SL65MONSTA

I am changing the rear park brake shoes and want to be able to remove the centre axle nut that holds the disc on to the shaft, I was told it is a 30mm , but someone else says its 32mm and all the way up to 36mm. Does anyone know what it is , and quickly give me a reply to get this dam bolt off. Oh and any other tips on removal would be nice have a good day

Rudeney

Just curious - why do you want to remove the flange?

latemodel21

If you are trying to remove the rotor (disc) , you DON'T need to remove the axle nut. You only need to remove the wheel, caliper, and the smallish T-30 machine screw.

SL65MONSTA

Hi Bud I am removing the wheel because the parking brake shoe has fell apart inside due to aftermarket wheels and not short enough lug nuts.

SL65MONSTA

are 100% certain about this , it looks like the centre axle nut needs to come off as part of removal and I have seen other threads on here also showing videos on youtube of that particular nut being removed to access the insides of the disc. Would be great if I didnt have too, I just bought a dam socket too off fleebay

latemodel21

Yes, I happen to have the rear disc off of my SL55 right now so I took a picture for you

SL65MONSTA

Greatly appreciated , I will get into taking it off sooner then anticipated

** Nice paintwork on those calipers

Rudeney

Sometimes rust can really "weld" the rotor to the flange. Tapping with a hammer and wood block insulator will get it loose. If it's "loose" but still won't come off, like it's held by a spring, then you may need to loosen the adjuster on the park brake shows (just like in the "good old days" of dealing with drum brakes).

ItalianJoe1

Rust can be bad, tapping it may not be enough. I've had to put dents into the rotor with a 4lb sledge hammer to get some rotors off.

But you def do NOT have to remove the axle nut to remove the rotor.

SL65MONSTA

there is some penetrating lubricants we have here over in oz , the right one can make it a breeze to come off. Mine doesn't have much milage on it, so I'm hoping there is minimal rust inside

Rudeney

Yes - some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil is good. Also, when tapping, don't just tap "outward" on the rotor - tap around the outer circumference of the "hat" of the rotor, where it sits on the flange.

SL65MONSTA

Just had a proper look at this caliper bolt location, how the hell does one get a impact wrench into there without disconnecting everything on the whole wheel hub, it appears the the control arms, wishbones, abc, everything else too ! needs to be disconnected to get some space in there to get access, or is this just a SL65 issue ?

compaddict

iTrader: (1)

I use a swivel impact and it works great. Also a slide hammer to pop off the rotors. Just takes a second and makes me feel better not using a mini sledge!

Rudeney

You are right, I don't think you could get an impact wrench in there, on any car I've worked on. I use an end-wrench and a hammer to tap on the wrench handle. If the wrench is not long enough to get it into a position for tapping, I put a pipe on it to extend it's length, which also adds mover leverage to the bolt to help, too.

ItalianJoe1

Don't impact your brake calipers... just use a proper sized wrench or socket and bar. It isn't that bad.

SL65MONSTA

you cant get a bar in there or a pipe over the wrench for leverage, it is space constraint. Maybe if on a hoist its possible, or jacked up off the floor so high to access it from below..... hmmmm..

WANTED!!

It's possible. I just did a set yesterday on jackstands for a friend of mine. That said, it isn't fun.

I use a fairly long craftsmant breaker bar with socket to initially break it free. A pipe over ea ratchet can be done as well. The driver's side is easier than the passenger side just because of the direction needed to apply force.

latemodel21

I just did this as well and it would have been no fun at all if I did not have a lift. Keep in mind these bolts need to be torqued to 180Nm (about 133 foot pounds).

good luck,
Chris

SL65MONSTA

Done! here are some pics of whats happened

WANTED!!

Glad you got it done.

SL65MONSTA

I jacked up the car from below about half a metre to get a better grab and used brute force. Did not use a pipe over for leverage, but I did use WD-40 spray 5 minutes prior to removing, they are hard bolts and one of the bolt heads was threaded as I used a normal socket instead of a E-Torx. To fix this I tighten the bolt which bent the head pattern back a bit into place as it was forced to and unbolted it (very lucky!) or else I would of been going at it with a oxy torch or grinder (not something anyone wants to use on a car!) ordered springs from dealership in Sydney, should arrive tomorrow morning

WANTED!!

YIKES!!!!!! Yeah, you definitely got lucky there. If you haven't done so yet, you'll want to order yourself a new set of caliper bolts to play it safe for the next time you'll have to remove that caliper.

SL65MONSTA

thats exactly what I had in mind , dam I forgot to order it was so excited that the issue was just $5 dollar springs, thanks for reminding me will order tomorrow might just need the one, the others in tact. I hope they have it in stock and don't have to order it in too, I probably have a bolt to match in my shed but it would be a little shorter or longer , not taking that risk on this car !

ItalianJoe1

Those caliper bolts are normally considered one time use by MB so the dealer should have plenty in stock.

SL65MONSTA

this guy at mercedes is hopeless cant find a part number for them or a diagram.