Oxygen

Gents, not sure where to start to diagnose it.

I know it needs new balljoints because it makes a squeak sound when going over bumps.

Recently it started to ride VERY harsh, like a freight train or a more so like a Panzer tank.

I can feel almost any variation in the road surface, every little crack and bump is felt very harshly through the car. The back seems to be OKAY, it's more so the front of the car.

Few things to note -

-It's lowered via SDS
-Needs balljoints
-Needs an ABC pulsation damper
-Stock wheels, 43/47psi F/R

Raising suspension up dampens some of the vibration, but not all of it.

It never rode like this until about a week ago.

mrbenzes

I would guess (from 560SEL experience) that the pulsation damper is completely shot...so there is no gas pocket at all to absorb the subtle bumps, or pressure spikes, in the system...on the older cars there was a split chamber for the fluid (that will not compresss) and the gas that would compress, to absorb the vibrations and small bumps. The older cars ride turned to stone when the accumulators went out.
I would replace the damper first then if you still have the issue, keep looking...a Rodeo might bi in order no matter what to open up the system.
Also make sure your "ABC Sport" mode is not on all of the time with the console button...
Good luck and keep us posted...
Mike

Oxygen

Great, thank you.

I have ordered the pulsation damper and it should be here tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens.

Reckless

Ouch... I vaguely remember that happening to me but I got the car home and called my MB dealer and they picked it up. I've had so many suspension issues I can't remember what the fix was plus I don't understand what any of the parts mean. It did have something to do with ABC suspension even though I had no warning on the dash according to MB service rep who dumbs everything down to layman terms for me.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Have you connected the car to STAR DAS for check the ABC error codes. If your ABS light is on or these is a fault in the ABC system it will cause the suspension to become very stiff.

Oxygen

Surgery is underway... pulsation damper being replaced right now (well as soon as I get off here and go do it...)

Oxygen

Can't get the ****ing damper off. Going to a shop tomorrow with a lift to get more leverage.

ZorroAMG

Hey brother how the heck are you?! Hope you get it fixed easily.

I'm getting a W220 in January, I am def going to bug you for some thoughts on modding.

Oxygen

I've kept mine completely stock so far!

mrbenzes

Smart man....why mess with 600Plus horsepower...who needs more?

Oxygen

Well.. it was the pulsation damper.

After the change, the car handles like brand new. So firm and responsive. The rough ride is completely gone.

It was very difficult to do it on jack stands so I found myself a lift and had it off in 2 minutes.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED THE LINES GOING TO THE STRUTS!

Let the car sit for about 10 minutes to make sure all pressure is out, lift it and undo the old pulsation damper with a 24mm wrench while holding the valve body with an adjustable wrench.

When you install the new damper, YOU MUST LEAVE the plastic shimmy tube inside, do not discard!

When done, verify fluid level in ABC tank and start the car. Perform the rodeo or about 5 minutes worth of up/down exerciser. Verify there are few to no bubbles on the ABC dipstick and you're good to go!

Here's the culprit:



and the new damper:

mrbenzes

Thats great news...glad it worked out well and fairly easy. how much fluid did you lose in the process?

Mike

mrbenzes

Thats great news...glad it worked out well and fairly easy.

Mike

Oxygen

Hi Mike, since the diaphragm ruptures on the old damper, it essentially becomes a metal bulb that gets filled with the hydraulic fluid. There was probably about 5-10oz of fluid inside of it. The fluid that leaked from the valve was negligible.

You can't pre-fill the new damper with fluid since the diaphragm is tight against the inlet.

Like I said if you let the car sit for about 10 minutes most of the fluid will be returned to the tank and you'll lose minimal amounts.

mrbenzes

Yep, with that diaphragm gone it loses all ability to compress anything....just like the old system
Thanks for the info update.
Mike

SSM AMG

Where did you buy the pulsation damper from and what was the price?

Oxygen

I bought it from the dealership I think it was about $165 or so...

Exotic-metal55

Is there a Pulse Dampner for the rear too? The rear of my car is feeling really rough , unless I wore the struts out from so many hard launches.

mrbenzes

Only one Pulse damper per car.

Mike

w4sim

Im about to do the same with my car but im a little stuck.

Basically the car has gone kind of stiff and theres a humming noise when i drive it. Im replacing the pulsation damper in the hope that this will sort out the problem, but just want to clarify how to actually replace it without causing any damage to the rest of the ABC system.

There is talk of not letting the system ingest air whilst replacing the damper, and loosening a belt and priming the pump in another thread but no idea as to which belt to loosen and which pump to prime and how to do any of it.

https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...-dampener.html

Id appreciate any help from yourself as the job seems easy enough but can also become a major pain if a procedure is missed?

Many thanks.

perfota

Hi, have you change your pulsation damper? what procedure did you used? and what about your front and rear ABC pressure reservoir? where those ok?

My rear suspension feel hard on some bump, it actually sound clunky and i am about to change the rear pressure reservoir. I think my pulsation damper is good, the ride feel ok for the most part aside from the rear clunky noise over some bigger bump. The small bump feel ok it seem. I have no humming noise, therefore does it mean the pulsation damper is good. Sorry for all the question, but i just got the car a week ago and cant be sure how smooth they should ride.
Either way, i will soon find out after i change the rear pressure reservoir.

Thanks.

Ciao

Perfota

w4sim

Yes i did change the pulsation damper, and yes it did stop the humming noise. Also made the ride much smoother aswell.

Its easy to change, you just need two pliers to rotate the pulsation damper off from the end of the pipes its on. One set of pliers on the pipes, and the other set on the actual damper itself. Hold the pipes in place securely, turn the damper with a good bit of force and hey presto, it should loosen itself off.

Once loosen, you should be quick to remove it and get the new one in place as quick as possible. Took us about 15 seconds and we lost about 10-15 drops of fluid in that time, so not a great deal. Make sure the white plastic bit stays in the new damper, do not remove it.

At a later stage i also changed the rear reservoir ball but i dont think that made much of a noticeable difference though. At this minute, i too get a clunk and a creak over bumps from the rear, but thats a subframe bush thats out, need to get that replaced. I suggest you get all the rear bushes checked before replacing anything on the back.

Hope that helps.

w4sim

Oh yeah, do let the system de-pressurize properly by either lifting the front wheels off the floor, or preferably the whole car off the floor, for about 20 minutes before you do any work on it.

perfota

Thanks so much for the reply and the good advice. I will have to find more info about the rear bushing. I definitely have some sort of clunk and noise back there when I hit a bigger bump in the road. I made sure nothing was loose in the trunk, but nothing is out of place or loose. I am thinking rear axle pressure reservoir, now maybe rear bushing or the strut it self loose at the top. But I don't see much complain about loose strut making noise. Seem plausible that the membrane inside the rear pressure reservoirs would be going bad and not pushing the tire back down quick enough thus making that noise. I don't have any humming noise at all, that's why I don't think it is the pressure accumulator and I don't have any vibration at any speed or any noise ( beside the tock tock, or clunk when i hit a bump)

Only time will tell and some research

Ciao

Perfota

w4sim

Do this little test first - Open the trunk, place your hands between the lights and push the car down quickly, like your making the back end squat quickly, to replicate it going over a bump. See if that makes any noises.

If possible, get 2 people to push it up and down several times and see what you come up with.

This is by no means a definitive test for anything, but may give you some idea as to where the noise is coming from. Everytime i do it i can hear the creak from the left side right underneath the strut.

Do this with the car started, and then with it turned off.