SL/R129: Thoughts after reinstalling hydraulic cylinders after new seals
07-10-2015, 09:29 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Thoughts after reinstalling hydraulic cylinders after new seals
First off- this job IS a pain in the ***. It takes time and patience.
It took me about 10 hours to pull all 12 cylinders out and about 30 hours to put them back in.I still have to put my car back together, so there's a few more hours. You will find the the hydraulic lines need to be in the correct position in ordered to be seated fully. Some line clips will go on in a second, others will take 15 minutes. Yes, that long. It's all a matter of getting your hand in the right position to get the clip started. Pliers may help, but probably not.
I have small hands and it definitely helped. If you have big hands, enlist the help of a friend with small hands and buy him beer.
I suggest taking pictures of the routing of the soft lines. Routing is important.
I found that the strut that assists the tonneau lift grew by 1/4" after taking it off.And, you cannot compress it by hand. Blocks of wood and a crow bar get it back on it's pin.
I could go on and on.
At first the top did not work. I was actually expecting this. One of the top latches needed to be opened and then a conversation with Klaus fixed the rest. Big shout out to Klaus. Not only did he turn my parts around fast, but is always willing to share his knowledge.
So my top is operational once again - except the red light stays on when you put it up. Not so when you put it down. So I need to sort that out.
If you take on this job and run into problems, PM me, I can probably help and save you some time.
It took me about 10 hours to pull all 12 cylinders out and about 30 hours to put them back in.I still have to put my car back together, so there's a few more hours. You will find the the hydraulic lines need to be in the correct position in ordered to be seated fully. Some line clips will go on in a second, others will take 15 minutes. Yes, that long. It's all a matter of getting your hand in the right position to get the clip started. Pliers may help, but probably not.
I have small hands and it definitely helped. If you have big hands, enlist the help of a friend with small hands and buy him beer.
I suggest taking pictures of the routing of the soft lines. Routing is important.
I found that the strut that assists the tonneau lift grew by 1/4" after taking it off.And, you cannot compress it by hand. Blocks of wood and a crow bar get it back on it's pin.
I could go on and on.
At first the top did not work. I was actually expecting this. One of the top latches needed to be opened and then a conversation with Klaus fixed the rest. Big shout out to Klaus. Not only did he turn my parts around fast, but is always willing to share his knowledge.
So my top is operational once again - except the red light stays on when you put it up. Not so when you put it down. So I need to sort that out.
If you take on this job and run into problems, PM me, I can probably help and save you some time.
07-11-2015, 03:40 PM
#2
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2002 Silver Arrow, Pano
I've replaced all cylinders in both of my R129s, all using Klaus. I found it to be quite easy and straight forward. The only issue I ran into (and it was my own darn fault) was that I dropped the main lift cylinder mounting bolt down into the car and it was unretrievable. A quick trip to my Mercedes dealership and I was back in business. That was on my first R129, my second I had no issues with, live & learn. My basic philosophy with replacing your cylinders is 'if you can turn a screwdriver, you can do these'. The instructions on Klaus' website are spot on and posses pictures of every step, absolutely excellent!!
07-27-2015, 07:46 AM
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1996 Mercedes-Benz SL500
Can you point me to Klaus's website? I just sent all 12 of my cylinders to Top Hydraulics for rebuild. I'll be putting them back once they are returned.
From what I found during removal, these are going to be a chore to put back! The bow extension cylinders being the biggest pain! 10 hours sounds about right to remove them. I'm hoping to have them all back in the same amount of time.
Thanx,
P.S. Did a quick search and, if I am not mistaken, Klaus is the guy from Top Hydraulics! I know the site. Wish me luck when my cylinders are returned!
From what I found during removal, these are going to be a chore to put back! The bow extension cylinders being the biggest pain! 10 hours sounds about right to remove them. I'm hoping to have them all back in the same amount of time.
Thanx,
P.S. Did a quick search and, if I am not mistaken, Klaus is the guy from Top Hydraulics! I know the site. Wish me luck when my cylinders are returned!
Last edited by FalconChief; 07-27-2015 at 07:52 AM.
07-27-2015, 09:04 AM
#4
Junior Member
Do you have pics? I know the rough location of the cylinders, but I don't know where the switches are:
Soft top bow limit switch locked R -- A23s2
Soft top limit switch locked L -- S84/1
Soft top bow limit switch locked R -- A23s2
Soft top limit switch locked L -- S84/1
07-27-2015, 09:46 AM
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1996 Mercedes-Benz SL500
bgalakazam,
I found all the information I needed at the Top Hydraulics web site. Not sure if I'm allowed to post the link here but I'll try:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions
Just look for the R129 instructions. There is a link for each cylinder.
Be VERY careful with the bow extension cylinders as they are the most likely to lose parts in the body panels!
The bow limit switch is in the driver side (left) bow cylinder bracket. It can be damaged if you don't remove it correctly.
Not sure about the top limit switch, I assume you are talking about the top lock at the windshield? I would suspect it would be under the trim with the lock cylinders?
