dutnguye

I have a 2004 CLK 500 and lately it has a lot of problem.
First, all the lights on the cluster turns off, basically the gauges went dark, no gas indicator, mph, etc.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it
I run a diagnostic test on it and the only thing it pops up is P0600.

Can anyone help me with this problem

zuzu_pali

hey im also having the same problem. and the fan runs loud. but the cluster is dark but i am able to drive in limp mode.my car was in a flud . the water level stoped right were the vin # sticker started on driver door .

insame1

both of you sound like you have a wet rear sam unit

Rudeney

The speed of the engine suction fan is controlled by the ECU. If the ECU cannot communicate with the fan, it will run on hog speed the moment the ignition is switched on. If this happens and the engine will not start, then it's likely a problem with the ECU. If the engine runs fine, then it's either a bad fan, bad wiring to the fan, or, you may also have a bad engine temp sensor. As a fail safe, if the ECU detects erroneous engine temp reading, it will switch the fan to high speed.

zuzu_pali

@insame1 and rudeney please check my new post brothers! i finally got the correct codes , instead of searching blind , i need some advise !THANKS !

Rudeney

I also responded over on benzworld...you have some serious CAN bus issues that are going to require a trained technician with experience in MBZ electronics to solve.

zuzu_pali

and i thank you for that sir. but were can i find the control unit N73 (EIS) {EZS and control unit control unit N80

zuzu_pali

were is the rear sam unit and were can i find it ? how can i diagnose it ? also were are all the other computers ? i want to diagnose all of them

Rudeney

The EIS (a.k.a. EZS) is the Electronic Ignition Switch. It's where you insert the key to start the engine. The rear SAM is part of (behind) the fuse panel in the trunk. As I said, this is a very complex problem and is going to require a tech who is well-versed in the car's electronics AND has the right equipment (not just SDS, but the CAN bus diagnostic hardware) to resolve this.

zuzu_pali

Sorry to bother you but you have the most knowledge and I thank you for that. But do you know what is the correct voltage my alternator should be throwing out ? And the voltage my battery should be at? And how do I check . Also can low voltage cause these problems ?

zuzu_pali

i also cant find the throttle sensor in the engine bay compartment. im probably looking right at it but need to confirm . any one have any pictures of it?

Rudeney

There is a voltmeter built into the car - it's in the "hidden" menu in the instrument cluster. Or, just get a cheap one and attach to any 12v source (like the cigar lighter). You should have 12.6v at rest, no less than 11v during starting, and 14v+ at idle.

The throttle sensor is on the throttle itself - rear of the engine, below the MAF sensor.

zuzu_pali

okay thanks rudeney your the man! also you mentioned Engine revving at start/idle would have nothing to do with an ESP, but when car is in par and after 30 seconds as soon as car revs high esp light comes on as well with it ? with a p0120. but any ways im going to get the codes cleared from a mechanic friend he said that maybe all the other codes are old and never been reset. so he had hes going to reset the codes and then what ever comes back we start from their.

its just very weird! so should i worry about the alternator voltage or ? because the alternator is not Bosch but Duracell .
with a p0120 were would you start rudeney ?

zuzu_pali

also you said a bad battery might be the problem but what if its the alternator ? battery is brand new. its just weird as soon as the car revs crazy rudeney the esp comes right with it !

zuzu_pali

the battery is 12.3 when the car is of and 14.1 when its on

insame1

man zuzu you need to do some searching all your questions have been answered before.

zuzu_pali

im sorry, yeah i know i just forget because i keep getting new things and its over whelming . im going to take it to Mercedes specialist and see if the cars worth keeping . but were is the can bus located in my car?

Rudeney

The CAN bus is all over the car - it's like a computer network.

zuzu_pali

do you know the link to a tutorial of how I can remove the throttle body ? What type of tols would I need and also do I need to take out wiring harness or just the maf

CDM Motorsports

removing the throttle body doesnt require any special tools. if you have a simple tool set you can remove it. You do not need to remove the wire harness, there is a connector to the throttle body you would just unplug

CDM Motorsports

i agree with rudney though. you are having a bunch of issues, And you are best to bring it to someone who specializes in auto electric systems. Your car is pretty much a computer network that will require some time to diagnose properly.

As your friend said some of the codes may be old. Most scanners can tell you the last time the codes were cleared

zuzu_pali

Thank you sir I finally took it to specials the said that throttle body needs to be replaced and th start from their . Also after removing the throttle body what reset procedure would I have to do sir ?

He also said all the can bus codes I had are from the eis but he doesn't know if I need a new key or the eis module it's self . I'm going to try to take out cluster and clean contact and also with the eis and see if that helps

zuzu_pali

hey rudeney , when I replace the throttle body do I have to do some sort of reset on the ecu ? Or can I do the transmition reset ? Also what symtoms can a faulty key cause

Rudeney

The "TCU reset" is actually the throttle body re-sync:

1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.

A bad key will either not unlock or not start. It can also cause the engine to shut off while driving if it loses communication with the EIS.

zuzu_pali

Okay great! im going to reset tomorrow. so when turning to position 2 and the cluster goes black , its the cluster not the key? i only have this problem left to solve ! the throttle body solved all my other issues i posted 50 topics for help and it was throttle body all along. but thanks rudeney for all your help. but now i seem to have etheir key, eis , or cluster issue. should i clean all of them with contact cleaner? or were would some one start with that?