SL-Class (R129) 1990-2002: SL 280, SL 300, SL 320, SL 500, SL 600, SL 60 AMG

SL/R129: "Normal" Gauge readings

Old 06-25-2016, 08:25 AM
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1995 SL500
"Normal" Gauge readings

Ok just coming around to asking this now that I have been driving her for a little bit (And really enjoying the HECK out of it!!!!)

What should the "Normal" gauge readings be for Temp and Oil Pressures?

Just trying to get a feel for what is normal and when I need to address things.

Currently when out driving I see temps on the highway running from about 90-110 and have seen almost 120 sitting in city traffic, nothing spikes, just very calmly sits at those temps. I have not worried much about it as my Father used to have a 78 450SLC with I beleive the 5.0 in it (Was a euro spec car that was imported thru canada and into the US) and he said his always ran warm.

The oil pressure currently when out at speed (70-less than top end lol) is always up near the 3, when I come to a light it will come down but usually not below the 1, he did not remember his gauge readings for that.

Fluids are checked regularly and levels do not change, oil is nice and fresh less than 1k miles on it. Coolant looks good and smells ok, maybe a little warn and could use a flush but not burnt smelling in the least.

Thanks for the help!
Old 06-26-2016, 10:07 AM
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94 SL 600, 98 993, 89 XJS Conv., 85 Daimlier Princess 16 Hybrid Lincoln 16 Chevy crewcab
I have experienced the gauge range you listed on all the benz models I have driven/owned.
So were in the world are you?
What is the oil, and other fluids in quality, density viscosity et al.
What gauges do your model have, any retro or replacement??
Old 06-26-2016, 11:46 AM
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In Massachusetts myself.

As for viscosity and type, Honestly I dont know all of it yet, The car is still new to me and I have not gone thru all of it. The fluids all look good, and none smell off or burnt. The only one I have any question on right now is the power steering fluid which looks like it could use a change.

Fluids are all at the full or very close to it as far as level goes sans the windshield washer fluid which needs a fill but no worries there.

The gauges all appear to be factory original to the car and I do not see anything in the engine bay area that looks suspect to change. Even the Cap to the coolant overflow tank is a real MB cap (Is primarily written in german and has the stamped MB logo on it) and looks to be in solid condition. Being a 1995 (Actually build in 1994 and delivered right before the holidays if the paperwork I found is accurate) she has the digital odometer and from the few pictures i have looked at they all appear to be original.

I still need to test the clutch fan (With the rolled up newspaper trick I read about) for actual function. I do also still want to find a way to test the aux fans and ensure they are working properly.

The oil WILL be getting changed out most likely to the industrial grade Royal Purple (Hate if you want but thats what is going in it) The reason for the industrial grade is that there are no limits to the additives as there are in the over the counter variety so the actual engineered portion of the oil consists of all the good little lubricants and such that are very tightly regulated otherwise for consumer purchase.

I know she will need maintenance and most likely be due for fluid changes as she approaches 100k miles and I do plan to do them but I want to ensure that in doing the changes I am not just changing fluid in parts that also need to be replaced. She is certainly NOT my daily driver so to spend a little more time to get the parts and other items needed to properly maintain her is worth it in my opinion.
Old 06-29-2016, 04:43 PM
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94 SL 600, 98 993, 89 XJS Conv., 85 Daimlier Princess 16 Hybrid Lincoln 16 Chevy crewcab
Not a hater, but...
The problems I have had because of my desire to use a new "hiTec" products ( over 30 years new stuff has left my floors well oiled from new drips!
The new super lubs are great but for an old engine, gaskets, hoses it hasn't always worked out! The pressure read from start has been at 3 for oil but goes into the 1-2 area for low RPM after engine warm up.
New buys get hoses and belts then fluid change but with the same product. New engines get Syntek at first run.
Good luck and have fun!
Old 06-29-2016, 05:37 PM
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Mine doesnt drop the oil pressure even after warm up, stays up basically all the time.

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