gigelpurcel

Hi,
I just purchased a 2015 GLK 350. At a first look, the car is in excellent shape, but it wont start. After replacing the dead battery, dashboard comes on and there are no error messages, but when trying to crank it, there is a sudden drop in power and the dashboard goes off, there is a loud click from the starter, but the starter does not turn the engine. I suspect that the starter is jammed.. bad.

Could you please advise/point me to instructions on how to reach and remove the starter? I would try to remove it from the engine and test it out before replacing it with a new one.
Thanks!

PS: I also need to check the sparkplugs. So, I guess the top plastic cover need be removed.

gigelpurcel

For who cares, I managed to remove the starter. It is located under the engine, towards its back side, and I had to remove 2 plastic splash covers and then a metal plate that also holds the steering hub. Front side of the car lifted on two jacks for better access. No big deal.

I removed the starter (very important - disconnect its power cable from the battery first, to avoid shorting out the battery when working on starter's connections under the car) and tested separately with power from a portable battery jump starter - it works fine.

So my car's problem seems not to be the starter. Next I will check the starter's power cable all the way up to the battery connector. Note - I already checked all fuses and relays; I do not have an ODB2/CAN tool, or access to Mercedes Pro diag tool, yet.

LBC240MIDBlue

A 2015 should still be under warranty why not just MB fix it ?

gigelpurcel

I got mine from an auction, no MB warranty.

bop11

I would think the car still has its original mfg warranty no matter where you bought it. Many people sell privately. It just doesn't have a CPO extended warranty, unless it has over 50K miles.
Your problem sound like a bad alternator not starter. Was the car in a flood?

gigelpurcel

The alternator being bad would not prevent it from starting/cranking, however all I hear when trying to start it, is the click of the starter's solenoid and there is no turning of the engine by the starter. But the starter is good.


Thinking of a bad battery, I tried with a jumper, I also replaced the battery with a new one, but no luck.
It could be the battery/starter cables, which is the next this I am going to check tonight.

Then I probably have no other choice but take it to the dealer as there could be an immobilizer or other safety mechanism that could have blocked the car (note: there is no indication of such situation on the dashboard thus)

And yes, the car was flooded but with fresh water (not as bad as salt water imho). Now it is dried and clean. I am not sure if MB would still cover a car declared total loss by the insurance company.

VentoGT

I would play dumb and try to bring it in for warranty. With a branded title you are probably screwed but it's worth a try. With a flooded car with miles of wiring and notoriously finicky MB electronics, you are in for a ride.

gigelpurcel

Take a look at the attached video. Does it look like the immobiliser is active? I am not familiar with the symptoms of an immobilised car.

What actually happens in that video - I try to crank the engine, all lights come on (contact on), then you can hear the click(s) from the starter's solenoid followed by a drop in power to the dashboard, more like a reset when the power system is overloaded (i.e. starter is on but it cant actually turn).

As I mentioned in previous posts, the starter works fine. I tested it while mechanically disconnected from the engine but still wired to the car. And both its electric motor and solenoid kick in when pushing the start button of the car.

But when the starter is mechanically mounted into its place, it wont turn the engine, more like the engine is locked... or maybe it doesnt have enough power?

I did try to turn the engine manually, with a socket attached to the crankshaft pulley, and it turns, so at least part of it is not locked/blocked.

super7pilot

I feel for you. But I have to say. What the hell were you thinking when buying a total loss, flooded out, electronically complex German motor car? That's like playing Russian Roulette with bullets in all the revolvers chambers.

I do wish you the best of luck.

420tee

Have you thought of having a neighborhood bonfire? You say you bought a flooded car at an auction and never even asked to see it run?
I really wouldn't waste money buying spark plugs. You'll never need them.

waldo16

Working a similiar problem on my 2014 glk 350
There is a "fuse" attached to the positive battery terminal, wire slides into the block,if its tripped the the "L" bracket that goes from wire to inside the block on the + post slides out.
My car was running / starting fine then stopped turning over ???...
i did remove starter from my rebuilt 2012 it had this same fuse in the pre-fuse block connected to the battery, which is an airbag deployed fuse...lets u keep some power if bags blow.

GLKpaul

If it was flooded it could be hydro lock - nothing will allow it to turn over until cylinders are drained. Op mentioned it's "dried out" but is that the interior your speaking of ?

Although this is a couple months old would like an update on what was found...

