SL-Class (R129) 1990-2002: SL 280, SL 300, SL 320, SL 500, SL 600, SL 60 AMG

SL/R129: Replacing Rear Suspension Accumulators

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Old 03-17-2014, 08:12 AM
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'99 CLK430 '02 SL600 Silver Arrow '14 GL350 Bluetec '80 Rolls-Royce Corniche Coupe
Replacing Rear Suspension Accumulators

Does anyone have experience replacing the rear suspension accumulators (a.k.a. gas springs) on the SL600? Wondering if this is a DIY job or if there are some advanced bleeding techniques for the system once replaced.

Thinking it's about time for mine to be replaced, as the suspension will sag after the car has been parked for a week or two, hydraulic fluid level has dropped a little (no leaks), and the ride is harder than it used to be. But, once the car is started up, the suspension always comes up to full height. I suspect some of the nitrogen cargo has leaked and is now being filling with hydraulic oil.
Old 03-17-2014, 10:29 AM
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94 SL 600, 98 993, 89 XJS Conv., 85 Daimlier Princess 16 Hybrid Lincoln 16 Chevy crewcab
Yes, but on a 94.
I have a solid ramp lift in the car barn. I placed the car on jack stands on the lift. all four tires in the air taking the pressure off the hydraulic system.
Old 03-17-2014, 02:24 PM
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2002 SL600 Silver Arrow, 2009 Smart, 1966 300SE Cabriolet
mschirmer,
Us SL600 Silver Arrow owners are a pretty small group, it's nice to know where some of the other SAs are.
As to the accumulators there are several things to keep in mind.
One is to make sure that you have a quality set of flare nut wrenches of the correct size and the other is to pre-soak the hydraulic fittings with liquid wrench or WD-40 to help ease the loosening of the fittings. Also there might be some write-ups on this forum and also
on BenzWorld.

Robert
Old 03-17-2014, 05:08 PM
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94 SL 600, 98 993, 89 XJS Conv., 85 Daimlier Princess 16 Hybrid Lincoln 16 Chevy crewcab
to add to my comment, The vehicle in the air tires hanging lets me access the under the vehicle issues looking straight at the nuts, the back ones are exposed to the under car grime, while the front are covered by plastic wheel well lining and are easy to disconnect from the hydraulic fluid. depending how much fluid has gushed past the membrane in the sphere, you should be ready for several pints of fluid! if the suspension is deactivated then little or no loss of fluid will come from the pump and receptacle ( near the windscreen fluid tank ) After you replace and close the tubing lines make certain to fill the hydraulic tank, before you start the engine the "bleeding" process ( automatically )takes place when the engine hydraulic pump is operating. The pump needs fluid do not run it dry!!! My experience with 2 vehicles is that the nitrogen membranes last 10-15 years depending on climate. On Benzworld forum the Guru is MBGUS on hydraulics and harnesses.
Good luck

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