SL/R230: How do I disassmeble my driver side door?
05-08-2009, 03:47 PM
#1
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SL500
How do I disassmeble my driver side door?
Actually what happened was my window switch was broken and I went to Mercedes Benz of sacramento to buy the parts and bought it for 130$ and what they told me was it will pop out..and when I came out and asked for help to mechanic they told me that this car you have to disassemble the door in order to put window switch in it. and that labor costs 160$
How can I disassemble my door and put new window switch in it????
How can I disassemble my door and put new window switch in it????
05-09-2009, 10:07 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just looked at the Star Service DVD. It's a nine step procedure that isn't easy to reduce to words. You start by removing the triangular piece that covers the rear view mirror hardware, then the six screws that hold the door lock cover, then keep going from there.
As I just posted on another thread, if you don't have a copy of the Star Service DVD, it's well worth picking one up. Cost was $60 in the recent past and is probably still in that neighborhood. More information here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=9124
Good luck with the repair!
As I just posted on another thread, if you don't have a copy of the Star Service DVD, it's well worth picking one up. Cost was $60 in the recent past and is probably still in that neighborhood. More information here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=9124
Good luck with the repair!
05-14-2009, 06:41 PM
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2003 SL500
First, you want to lower your window. As listed above, take off the triangular cover for the sideview mirror. remove the screws holding in the metal trim on the side of the door. Take off the SRS Cover on the doorpanel, you have to turn it to pull it out. remove the screw behind there. start from the bottom of the door and pull towards you to pop the door from the pushclips. When that's done, lift the panel up and you can go from there to remove the door lock pin, connection to the door handle, and unplug the wires connecting to the door panel. I just disconnected the wires from the door side and left the wires connected to the panel since it was easier for me to see. Be careful not to pull too hard when u lift the panel off so u don't bend the door lock or rip the wires off. hope this helps.
08-15-2009, 01:39 AM
#5
This job was a real b*tch that I tackled tonite.. I thought it would be relatively simple, as I have a defective window switch as well, but it took about 2.5 hours. Most of that time was figuring out how it all came apart. Sorry for the crudeness of my explantation in advance, but I'll try my best to explain.
I never thought replacing a window switch would take so long or be so difficult, but it not only requires taking off the door panel, but also disassembling it (to a degree). First time job - give yourself two hours and make sure you have the correct hex screwdrivers, extra plastic clips (for the door panel since one is always bound to break), plenty of patience and a helper.
1. Start by lowering your window - then start removing the door panel - not as simple as some make it sound. Yes, you remove the SRS badge and the small screw inside there (hint - make sure you use a magnetic tip on your screwdriver). You then remove the 6 or 7 hex bolts holding in the silver plastic cover at the back of the door (covering the latch). Don't forget about the one way at the bottom.
2. Once you've got that done, remove the triangle piece up by the mirror mount. That one also can be a little tricky, since theres a plastic clip that snaps into the metal mold in the body - which came right off with the entire piece - well, at least mine did. Be careful to remove this plastic clip from the triangle cover if it does and set it aside in order to put it back properly.
3. Removing the door panel - the fun part. The clips do start at the bottom, but one needs to be careful when pulling the panel. Don't rip it off. There is about 6 of them, and they run along the bottom then a little bit upwards. This takes time and patience. Once you're confident you've got the clips detached, start applying even pressure pulling upwards and out. As much as you may think there are more clips or a screw holding the panel in place, there isn't- when you take the panel off you'll see that the resistance that you feel is just the way the panel sits in the actual metal door frame. Of course, as careful as you are, a clip is bound to break (as in the case with mine). Make sure you have a few extras (pick them up when you get the switch). Two people are better at tackling this, since each can pull upwards with even pressure. Again, as someone else noted, be careful that the panel pulls up OVER the lock. (this is also why two people are good for this job).
4. Once the panel is successfully off the door, have your buddy hold the panel while you disconnect all the electronic connections and then the door handle. WAIT - don't reach for the beer yet. Still a bunch more to go.
5. Set the panel face down on a nice, scratch resistant surface (i.e. a large towel). As you've probably noticed, the switch sits in the door pull. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold that door pull to the door panel. These need to be removed. When you have the panel upside down, you'll see them - they are hex. There is one or two on the top, and two on the bottom of the door pull. The bottom ones are tough to see, but they're there.
6. Once these are removed, flip the door panel so it's facing you. Open the side compartment that's in the door panel and you'll see a very small screw hex screw that looks like it screws - it's located towards the bottom of that door pull. Remove it but be careful - too much pressure and you'll break the piece that it screws into. (ask me how I know)
7. Once that's out, the door pull is sort of angled into the panel itself. You have to pull it up and towards you.
8. So one would think - OK I have this damn thing off now, simple pop out and pop in. Nope. See step 9.
9. Now that's in your hand, look at the door pull from a side angle. You'll see that there are two plastic sort of soft-triangle clips that hold the switch itself inside the door pull (I wish I had pics to show you). These need to removed with a flat head screw driver. Take note of how there placed in there, because you'll be putting them back once you've got the new one in.
10. Once those are removed, lift the switch up and out (this needs some coersion and again is not as easy as it sounds). Put the new one in, reclip those two clips, put the door pull back in, put all your screws back, have your buddy hold the door panel up to the car while you plug everything back in (don't forget the door handle itself), slide the door panel over the lock, make sure you push towards the door and down, it should lock in. Oh and make sure you replace the clips you broke PRIOR to putting the door panel back on. Once the door seems to be in place, snap those clips back. Put your screw back in behind the SRS badge, put the SRS badge back, replace your silver trim piece along the back of the door, put your triangle piece back in (again, being careful to put the clip itself back into the door, then snapping the piece into that clip - you'll see what I mean).
