01 ML320 Electrical Issue
#1
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2001 Mercedes ML320
01 ML320 Electrical Issue
Car just lost all electrical...well not all electrical, the stereo still works and the dash lights come on, but no head/tail/hazard lights and car will not start. Not even a click. Cannot put the car in neutral either without the manual override with the key on the shifter.
Don't know if its related, but fuel gauge rarely worked prior to this and had issues with the front windows going down on its own and could not get the windows back up.
Checked all fuses and they are good. Don't know how to check the relays but they are not burned or do not look damaged.
Please help!!!
Don't know if its related, but fuel gauge rarely worked prior to this and had issues with the front windows going down on its own and could not get the windows back up.
Checked all fuses and they are good. Don't know how to check the relays but they are not burned or do not look damaged.
Please help!!!
#2
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It appears that you have lost circuit 15 power which is controlled by relay #12.
Remove relay 12 and put it aside. Then remove relay #21 and insert it where relay 12 was.
Remove relay 12 and put it aside. Then remove relay #21 and insert it where relay 12 was.
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dogobat (08-08-2019)
#6
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Turn the key to pos. #2, step on the brake pedal and have someone see if the brake lights come on.
At the underhood fuse/relay box, check fuses 16 and 22.
Remove both covers at the underhood fuse/relay box, and with the key in pos. #2, using a test light or DVOM, check to see that there is 12 v at the cir. 15 stud.
At the underhood fuse/relay box, check fuses 16 and 22.
Remove both covers at the underhood fuse/relay box, and with the key in pos. #2, using a test light or DVOM, check to see that there is 12 v at the cir. 15 stud.
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dogobat (08-08-2019)
#7
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2001 Mercedes ML320
Maj. Dundee
i have no brake lights. I checked both fuses and they are good. I looked at the cir. 15 stud and there is nothing hooked up to it, should there be? There appears to be power at the stud though.
I am at my whits end! Any further suggestions?
i have no brake lights. I checked both fuses and they are good. I looked at the cir. 15 stud and there is nothing hooked up to it, should there be? There appears to be power at the stud though.
I am at my whits end! Any further suggestions?
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Alice, getting down to the problem is going to be very difficult if you are unable to preform certain tasks.
Do you have a test light or a DVOM?
How did you check the fuses? How did you check for 12v at the cir. 15 stud?
Please purchase a test light at a local automotive store.
Do not put the covers back on the fuse box.
Do you have a test light or a DVOM?
How did you check the fuses? How did you check for 12v at the cir. 15 stud?
Please purchase a test light at a local automotive store.
Do not put the covers back on the fuse box.
#9
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2001 Mercedes ML320
Maj. Dundee,
I checked the fuses for continuity with a VOM. I also checked the cir. 15 stud and there is no power. Could the issue be with the vehicles computer?
I checked the fuses for continuity with a VOM. I also checked the cir. 15 stud and there is no power. Could the issue be with the vehicles computer?
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
As I suspected you lost cir. 15. There are two possibilities. Either there is a problem with the Ignition Switch or there is a problem with the AAM.
We'll do the easiest test first:
a. fashion a test wire with spade terminals attached to both ends. DO NOT USE BARE WIRE FOR TEST.
b. remove relay #12 and turn the key to pos. #2.
c. insert one end of the jumper wire into slot 85. Trim end of one spade terminal so that it fits into slot 85. The spade terminal must make contact with silver contact point as shown in the sample photo below.
d. then with the DVOM check to see if there is 12v.
Post results
We'll do the easiest test first:
a. fashion a test wire with spade terminals attached to both ends. DO NOT USE BARE WIRE FOR TEST.
b. remove relay #12 and turn the key to pos. #2.
c. insert one end of the jumper wire into slot 85. Trim end of one spade terminal so that it fits into slot 85. The spade terminal must make contact with silver contact point as shown in the sample photo below.
d. then with the DVOM check to see if there is 12v.
Post results
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
This part is a little more difficult.
1. remove the covers surrounding the steering column and pry off covers 12. Nothing else has to be removed.
2. locate the ignition switch directly behind the ignition lock cylinder.
3. find the PINK wire and turn the key to pos. #2.
4. depending on your accessibility to the switch, probe the PINK wire and test for 12v. You might have to remove the cover under the instrument panel.