Warranty is long gone, write offs are registered, mb will know i'm quite sure.. But trying for warranty is free they can only say no..

fabbrisd1

To the OP - you will NOT be able to start your GLK - your electronics have been flooded - and frankly you will need Star to begin the debugging process - on top of that - if a key or Keyless Go butoon was in the ignition during your jump/disconnect/connect procedure - you have freid the security system on top of that.

NYCGLK

The clicking is the same symptom as for a low/dead battery...i.e. when there is not enough power for the starter to engage. I see you say it's new but perhaps something takes the current away or drains it...who knows. Given complexity of electronics, even MB mechanics might not be able to figure out what's wrong. For all you know know there still might be water sitting somewhere in a connector.

For those who say just play dump and bring to the dealer, the first thing the dealer will do is run the VIN.

fabbrisd1

The "clicking" is the same if the immobilizer has been engauged..

sblvro

If it's a brand new 2015 GLK that was flooded by water it most probably fried the ECU. Replacing it will start it, if needed be the key system needs to be replaced. I know that the whole lighting system has a small amount of power to detect broken fuse or lights. If the battery was functional during the flooding, it is a costly fix hence the insurance write off. Forget about the plugs, starter, they are fine. If the battery was disconnected before the plugging then there is hope. If not you're SOL!

GLKpaul

Before jumping to all the long hard to diagnose stuff go back to basics, the KISS rule applies (keep it simple stupid) for things like this, so do this

Pull plugs, will it turn over? If not can you manually turn the engine to see it its moving mechanically, if not its hard parts, if yes move to a full code diagnostic and see what pops up.

The less costly starting approach may yield simple fixes, and theres no saying it wasn't written off for interior damage and suspected mechanical.... Insurance may see this as a payout that never ends and just dumped it..

GLKpaul

I would also highly recommend a full fluid change out (and i mean everything) BEFORE you start it, if there is water in the transmission, block, diff's you will just introduce more issues by actually getting it running if you don't do these thing. All filters need changing including fuel, and fuel tank fully drained, filled and then a water preventative additive put in.

You'll have to spend sime bucks up front to get this to the point of starting it without further damage...

zazlouz

did you got it to start ?.
i have the exact same probleme
please help

zazlouz

hi
did you got your car to start?
i have the same exact problme and would love to know whats the fix?

Mmr1

What is battery voltage?

zazlouz

12.4
I also tried with apower jump with no luck

Mmr1

Did you try charging the old battery while it was in the car, with a charger that has a AGM setting? I think you have two batteries, one in back that keeps electronics settings. I'd still put on a charger now. I wouldn't bother with plugs , as to thinking they are bad, a starter could be, even if it cranks without load, under load is a different story. How bad did it flood? I'd remove the plugs only to see if any water is in a cilinder and to hand crank it with a breaker bar . Most likely the electronics have multiple issues. If you get a computer module get one that's used from a newer glk , or it might need pairing, Ebay or junk yard is cheap. I hope you got it real cheap. How bad did it flood? 12.4v is about 70% charged, so charge it then the second battery will charge. I hope no water is in a cilinder, that will stop it from cranking , you don't want to force it if it's hydro locked, something will break in the process, like piston rings. Remove plugs to check for water and hand crank it, there is a Foaming Fggng oil that you spray a bit into each cilinder .

sblvro

Like I said, don't try even charging the battery as you will just fry the whole system. If it was flooded, it would have shorted all the electrical components. You should go to the dealer and get an estimated price for the fix. I have a lot of experience in cars like these flooded having lived in the tropics. The ECU is the first thing to fry and go from there. It would not be worth anything hence you bought it cheap. The airbags are shot, the head unit, etc. pay the dealer to see what's at fault.

mjhawkins2346

The starting sequence is an elaborate dance with many components. I had to diagnose a far less complicated W210 some years ago and my mechanic (where I finally brought it) said the ignition switch and ECU was not giving a Drive Authorization Command to the system. You are hearing a solenoid closing but is the ECU giving the throttle assembly, fuel system and ignition system the DAC? Probably not. A STAR system diagnosis is the place to start. A lot cheaper than playing with swap-outs. Find a good local mechanic who is Mercedes certified. Pulling plugs to check for water and changing all the fluids is a good precaution too. You might be lucky it didn't try to start. There's another poster who blogged his adventure with a water logged car and the engine that hand gernaded when it tried to run with water in the engine.