I found all the information I needed at the Top Hydraulics web site. Not sure if I'm allowed to post the link here but I'll try:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions
Just look for the R129 instructions. There is a link for each cylinder.
Be VERY careful with the bow extension cylinders as they are the most likely to lose parts in the body panels!
The bow limit switch is in the driver side (left) bow cylinder bracket. It can be damaged if you don't remove it correctly.
Not sure about the top limit switch, I assume you are talking about the top lock at the windshield? I would suspect it would be under the trim with the lock cylinders?
08-05-2015, 06:20 AM
#7
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1996 Mercedes-Benz SL500
I received my cylinders back from Top Hydraulics on Monday. Couldn't wait to get off work on Tuesday to put them in! (Sent them out on Sunday, Top Hydraulics received them on Wednesday, Shipped them back on Friday, I got them on Monday!) Only 1 week from shipping to return! Great job Top Hydraulics!
Took me 6 hours to install all 12 cylinders & trouble shoot some minor issues. The left bow extension cylinder was the biggest pain in the A$$! Took about 2 hours just to install that one. BE VERY CAREFUL with the limit switch. Apparently I mangled mine getting it out. After getting it back into shape (I used a meter to be sure it was actuating correctly), it took forever to figure out how to snake it back into position to be pinned. I had to install the cylinder without the switch installed and install the switch & wire guide AFTER positioning the cylinder (before pinning it). Once in position it was tricky to hold the roof in an almost completely UP position to install the upper pin. Once done you need to lower the top completely in the boot to install the lower pin. The 'C' clip is tricky to install through the hole from inside. The right side was not as difficult as there is no switch to worry about and the left one taught me a thing or two. Pay attention to the hydraulic line clip installation. There is a RIGHT way to install them. Be sure they do not protrude past the shadow of the cylinder itself or it will not fit between the mechanism as it actuates.
The other cylinders went in fairly quickly as they are much easier to access. Be careful with the boot lift cylinders. I took the lift shock off and the boot slammed shut! Support the boot before removing the shock!
I did find a few things during my attempt to actuate the top for the first time:
1. Be sure everything is in the DOWN position.
2. Be sure the boot locks are properly locked (I had them in the locked position with the boot 'loose' sitting ON the locks, not IN the locks.)
3. Be sure the clips are all in the correct direction. (One of the rear top lock clips was in backwards and was interfering with the lock being able to OPEN completely. The right bow cylinder clips can be installed either way but in one direction they will rub on the mechanism.)
4. Fill reservoir with fluid BEFORE cycling the top. (I removed the fluid that did not spill all over my driveway and it took less than a quart to fill it up.)
5. Be prepared to cycle the top several times before it will operate. (Need to fill all 12 cylinders with fluid and purge all air before it will cycle correctly)
And before you ask, YES I did the entire removal / installation by myself!
I have another 4 hours or so to install all the interior trim but am waiting to install a new head unit / backup camera first.
Good luck!
Took me 6 hours to install all 12 cylinders & trouble shoot some minor issues. The left bow extension cylinder was the biggest pain in the A$$! Took about 2 hours just to install that one. BE VERY CAREFUL with the limit switch. Apparently I mangled mine getting it out. After getting it back into shape (I used a meter to be sure it was actuating correctly), it took forever to figure out how to snake it back into position to be pinned. I had to install the cylinder without the switch installed and install the switch & wire guide AFTER positioning the cylinder (before pinning it). Once in position it was tricky to hold the roof in an almost completely UP position to install the upper pin. Once done you need to lower the top completely in the boot to install the lower pin. The 'C' clip is tricky to install through the hole from inside. The right side was not as difficult as there is no switch to worry about and the left one taught me a thing or two. Pay attention to the hydraulic line clip installation. There is a RIGHT way to install them. Be sure they do not protrude past the shadow of the cylinder itself or it will not fit between the mechanism as it actuates.
The other cylinders went in fairly quickly as they are much easier to access. Be careful with the boot lift cylinders. I took the lift shock off and the boot slammed shut! Support the boot before removing the shock!
I did find a few things during my attempt to actuate the top for the first time:
1. Be sure everything is in the DOWN position.
2. Be sure the boot locks are properly locked (I had them in the locked position with the boot 'loose' sitting ON the locks, not IN the locks.)
3. Be sure the clips are all in the correct direction. (One of the rear top lock clips was in backwards and was interfering with the lock being able to OPEN completely. The right bow cylinder clips can be installed either way but in one direction they will rub on the mechanism.)
4. Fill reservoir with fluid BEFORE cycling the top. (I removed the fluid that did not spill all over my driveway and it took less than a quart to fill it up.)
5. Be prepared to cycle the top several times before it will operate. (Need to fill all 12 cylinders with fluid and purge all air before it will cycle correctly)
And before you ask, YES I did the entire removal / installation by myself!
I have another 4 hours or so to install all the interior trim but am waiting to install a new head unit / backup camera first.
Good luck!
Last edited by FalconChief; 08-05-2015 at 06:23 AM.
