myMBisFIN

Hey everyone! My name is Patrick and I'm a new member here. I am reaching out here because I have a major dillema with my Mercedes.

I was driving to work when the oil warning light came on. The car has a leak so I knew it had to be getting low on oil so I stopped at the auto parts store on my way to work and bought 2 5 qt bottles and used about all of it. My car takes 9 qts and considering the major oil leak, I figured I'd throw in a little extra. I loaded her up with some fresh new oil and now I can't get it to start.

I had to tow her out of the store parking lot it's the strangest thing. I didn't do any damage caused by low oil levels because the car ran perfectly up until I shut it down at the auto store. I've heard a motor sieze up before and I'm tellin you there was not a single strange noise from the hood since I bought it.

I also fear that I have a head gasket leak because when I replaced my spark plugs, the cylinders were pooled with oil I couldn't even see the spark plug.

Is there oil where the spark plugs sit preventing any spark from happening at all? Did I fill her up too full and flood the motor w/ oil? Did the oil sensor trigger something that cut the motor to prevent any damage from happening? What do I do? There is a check engine light on but I haven't been able to get a code reader to sync up with it properly so I can't diagnose the light.

She just wont start.

ncmudbug

The first question is do you have any codes!

It sounds like you're saying the engine seized up. Why do you think that? Does the starter turn? Did you try to turn it by hand?

Given that you have what must be a serious leak, that seems to be a reasonable assumption unless there is something else that could be wrong.

Oil in the spark plug wells might conduct electricity enough so that the spark plug wouldn't work. That oil would not come from a head gasket leak, but rather a valve cover gasket leak.

I would first take the plugs out and try to turn the motor. If you can do that, then fix the valve cover gasket and whatever other leaks you have. Clean off the plugs by soaking them in solvent to get the oil off and reinstall them. Fix the problem from any codes, then fill the engine to the correct level with the correct oil and try to start it.

Good luck!

myMBisFIN

I can't get any codes cus it wont sync up with the reader. The engine did not seize up. what do you mean turn it by hand? the motor cranks by hand so nothing is seized. How would I get the oil out of where the spark plugs sit? I can clean them but when I reinstall them I'd just be putting them back into the oil. I can probly get a shot vac or something but idk. Thanks for the suggestions so far you may be right the spark plugs may not be working cus of the oil.

ncmudbug

I don't know what's happening that you can't get your code reader to work. I would think that if you can get to the ignition position of the switch, your reader should pull any codes but I'm saying that only because I can do that.

Turning the motor by hand just means putting a wrench on the crank bolt and turning. I didn't know if the starter turned the motor. Since it does, that's good.

You can buy a syringe (usually a bulb type) at a parts store. You should be able to suck the oil out with that. When you pull out the plug, any oil in that well will go into the cylinder. That oil may not be clean so try to get all the oil out that you can. If the oil goes into the cylinder, you should spin the engine (with the starter and all the plugs out) a bit to get it to leak back into the crank case. If you have too much oil in the cylinder, you put the plugs back in and you turn the motor, you could damage the engine because the piston will try to compress the oil. This seems unlikely but why take the chance. While you're at it, clean out the spark plug well carefully so dirt, lint, etc, doesn't go into the cylinder.

Afer you do all that, clean the plugs with solvent and dry them before reinstalling them (put antiseize on the plug threads before you install them). Then see if the motor works. If it does, get a new cam cover gasket and install that or you'll have the same problem again.

If it doesn't, you'll have to see what the problem is. One thing you can do is see if you're getting spark to all your plugs. If you only get spark to some of your plugs, it sounds like a coil pack for the the non-sparking plugs needs to be changed. You can check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve toward the rear of the engine to make sure you're getting fuel. I don't remember what it's supposed to be (50 psi comes to mind) but you should be able to find it somewhere on this forum.

I'm not sure how much further I can go from here. I don't really have a lot of experience with this sort of thing. Don't forget to post your results. Somebody here should know more than I.

Good luck!

MJ50

moved to W203 forum...

myMBisFIN

Thanks for all the juicy insight my friend! I can't wait to get to the store and start workin on my baby

RedGray

You're asking about a number of different things.
So, first things first.

1) How long have you had that car?


>There is a check engine light on but I haven't been able to get a code reader to sync up with it properly so I can't diagnose the light.

2a) What OBD-II scanner do you have?
2b) Did it worked before on your C230?
2c) Does it work on any other car?


>Did the oil sensor trigger something that cut the motor to prevent any damage from happening?
I don't know. That could be the case.


>Is there oil where the spark plugs sit preventing any spark from happening at all?
Nope. As long as the oil doesn't go up to the top electrode of the plug, the oil just do other non good things - but the plugs will still fire.



>I also fear that I have a head gasket leak because when I replaced my spark plugs, the cylinders were pooled with oil I couldn't even see the spark plug.
I'm confused.
After you put in the extra oil and the car would not start, did you then try to replace the spark plugs?



>I also fear that I have a head gasket leak because when I replaced my spark plugs, the cylinders were pooled with oil I couldn't even see the spark plug.
Nope - Oil on top of the head, has nothing to do with the head gasket. The oil in the spark plug holes is because of the seals on the spark plug openings on the bottom of the plastic head cover are leaking. And/or, the cover was put back on incorrectly.

