TheSaint

The ASD light came on my car some time ago

The diagnostic connector on my car is an 16 port but only port 1, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11 ,14 and 16 are in use since the other ports are empty

I have the analog tester with 3 wires where the green wire goes to ground, the white wire goes to 12 volt plus and the black wire is used n the different ports for for error codes

According to the fault codes in the user manual port 5 is for the ASD but when i put on the wires nothing happens.

I then put it on port 6 to check if was working and so it did.
Test 1. 3 flashes, Fault Body acceleration sensor

Test 2. 4 flashes, Fault Wheel accelrator sensor

Test 3. 8 flashes, Fault Rear axle solenoid valves 1

Test 4. 9 flashes, Fault Rear axle solenoid valves 2

After i did reset all of the error codes the ASD warning light went away

Having said that i am pretty sure it will come back on when i drive the car.

I suppose the 16 port diagnostic connector should be alike on all 1992 Mercedes 300 SL? Any here knows if i can find schematic over the 16 port connector for my car using the VIN at the Russian site?

See the drawing and the picture for ports that is active on the 16 port diagnostic connectoron for my 1992 300 SL 12 valve, European spec

Also does the fault codes listed above have something to do with the ASD warning light?
I would think so because the ASD is for the anti spin rear axle and there is 1 sensor on the left rear wheel, 1 sensor on the right rear wheel and sensors on the front wheel as well

Can there be any difference on the 16 port connector for a 300 SL, 129.060 SL and 129.061 SL since i only find error codes for the 129.061 SL in the user manual/error code list

Any here had any problems with the ASD?

bobterry99

I believe you are correct. Still, the fact that the malfunction lamp went out when you cleared codes on socket #6 is a strong indication otherwise. I believe there is an easy way to be sure.

The diagnostic socket for ASD is wired to the module's #6 pin. Therefore, I would remove the connector to the ASD module and use a multimeter and probe around and see to which socket #6 is wired.

TheSaint

I did do as described in the user manual that came with the fault code reader that says you have to turn on the ignition when doing the test

I did this according to the manual but when i plugged in the the ground wire in port 1, the 12 volt plus wire in port 16 and the test wire in port 5 which is yje port for the ASD.
When i did as the user manual says i could not get the fault code reader to work/flash. It was like port 5 on my car was not connected to anything

This is what i had to do to get the fault code reader to work properlly.
Have the engine on the car to run at idle and not just put the ignition on as the user manual says

With the engin running on idle i could I check for for any errors on my 1992 Mercedes Sl
I did check the same port (port 5) 3 times, but the only fault was the 8 flash fault code which i got every time i did the fault test
So fine for me that it was only 1 fault code

The 8 flash fault code is the "Adaptive damping system valve or stop lamp switch" This made the ASD warning light to come on

I did reset the error code by holding the button on the code reader in for a little bit over 10 seconds and after that i did one more fault code check and i only got 1 flash which means "No fault found"

After this i did a test drive for about 14 kilometres and no ASD warning light so far so i hope everything is okay

TheSaint

I forgot to say that i think you do not need any tools for dealing with faults, reading and resetting fault codes.

Lets say the ASD warning light comes on

I think all you need is 2 long wires where one wire goes to port which is ground(16 pin connector) and the other wire to port 5 (ASD port)

I think you can put the wires in port 1 and 5 and get in behind the steering wheel and short the 2 wires for about 4 seconds and then i think the ASD warning lamp itself will flash to show which fault code it is

After you have found out the fault code you short the 2 wires again and hold the wires together for a little over 10 seconds and i think you will have reset the fault

Note that i have not tried to do this myself so if you decide to try you are doing it on your own risk!

When you press down the button on the analog fault code reader tool what you do is to short the wires

TheSaint

You are correct that i did use port 6 yesterday since i did not get port 5 to work so port 6 might have something to do with the ASD somehow?

But today when read the faul codes and also reset then fault code so the ASD warning light got off i only used port 5 and not port 6.

Port 5 was a bit strange since i had to have the engine running (according to the manual you should only have the ignition on) to be able to read the fault codes and also to be able to reset the fault code (there was only 1 fault code)

See the diagram (ASD circled in red) that shows that port 5 on the 16 pole connector for my 1992 300 SL is for the ASD

B

bobterry99

So true. That code reader you purchased probably has nothing internal -- it is just what you see -- a button and an LED.

