daber

The top has been working with no issues or alignment problems. I decided to install a new top since I install a new one on my 1975 450SL without any problems.
During the canvas install, I have to move the top manually and electronically and use the MB tool to lock and unlock the latches.

The canvas is installed, but now the top hydraulic are all out of sync.
During the install I had to lock the front locks with the MB top tool
Also I tried to lock the back locks with the MB tool, following the directions that are on Youtube for the MB top installation.

With the front of the top locked manually, the rear plungers will not lock.
What the back plungers do is that they try to lock in place and then they release.

Also now the front locks will not release with the top button.

I disconnected the battery for 15 hours and tried to operate the top but both problems still exit, the front won't release and back will not lock.

I know I created the problem by manually locking and unlocking the front and rear locks,,,,,,,,,but don't know how to cure the problem.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.\

David

Top Hydraulics

David,

welcome to the R129 forum! No worries, we can sort this out together. There may be a combination of issues.

1) When you install a new canvas, then the front lock micro switches MAY need adjustment, or the rear will not lock completely in some cases.
2) If the battery has been low or disconnected, then the windows need to be synchronized again.
3) If you manually unlock the rear of a model year '95 or younger and subsequently activate the hydraulics without the rear of the hard top or soft top being inside the rear latches, then the system will freeze.
4) It is possible to damage the micro switch assembly on the left bow extension cylinder 1298001772 during canvas replacement.

Let's do some simple diagnostics to figure out what all may have gone wrong.

The easiest ones:
- Window synchronization. Do the windows drop a fraction of an inch when you open the doors? You may not be able to test that instantly if the top is only partially locked. To test the window synch, manually lower the top into the storage compartment. Then make sure the trunk is closed all the way, close the doors, engine off, run the windows up, hold the window buttons UP for some 3 seconds after the windows are up all the way. Now the windows should drop some 1/2" when you open the doors.

- Rear locks not open all the way. Look down the oval holes on top of the rear latches. If you see a metal bar about 3/4" from the top, going in the car's front-rear direction, then the latches are open. If one or both of the latches have not been all the way open, then there is a special procedure that I will explain in more detail if needed. It is not just pulling the release lever and pulling the latches open - there is a second step.

A bit more effort:
- Micro switch assembly on the left bow extension cylinder. With the top resting on the windshield, tonneau cover open, rear bow up, ignition off, move the rear bow (rear window section of the soft top) back and forth by hand. At about 85-degree position, you should be hearing the micro switch on the left fabric bow extension cylinder clicking. If you cannot hear it, find out why.

- Front locks micro switches need adjustment. I will explain in more detail if needed. The procedure is already explained in http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...new-front.html

Please let us know what you find, and we will take it from there.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com

daber

Kraus,
Thank you very much for your quick reply.
Well my problems are 99% corrected.
By sync the windows, the top releases properly and closeses "EXCEPT" for the right rear plunger.
It will latch and then it releases itself.
I tired to re-adjust the plunger at the right rear on the top and that has not cured the latching problem.
I had someone push down on the right rear corner of the top while attempting to close the top, and that has not cured the problem.
I attempted to lock the right rear latch with the top tool, but can't seem to get enough space and leverage because of the gas filler tube line.

Again thank you and if you can direct me to correct the rear latch would greatly be appreciated
David

daber

Klaus,
Forgot to mention that the locking bars are both up and facing the front of the car.
David

Top Hydraulics

Okay, it sounds like the additional tension from having a new canvas requires you to make an adjustment to a front lock micro switch. The front locks develop a little play with time (or the micro switch lever got bumped when someone previously replaced front lock cylinder A129 800 16 72). That makes the micro switch on a front lock A129 800 07 74 (left side) or A129 800 08 74 (right side) erroneously give a "latch open" signal when the latch is closed but something is pulling up really hard on it. With the old canvas on the top, the micro switches in the front latches were signalling correctly. Now, with the new canvas that pulls a little tighter, there is more force pulling up on the front locks as soon as the rear locks latch down and make the canvas tight. Result: the controller releases the rear locks again during the closing action, because is thinks the front isn't fully locked yet. Sometimes, this will happen only once the rear locks are latched down already and the windows are already coming up.

Those shops with Star Diagnosis would eventually point at the front locks - less experienced shops might even suggest to get a new controller. Almost any shop would tell you to replace the front locks, because they don't know about the ultimately simple adjustment procedure below.
Here is how to check whether it is one of those micro switches needing adjustment, and which one:

After the top has locked in the front, put the soft top tool (6-mm Allen wrench) into the front lock on one side, through the hole in front of the visor. Turn the wrench such that it locks even farther, taking the play out of the lock. That direction is different on the opposite sides, by the way. Holding the wrench in the far locking position, push the soft top button forward and check whether the top now fully closes in the rear with the windows going up afterwards.

Try the same on the other side.

If you find that holding the wrench on one side does the trick, then that switch needs adjustment. I will explain the procedure below and include some pics that should illustrate what I'm talking about. You may have to read the description several times, because there is some reverse logic involved. Once you know how to do it, it's quite simple!


Adjustment procedure:

Note that you need to re-install the windshield header panel before the top will operate on model years '95+. Also, be careful not to pull on the wires of the magnetic sensor that is mounted in the windshield header panel on model years '95+. See page 3 of http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/R129...%20Removal.pdf.

The micro switch on the front lock(s) gets pushed DOWN by a lever when the lock is OPEN. There is some reverse logic involved here, so take it slow and read very carefully.

As the lock receives the soft top in it and locks, the small lever that is pushing on the switch releases just enough for the switch to click open once the lock itself is in closed position. If the lever has been bumped or bent when the front locks were installed, or if the locks have developed play over the years, then oftentimes the lever is not pushing down far enough by the time the lock is in the final (resting) locked position. This resting position can be different from the locked position without the top being latched down by the lock.

In your case, you probably have to bend that lever up just a tiny bit (1 mm or 1/32 inch). This adjustment can be made without removing the lock. Remove the windshield header panel and adjust the lever above the micro switch until it barely touches the switch when the lock is closed. Note the play in the lock - you need to recreate the position the lock would be in if the soft top was closed and pulling up on the lock. This is shown in the third photo with the caption "Front lock in real life with the top pulling". Ideally, the boot of the switch will just start bulging when the lock is in the "real life closed position".



Above: Front latch open, the lever is fully triggering the micro switch




Above: Front lock closed manually and turned to the farthest point: the lever is far off the micro switch. The lever will come down once you let go of the 6-mm Allen wrench




Above: front lock fully closed, but imitating the soft top pulling up on it and taking out all play. Ideally, the lever barely touches the micro switch, without triggering it. The lever would have to move down quite a bit more before you hear the micro switch click.

I hope this helps, and please let us know what you find.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com

daber

Klaus...
Everything is working. It was a small adjustment to the right front micro sw.
Both rear locks are latching and the top is fitting quite nicely.
I want to thank you very much for your expert guidance and time.
There are works that I can express for the professional manner in which you have helped.
You are a great asset to our forum
David