Top


Bottom




Fwiw, the head gasket is on the bottom of the head.
The head gasket goes between the bottom head and the top of the engine block.
Bad head gaskets often (but not always) result in antifreeze getting into the cylinders and exhaust gasses getting into the antifreeze. Plus, often (but not always), there is a leak (gasket no longer sealing) between two adjacent cylinders.

slammer111

How much oil did the car tell you to add, and how much did you actually pour in?

capt_paul

The M271 engine oil capacity is definately not 9 qts. You have overserviced the oil, which may be causing your problems.

myMBisFIN

So if this is the scenario... What is my first step in the solution?

You guys are all so freakin kick @$$ by the way! So many helpful people who share my passion for Mercedes! Thanks for all the responses and sorry if I don't get to everybody

slammer111

The M271 should have 5.5L. The solution is to lower the level to the correct amount. Not sure about the other engines, but this engine does not like excessive oil at all. It even says so on the cap specifically not to overfill.

A small suction pump should be available at that same auto parts store where you got stuck. Should look like a jar with a hand pump on top and a hose sticking out. Suck out a few litres and check the oil level again.

For the 2003-2004 cars (I assume this also works for 2005 but cannot be sure), the exact oil level can be checked without switching on the engine. Make sure your display is set to the default odometer screen. Turn the key to position 1 and push the reset button 3 times (you should hear a beep). Hit the up arrow (steering wheel button) once, then turn the key to position 2. If you do this correctly, there will be a display showing the oil level to the nearest 0.1L. Bring that down below 5.5L (the car will run fine down to about 4L so anywhere between 4.0L and 5.5L will be fine) and you'll be good to go.

VVF

Yes, this works for facelift cars (2005+). This is also where you enable the infamous "dyno mode"

LILBENZ230

9qts.. plus some.. in the M271. Dear lord, no wonder it won't run. It's probably got double the amount since you said you threw in some extra. 5.5 is the correct amount as stated above.

You'll need to use dyno mode to see the actual oil reading, IIRC. The normal screen sequence just says something like "OIL LEVEL OK" - generic.

myMBisFIN

Is the engine for my 05 c230k sport sedan an m271? I thought it was w203.

RWDlifer

Dear Lord in heaven....
Get rid of that car immediately and buy a Toyota

RedGray

I agree that a Camry, Fusion, or Accord is a FAR FAR better used car for the general driver.
Imho, a 2002-2005 C230K is a lot like the POS GM 80's, 90's, 2000's cars - a car to get rid of before 65K to 90K miles. However, like with the POS GM cars, with the proper fixes, upgrades, and care, imho, a typical 2002-2005 C230K can go well past 150K miles. But, imho, it likely only makes sense if the person does the work themselves.


Welcome to the interWeb car forums! Where, the so called "experts" often use terms that are not standard, and often don't even mean what they think they mean.


For a 2005 C230K:
Body/Chassis Platform: W203 - There are many cars that are built on that "base" platform/Chassis. But, "platform" isn't actually very accurate. It's like a mammal "species" (no hard and set criteria). Platform means different things, and is used differently by different manufactures. Also, even within a year, a manufacture may treat different base platforms differently.


Engine: 1.8L M271 - an inline 4-cylinder aluminum block with coated cylinders and an aluminum head.


Super Charger: Eaton M65 - It's not the M45 super charger that was on the previous year with the "M111 engine" (cast iron block and an aluminum head).


For 2005: The C230K got a "refreshed/updated" W203 platform interior and body. So, things like the dash, radio, etc are different.


For 2006+: For America, the C230 finally dumped the very problematic 4-cylinders and went to a 6-cylinder. Note, this was mainly do to the American public's desire (and their customer's) for a V6 verses a 4 cylinder. The 6-cylinder is mostly more reliable. However, it does have a cheaply and poorly designed valve on the intake manifold that has a tendency to break in under 100K miles. Imho, get it replaced at a non MB mechanic, and for under ~$800, the car is good again.


I hope the above helps.


Joe
Electronics, control, mechanical systems for the automotive market? Yea, I've done that a few times. So, my view of a vehicle/platform is often very different than the leg-humpers.

C230 Sport Coup

2006 + also has a cheaply made balance shaft, a $5K + repair.
Eaton M65 was used on 90's SLK motors with same M111 (2.3L iron block)
engine. Never on a C Class.
There's a guy (Subby) on benzworld R170 (SLK) forum who tweaked his
M65 equipped M111 with pullies on the supercharger and the crank, wow does that thing scream.

As for myMBisFIN, sorry dude but your lack of knowledge is dangerously appalling.
No matter how big an oil leak you have, 10 quarts all at once will kill the car.
Even if the car held a total of 9 quarts (really? 9 quarts, anyone chime in? M111 holds 7.5)
putting 10 into a running car, means 1 quart over + how ever much oil was in there before.
All that oil has to go somewhere, and is likely the reason you have a leak in the 1st place.
Where's it leaking from? If it's the crankshaft seal, get it fixed.

Drain some off, replace the valve cover gasket, and there's some orings for the holes where the spark plug goes. I'd say it's an easy job, something you could handle, but....
maybe not.

Well, auto repair is a learning experience. You gotta start somewhere.