asian_xl

I don't work on my cars a lot due to tight parking space, but I still read the encyclopedia here to get as much info to diagnose my S320.

Too keep my story short, my car won't start every 2-3 days, so it is believed to be parasite draw.

What I did: The battery disconnected, open trunk with the lock in fully locked position. The multi-meter initially shows the car is drawing 4.2-4.7 Amps. 30 minutes later it's nearly the same. 40-45 minutes later, it started to rain and the reading bumped to 15amps?

Am I doing it wrong? It seems my CAN bus won't go to sleep. I read the online repair guideline, it seems to be too complicated from what I can understand. Does it mean I can literally say goodbye to my car?

Initial reading


after 30 minutes


After 45 minutes

asian_xl

by the way, hood is popped up (to check the fuses), doors are closed but unlocked, front windows are slightly opened, keys are not with me.

tusabes

I don't know the root cause , but a workaround fix is to buy. Battery brain t3 from Amazon

It's a remote controlled battery disconnect switch that will connect and disconnect the battery with the click of a keyfob remote control , preventing drain

asian_xl

in the picture you would see my battery is now has a kill switch. That would solve 1/2 of the problem, but my dad will not want to drive the car unless the parasite is fixed. I am going out again and re-do the current check again.

550x2

Pull fuses one at a time until the current drops. That will tell you what circuit has the draw on it. Replace the fuse back in place as you eliminate it as the problem circuit.

asian_xl

pulled the small 5 / 7 / 10 / 15 / 20 / 40 fuses under the hood, no luck
going under the back seat will need to open the rear door, any easier way to access the rear seat fuses?

asian_xl

Comand 2.5 Diag Errors, any idea what cause N1112 and N1116
"No data transfer between D2B master and D2B predecessor component possible"
"Failure in D2B ring. Fault in position 1 in D2B ring"

N1116 0x0000 002 P
N1112 0x0000 173 A
B1010 0x0000 001 P

Configuration
☑ Telephone (expand.)
☑ Telematic

DIAG D2B Wakeup
none was checked

DIAG D2B Components
000 1C8 1C8
005 000 190
005 000 000
005 000 000
005 000 000
005 000 000

wallyp

The meter reading in the first photo appears to be 0.47 Amps, which is fine.

Astro14

.47 amps is pretty high parasitic draw, though...that's a dome light on, for reference.

Sounds like something isn't going to "sleep" when it should and I really don't know where to start...

550x2

Sounds like a break in the CAN bud loop. Bad component or a broken fiber.

asian_xl

wait guys... I thought using 10A setting mean 10A x whatever reading on the screen = 4.7amp, I am no electronic person.

0.47amp = 47milliamp? = am I safe here?

I don't see CD changer on the D2B wake up, does it mean my CDC has gone bad?

550x2

It reads actual amps. If it says .47 then it is almost half an amp. The 10 amp rating is the highest current the scale will read 9.99 amps. .47=470 milliamps

asian_xl

Thanks 550x2,

if I get 1.42amp after 45 minutes, it could mean the Can B loop is bad, need to try pulling fuses out. If it is the CDC is bad, instead of replacing the unit, I will need to buy a Optical Fiber loop from dealer to get rid of error N1112?

asian_xl

does this mean the CDC is not recognized?



apparently yes.



EDIT: found the god damn problem...the CDC compartment is filled with water.
I seems the sound is find from the radio, could be there is no amp in my non-Bose S320.

NOW, how to I drain the water out? is there a plug underneath or something?



okay, found the plug...it's ugly, I don't think the CDC will work again

Jack_88

Take it out, take it apart, clean it, dry it out, and see if it does. Alternatively, get one off the internet.

Very important to find out how water got in there. Check all your drainage from the roof and around the trunk. Something is either clogged or torn or both. Unless you find the source of the intrusion, it will keep getting wet.

swatty

Try disconnecting seat modules and retest

doni01

iTrader: (1)

Check the left side Taillight Rubber Seal for leaks. Most likely that's where it's coming from...

asian_xl

^ yup, I replaced it last week and sealed all the possible holes.

If the CDC is dead, will it still draw that 470 milliamp of power? or the CAN B is searching it over and over again?

hvacdude

I figured out the ultimate work around for our cars when they wont go to sleep, and drain the battery, due to CAN bus keeping it awake. My S55 got the battery drain when I added a Dension aux in component. The battery would go flat after a couple of days. A star machine diagnosis said the command system had an issue. If I unplugged the Command CAN circuit wires from buss bar {under the drivers floor} the battery would not drain after a couple of days.
My solution to stop the battery drain was this : I wired in a relay that would kill the signal into the CAN bus. I wired the relay in, under the driver side carpet where the CAN bus is located, to kill the Command circuit connection into the CAN bus.
I used a normally open, double pole, double throw relay, with a 12 volt coil.
I had the contact side of the relay break the 2 CAN bus wires, and wired the coil side of the relay to the aux fuse {in the drivers side fuse box, under the hood}. So, when the car was off; No signal from the command wiring went back into the CAN bus to keep the car awake. When I turn the ignition on, the relay closes and the command system works as normal. Turn the key off, and the relay stops the command from talking to the Central Gate way. Battery drain went away.
A few days after I Knew my fix worked, I decided to tidy up my wiring job under the floor panel. The next day the car started fine but the command had no nav, no GPS, wrong time... all messed up.
I have my cars serviced at a awesome German only shop;right at the end of the street I live on. They hooked up the star; no communication with the Central Gate way.
I forgot to plug in the central gateway molex connector after I cleaned up my wiring job..
Long story short.: If your CAN bus is keeping your car awake and draining your battery; You can unplug the Central Gateway or wire in a relay that kills the power to the central gateway. Its the 2 wire {hot and ground plug on the gateway}. That will stop the Central Gateway from communicating with the systems that keep the car "awake" {talking to the CAN bus} and draining the battery. I made this "fix" 9 months ago, and had no issues, everything works perfect. If you search "battery drain" in this or the S55AMG forum, you'll find the posts I put up as I trouble shooted my way through this issue. Pics and everything.

hvacdude

Water might be from plugged drain under the hood. Id check the SAM under the pass side rear seat for signs of water, if I were you. Seat comes out real easy and your guaranteed to find at least a dollar.

asian_xl

Update this week.

I pulled the #61 Fuse and the multimeter instantly dropped to 70milliamp ~ 150milliamp (bouncing back and forth), but my 11.9v battery still won't last a day. The comand unit fuse is out and I still have no idea what to do next. The car interior is still smelly from the humid and mold is out of control, another problem is my parking stall has rust water leak dripping onto the hood, so winter will be the time I say goodbye to it.

tusabes

If your car smells musty and moldy inside pull up the passenger carpeting front and rear , there are likely gallons of water trapped in the padding

engindin

hvacdude, do you have some pics with your wiring? that's a brilliant idea.

hvacdude

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ery-drain.html