If there is NO 12v then the ignition switch must be replaced.
If there is 12v then the AAM must be replaced.
POST BACK WITH RESULTS.
1. remove the covers surrounding the steering column and pry off covers 12. Nothing else has to be removed.
2. locate the ignition switch directly behind the ignition lock cylinder.
3. find the PINK wire and turn the key to pos. #2.
4. depending on your accessibility to the switch, probe the PINK wire and test for 12v. You might have to remove the cover under the instrument panel.
If there is NO 12v then the ignition switch must be replaced.
If there is 12v then the AAM must be replaced.
POST BACK WITH RESULTS.
The following 2 users liked this post by Maj. Dundee:
alice.gomez73 (09-02-2016),
dogobat (08-08-2019)
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
You just can't get any AAM. There is a specific number that you must go by.
Remove both covers to the fuse/relay box and then the three additional screws and pull the fuse/relay module out of the fuse box.
The AAM will be exposed. Copy down the number 163 545 xx xx and post it here.
You have two choices. Buy used (recommended) which will get the vehicle running, but the door locks will not work. Then you will have to go to the dealer just to have the door locks working again.
The second choice is to have it towed to the dealer and have them do everything. Be prepared for a large bill.
Remove both covers to the fuse/relay box and then the three additional screws and pull the fuse/relay module out of the fuse box.
The AAM will be exposed. Copy down the number 163 545 xx xx and post it here.
You have two choices. Buy used (recommended) which will get the vehicle running, but the door locks will not work. Then you will have to go to the dealer just to have the door locks working again.
The second choice is to have it towed to the dealer and have them do everything. Be prepared for a large bill.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Don't put anything back that you have removed. Just make sure all of the relays are in place.
Also post your full vin#.
Also UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include where you live.
Also post your full vin#.
Also UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include where you live.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 09-03-2016 at 03:31 AM.
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
You have two AAM's that you can work with, 53 32 and 88 32.
You can buy one from ebay by typing in the part number with spaces
163 545 53 32 and 163 545 88 32 separately.
http://www.ebay.com/rpp/car-truck-parts
You must be absolutely sure that the posted item matches your number.
Consider this one as it comes with the fuse box attached and the seller is rated 100%.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-03-Merced...FXyGvv&vxp=mtr
The other alternative is to buy from a junk yard (recommended). If there is something wrong with the part they will always supply you with another one.
When you get to the link, fill in the info that is in the attachment, then a drop down menu will appear and look under Body Cont. Module and choose any one that has your part number. Disregard what vehicle it comes from, only the part number is important.
You can narrow down the searches to a yard close to you so you don't have to wait for a delivery.
Post back when you have obtained one and I will explain how to remove and install the AAM.
You can buy one from ebay by typing in the part number with spaces
163 545 53 32 and 163 545 88 32 separately.
http://www.ebay.com/rpp/car-truck-parts
You must be absolutely sure that the posted item matches your number.
Consider this one as it comes with the fuse box attached and the seller is rated 100%.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-03-Merced...FXyGvv&vxp=mtr
The other alternative is to buy from a junk yard (recommended). If there is something wrong with the part they will always supply you with another one.
When you get to the link, fill in the info that is in the attachment, then a drop down menu will appear and look under Body Cont. Module and choose any one that has your part number. Disregard what vehicle it comes from, only the part number is important.
You can narrow down the searches to a yard close to you so you don't have to wait for a delivery.
Post back when you have obtained one and I will explain how to remove and install the AAM.
Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 09-10-2016 at 05:07 AM.
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art_arev (09-05-2016)
#19
Car just lost all electrical...well not all electrical, the stereo still works and the dash lights come on, but no head/tail/hazard lights and car will not start. Not even a click. Cannot put the car in neutral either without the manual override with the key on the shifter.
Don't know if its related, but fuel gauge rarely worked prior to this and had issues with the front windows going down on its own and could not get the windows back up.
Checked all fuses and they are good. Don't know how to check the relays but they are not burned or do not look damaged.
Please help!!!
Don't know if its related, but fuel gauge rarely worked prior to this and had issues with the front windows going down on its own and could not get the windows back up.
Checked all fuses and they are good. Don't know how to check the relays but they are not burned or do not look damaged.
Please help!!!