With a few simple components and little knowledge the maker could have constructed a device where you press one button to read and another to erase. It would not matter how long you held either button because a timing circuit would handle the duration.

A few years ago I tested a code reader that automates everything: push a button one time and it automatically reads all the codes, and when finished displays all of them on a two-digit display. Push another button momentarily and it erases all of the codes automatically.

I mention that reader because it erased codes by shorting a socket to ground for 7 seconds -- not 10. It worked fine for several systems, but I did not test it on all of them. I was thinking of building it again, but if it won't work universally I would not bother.

TheSaint

You are correct sir I did drive for about 80 kilometres today and no
problem with ASD light

But on my way home i was driving in about 100 km/h and hit some really hard bumps with my rear wheels only and that made the ASD light come back on.

So now when i did count the flashes on the reader it was the same faullt with 8 flashes. I did read the faults again and this time after i held down the button for about 4 seconds i looked at the instrument panel on my car to chech if the ASD warning lamp was flashing and sure it was flashing
So it is obvious that 2 wires is all the tools you need to read fault codes and also reset the faults Well you will need the fault code manual as well which you can download from the net as a PDF file

But on my car it looks like when the rear wheels get some "heavy" jumping up and down, it will trigger the ASD sensors so the warning lamp will come on so i i will try to see if i can get at the connectors for the ASD sensors at the rear wheells and clean them.

I am pretty sure that if i clean the connectors the problem is gone

The ASD warning lamp does not light up as long as i am driving on relative okay road
I will put the 2 wires that is about 1,5 meters long in the car and use the wires to read and reset faults in case the warning light comes on again before i have had the time to clean the ASD sensors at the rear wheels

bobterry99

I would not expect this. In the case of the roll bar and top controllers you can short the diagnostic socket for 2-4 seconds and just watch the maflunction light in the cluster (roll bar) or light in the control switch (top) to get the codes. This is because those indicators are wired in parallel with the socket.

The simple "reader" that I use to read and erase codes is shown. I do not have a switch -- I just touch the loose end of the white wire to chassis ground.

TheSaint

The ASD warning light that i had a problem with is for the automatic locking differential. It was the ASD warning lamp that came on and also flashed the faults

It looks to me that you do not even need a diode light to read or reset the faults.

I bet you can short all of the warning lights and have the lamps in the instrument panel flash the code/codes for the faults as long as it is a 8 port or 16 port connector on your Mercedes

The reader you have is just the same as the box with "Mercedes " text on that i bought

I have put the wires in my car so if i drive over some bumps so the rear wheels "jumps" up and down fast and the ASD light comes on i can use the wires

TheSaint

There is no doubt that you can read and reset codes using nothing else that 2 wires on a 16 port diagnostic connector because i just read the fault code and i also did reset the fault code on my 1992 SL right now using nothing but 2 wires

I put 1 wire in port 1 which is ground and the other in port 5 which is for the ASD/anti locking differential

I was sitting in the drivers seat and i did short the 2 wires for about 4 seconds and counted the ASD warning lamp flash 8 times.
I did the check again and shorted the 2 wires for 4 seconds once more to check for more fault codes, but the ASD warning lamp flashed 8 times again which says there only is one fault code, since the ASD lamp flashed 8 times again

After that i did short the 2 wires for about 10 seconds to reset the fault code and the ASD warning lamp stopped lighting up

After this i turned off the engine and ignition for about a minute and did 1 more check by shorting the 2 wires to check that the fault was gone and sure it was gone since the ASD warning lamp only flashed one time and that says that there is no faults at port 6 on the 16 port connector

So all you need to read and reset fault codes on a SL or other Mercedes with a 16 port connector is simply just 2 wires

The reason that fault code readers as the one i have(see the picture)have 3 wires, 1 wire goes to ground, wire goes to the port you want to check and the wire that goes to port 16(12 volts plus)
or the battery
The reason you have on wire to port 16 which is 12 volts + or the plus terminal on the battery is only to get power to the diode light on the fault code reader which you really do not need since the waning lamps flash the fault codes.

But fault codes that does not have any warning lights you will need the wire and diode light that goes to port 16 or the plus terminal on the battery so you can see the diode light flash the fault codes