originals.
I am very content with not having to clean my wheels every other day !
It is do-able using the old pads and 2 screwdrivers on either side of course make sure the cylinders go straight back in..
On my disks right-hand side I had to use a lot of WD40 on the hub-side and force to break the disks loose as they were rusted stuck to the hub..
If you don't care for too much for brake-dust on your wheels get ceramic pads like Akebono or EBC.Get proper brand disks or originals.
I am very content with not having to clean my wheels every other day !
11-09-2015, 11:28 PM
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 806
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Hey guys, I typically do my own brake jobs on my cars, usually I just replace rotors and pads at the same time. Do the Rotors just come off once you remove the calipers? Have plenty of pad left just wondering if this is something that is easy to do. Also, are good aftermarket brake parts available. Thanks.
a) you live where there is no salt and it comes right off with little trouble
or
b) you live in the northeast rust belt where I live and it is completely rusted/seized to the hub. In this scenario you need alittle "persuasion" (5lb hammer) and knock that puppy off. Just make sure you dont plan on reusing them
FYI usually the latter happens
11-10-2015, 08:12 AM
#6
Hi just done discs and pads all round on my 07. Not hard at all. This is what I can tell you.
On the front calipers release the brake hose clip that's on the knuckle to give you some more slack when the caliper comes off.
On the rears I also cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assembly but this requires the Star Scanner to release the parking brake cables. Then a adjustment and reset wit the scanner.
I also used a rotary wire brush to clean all the rust off the hubs and then smeared never-seez on the contact surface.
I went with ATE standards pad and discs (I'm not interested in massive performance). Only had them on for two days so cannot give you any info no how good they are.
Parts were purchased in Germany, front disc are made in Germany but the rears are made in Italy. Pads made in the Czech Republic. US versions may be made elsewhere.
Also what is needed is some brake paste (as Mercedes calls it), and Loctite 243 (or equiv).
I used the ATE Plastilube or the Bosch Superfit TO100 (or other equiv) to lubricate the metal to metal contact surfaces (not pad friction surface).
Also depending on the brand of pads you go with you also need to coat the back of the pads to stop brake squeal.
My ATE front pads have an adhesive tape on then so no paste was need but the rears needed paste applied.
People will probably disagree with me here but you should re-torque the caliper to knuckle bolts using torque wrench. From memory the rears on mine were 80 ft-lbs and the fronts were 150 ft-lbs - need to check. The bolts need to have loctite put the ends also.
My old discs were not warped but just heavily worn, last time the dealer changed the pads they should have also done discs, MB dealer in Italy done the job before I purchased it.
Sorry no pics of the fronts I forgot to take them.
Cheers.
On the front calipers release the brake hose clip that's on the knuckle to give you some more slack when the caliper comes off.
On the rears I also cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assembly but this requires the Star Scanner to release the parking brake cables. Then a adjustment and reset wit the scanner.
I also used a rotary wire brush to clean all the rust off the hubs and then smeared never-seez on the contact surface.
I went with ATE standards pad and discs (I'm not interested in massive performance). Only had them on for two days so cannot give you any info no how good they are.
Parts were purchased in Germany, front disc are made in Germany but the rears are made in Italy. Pads made in the Czech Republic. US versions may be made elsewhere.
Also what is needed is some brake paste (as Mercedes calls it), and Loctite 243 (or equiv).
I used the ATE Plastilube or the Bosch Superfit TO100 (or other equiv) to lubricate the metal to metal contact surfaces (not pad friction surface).
Also depending on the brand of pads you go with you also need to coat the back of the pads to stop brake squeal.
My ATE front pads have an adhesive tape on then so no paste was need but the rears needed paste applied.
People will probably disagree with me here but you should re-torque the caliper to knuckle bolts using torque wrench. From memory the rears on mine were 80 ft-lbs and the fronts were 150 ft-lbs - need to check. The bolts need to have loctite put the ends also.
My old discs were not warped but just heavily worn, last time the dealer changed the pads they should have also done discs, MB dealer in Italy done the job before I purchased it.
Sorry no pics of the fronts I forgot to take them.
Cheers.
Trending Topics
02-10-2016, 06:06 PM
#8
I have a 2013 S550 AMG Sport plus 1 with the 20" wheels.
Are the pads special on the fronts???
It seems like rockauto keeps saying "Except AMG sport" on a few selections.
I wanted Wagner Thermoquiet 1223.... will these work?
Are the pads special on the fronts???
It seems like rockauto keeps saying "Except AMG sport" on a few selections.
I wanted Wagner Thermoquiet 1223.... will these work?
02-10-2016, 07:51 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
you like I have the amg appearance package which are the same brakes on all s550's except a real amg s63 or s65. get the akebonos and you'll be happy.
