S Class-specific ABC Pump Removal Frustrations
#1
S Class-specific ABC Pump Removal Frustrations
Hi all,
I'm undertaking a DIY replacement of my ABC pump on my 02 S600. I've gotten all 4 mounting bolts/nuts removed and have pulled the banjo bolt for the PS side of the pump, and removed the hard line to the ABC side of the pump.
My frustration and question is this: how do I remove the line in the picture below. The pump itself is free, but I can't pull it out of the engine bay because this line is in the way.
This guy is holding my tandem pump hostage.
The DIY posts online all seem to show images where this line is already removed. The one S-class seems to imply that there is a second banjo bolt, but after running my hand along it as far as I can go, I can't seem to find how it's attached.
Has anyone done this job and have any suggestions for me?
Thanks!
I'm undertaking a DIY replacement of my ABC pump on my 02 S600. I've gotten all 4 mounting bolts/nuts removed and have pulled the banjo bolt for the PS side of the pump, and removed the hard line to the ABC side of the pump.
My frustration and question is this: how do I remove the line in the picture below. The pump itself is free, but I can't pull it out of the engine bay because this line is in the way.
This guy is holding my tandem pump hostage.
The DIY posts online all seem to show images where this line is already removed. The one S-class seems to imply that there is a second banjo bolt, but after running my hand along it as far as I can go, I can't seem to find how it's attached.
Has anyone done this job and have any suggestions for me?
Thanks!
#2
Member
That kinda looks like a discharge muffler off the A/C compresor. Follow the line back. If it goes to the A/C compressor, it's a discharge muffler.
#3
Thanks for the response. I just double-checked - the line doesn't go to the AC compressor. It connects to the tandem pump with a banjo bolt, then runs just above the AC compressor before dropping down into an accumulator or pulsation damper (the little black spherical thing).
I can't seem to find what else is holding this line on the car... Anyone have experience removing the pump on an S-class?
I can't seem to find what else is holding this line on the car... Anyone have experience removing the pump on an S-class?
#4
I have personally put in a new ABC pump but it was the S55 engine and not the V12 that you have. I do know that that guy who goes by Oxygen lost his pump a few years ago and he did replace his. Good luck.
Johan
Johan
#5
Yeah, I just ordered a WIS DVD from eBay, it should be here in a few days and I'm hoping that I'll find my answer there.
I've seen Oxygen's writeup but all his pictures are dead, so it's not too much help. From what I can tell, I'll need to disconnect the engine mount and lift the engine to get... another banjo bolt maybe? I'm not sure, but once I sort it out I'll update the thread with the results.
I've seen Oxygen's writeup but all his pictures are dead, so it's not too much help. From what I can tell, I'll need to disconnect the engine mount and lift the engine to get... another banjo bolt maybe? I'm not sure, but once I sort it out I'll update the thread with the results.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Rather than lift the engine, you can get much better access to the ABC pump by lowering the front of the front sub-frame.
1. Support car, remove covers and disconnect 6 ABC pipe brackets.
2. Support the engine and remove engine mount bolts.
3. Loosen but don't remove the 2 rear sub-frame bolts.
4. Remove 2 forward sub-frame bolts and lower the front of the sub-frame.
That gives you great access to everything underneath.
Nick
1. Support car, remove covers and disconnect 6 ABC pipe brackets.
2. Support the engine and remove engine mount bolts.
3. Loosen but don't remove the 2 rear sub-frame bolts.
4. Remove 2 forward sub-frame bolts and lower the front of the sub-frame.
That gives you great access to everything underneath.
Nick
#7
Thanks for the advice - I'll definitely give that a try. A follow-up question: is it necessary to disconnect anything beyond the ABC brackets when lowering the subframe? Steering, struts, axles, etc? Or will they all flex when the subframe is lowered?
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
There are some small screws that hold the plastic panels in place, but they're quite obvious, and otherwise that's it.
There are LOTS of pipes running in and around the engine, but very little is attached to the sub-frame, fortunately. The steering column has a universal joint at the rack, and the hydraulic feed and return hoses to the rack are flexible.
The only things to watch out for are a couple of wires that connect the steering rack and the ABC regulator / sensor, and the PAS return hose that is part connected to the chassis and part to the sub-frame and steering. As long as you don't drop the sub-frame VERY far, they shouldn't be affected. If you keep all the steering and suspension arms connected, it won'[t drop very far anyway. Six inches is safe.
I've done it three times. Only problem I had was disconnecting the steering feed from the pump - it was difficult to get that back in right, so it leaked, and I had to do the whole job again.
Nick
There are LOTS of pipes running in and around the engine, but very little is attached to the sub-frame, fortunately. The steering column has a universal joint at the rack, and the hydraulic feed and return hoses to the rack are flexible.
The only things to watch out for are a couple of wires that connect the steering rack and the ABC regulator / sensor, and the PAS return hose that is part connected to the chassis and part to the sub-frame and steering. As long as you don't drop the sub-frame VERY far, they shouldn't be affected. If you keep all the steering and suspension arms connected, it won'[t drop very far anyway. Six inches is safe.
I've done it three times. Only problem I had was disconnecting the steering feed from the pump - it was difficult to get that back in right, so it leaked, and I had to do the whole job again.
Nick
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!