hemmissey

Recently swapped over to the w211 8 pot AMG break calipers front and rear with all the correct parts needed.. now the big problem, i can't get rid of the air in the lines. I've done the research and searched, and still can't find out the problem. Ive manually bleed and pressure bleed the calipers and it gets really hard when i press the breaks.. but as soon as i start the car, press the breaks, the pedal falls to the floor and the "ESP Inoperative see owners manual" pops up.. keep in mind i never replaced or disconnected any abs wiring etc.. I've never had these problems with the stock breaks NOTE: I had these calipers rebuilt with new seals, bolts and powder coated as well..

alx

You know the answer.

At some point to minimize the amount of fluid you will need during your 24 hour non- stop bleeding you can start reusing it given you drain in a clean container. Tap with a rubber mallet the caliper when you bleed to dislodge air bubbles.

Btw, try bleeding the other calipers too. Air might have gone up to the abs unit and distributed to other wheel brake lines.

hemmissey

ive been doing this since Friday.. bought 2 different bleeders, a manual one and the mightyvac one. I've tapped all the calipers during the bleeding process.. might give the "speed bleeders" a try

Tec80

Are you sure you put the front calipers on the correct sides? There's a R & L and the bleeders are in different locations. If the R&L are reversed it will make it impossible to bleed all the air out.

hemmissey

yes sir..

GPrime2

One other thing to consider, I know I've had to do this with several vehicles but I've never run into it with Mercedes, if the fluid runs too dry you have to bleed the ABS pump which can only be done with a dealer level scan tool. The problem is basically that air gets trapped in the ABS pump/module and doesn't come out until the pump is compressed, which doesn't happen when you're bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way. Just a thought.

hemmissey

I've talked to an MB tech and he explained the same thing to me.. he said he has to use the Star Scan to bleed the abs pump while its pressurized thru the reservoir. I just hope this works 😞

alx

Bleeding the abs pump is not required unless you ran the brake fluid reservoir dry and the system gulped air from above. Did you?

hemmissey

unfortunately yes 😒 and all the bleeding I did wrongly... when car is off, after manual bleeding and fill up on reservoir, the brake pedal is stiff as rock. When car is on, when I press brakes half way down it's still stiff and hard, but when I floor the brakes the "ESP inoperative" sign comes on dash and brakes don't work?... 😖

tx170754

I've recently had the dealer change the braking fluid on my CL600, it was a little bit over $100, so it is not that bad, I would take the car to them and let them do the job...

alx

assuming no need to bleed abs tract a brake flush job is one hour @ $143 or thereabout plus tax.

if abs needs to be accessed via das and bled - you are looking at close to $300 for the job.