Like I said, not as easy of a job as one would think. One other quick point - this is for a 2003 SL500 - I'm not sure if it's different on successive model years.
Good luck!
I never thought replacing a window switch would take so long or be so difficult, but it not only requires taking off the door panel, but also disassembling it (to a degree). First time job - give yourself two hours and make sure you have the correct hex screwdrivers, extra plastic clips (for the door panel since one is always bound to break), plenty of patience and a helper.
1. Start by lowering your window - then start removing the door panel - not as simple as some make it sound. Yes, you remove the SRS badge and the small screw inside there (hint - make sure you use a magnetic tip on your screwdriver). You then remove the 6 or 7 hex bolts holding in the silver plastic cover at the back of the door (covering the latch). Don't forget about the one way at the bottom.
2. Once you've got that done, remove the triangle piece up by the mirror mount. That one also can be a little tricky, since theres a plastic clip that snaps into the metal mold in the body - which came right off with the entire piece - well, at least mine did. Be careful to remove this plastic clip from the triangle cover if it does and set it aside in order to put it back properly.
3. Removing the door panel - the fun part. The clips do start at the bottom, but one needs to be careful when pulling the panel. Don't rip it off. There is about 6 of them, and they run along the bottom then a little bit upwards. This takes time and patience. Once you're confident you've got the clips detached, start applying even pressure pulling upwards and out. As much as you may think there are more clips or a screw holding the panel in place, there isn't- when you take the panel off you'll see that the resistance that you feel is just the way the panel sits in the actual metal door frame. Of course, as careful as you are, a clip is bound to break (as in the case with mine). Make sure you have a few extras (pick them up when you get the switch). Two people are better at tackling this, since each can pull upwards with even pressure. Again, as someone else noted, be careful that the panel pulls up OVER the lock. (this is also why two people are good for this job).
4. Once the panel is successfully off the door, have your buddy hold the panel while you disconnect all the electronic connections and then the door handle. WAIT - don't reach for the beer yet. Still a bunch more to go.
5. Set the panel face down on a nice, scratch resistant surface (i.e. a large towel). As you've probably noticed, the switch sits in the door pull. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold that door pull to the door panel. These need to be removed. When you have the panel upside down, you'll see them - they are hex. There is one or two on the top, and two on the bottom of the door pull. The bottom ones are tough to see, but they're there.
6. Once these are removed, flip the door panel so it's facing you. Open the side compartment that's in the door panel and you'll see a very small screw hex screw that looks like it screws - it's located towards the bottom of that door pull. Remove it but be careful - too much pressure and you'll break the piece that it screws into. (ask me how I know)
7. Once that's out, the door pull is sort of angled into the panel itself. You have to pull it up and towards you.
8. So one would think - OK I have this damn thing off now, simple pop out and pop in. Nope. See step 9.
9. Now that's in your hand, look at the door pull from a side angle. You'll see that there are two plastic sort of soft-triangle clips that hold the switch itself inside the door pull (I wish I had pics to show you). These need to removed with a flat head screw driver. Take note of how there placed in there, because you'll be putting them back once you've got the new one in.
10. Once those are removed, lift the switch up and out (this needs some coersion and again is not as easy as it sounds). Put the new one in, reclip those two clips, put the door pull back in, put all your screws back, have your buddy hold the door panel up to the car while you plug everything back in (don't forget the door handle itself), slide the door panel over the lock, make sure you push towards the door and down, it should lock in. Oh and make sure you replace the clips you broke PRIOR to putting the door panel back on. Once the door seems to be in place, snap those clips back. Put your screw back in behind the SRS badge, put the SRS badge back, replace your silver trim piece along the back of the door, put your triangle piece back in (again, being careful to put the clip itself back into the door, then snapping the piece into that clip - you'll see what I mean).
Like I said, not as easy of a job as one would think. One other quick point - this is for a 2003 SL500 - I'm not sure if it's different on successive model years.
Good luck!
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roy123474 (05-06-2020)
08-15-2009, 11:59 AM
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'08 SL55
Good writeup but at 2.5 hours plus some minor extra parts (clips) and the risk of screwing it up, I'd spend the $160. My time is worth more than $64/hr.
10-02-2011, 03:01 AM
#7
Junior Member
Nice writeup man, good thing your time isn't worth $64 an hour, otherwise you'd know nothing about your car and come off like a total deuchebag on mb forums. Gotta love it when people who have absolutely nothing to contribute decide to chime in with nothing more than "ya, I'm rich enough that I'd rather just pay the help to do that...". As if it's believable or impressive or matters in the least bit. OP- thanks for the writeup, I'll use it as I will be doing this job in the near future. Deuchebag - a couple hours of your time doesn't cost you money, and an mb tech's time taking apart your door isn't worth $64 an hour, that's why us mere peasants use these forums for something more valuable than propping up a (likely false) ego.
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04-21-2014, 12:08 PM
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sl55
Dear Phil, Iv just sent you a private message, I must say I'm intrigued to hear how on earth you've managed to change the armrest in the door panel as I have one in front of me right now in pieces and can't work out how to access the hinge pin without cutting the moulded plastic pegs? keen to hear your thoughts, maybe I'm missing a vital clip?
See my thread here;
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...ml#post6015510
See my thread here;
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...ml#post6015510
06-20-2014, 12:00 PM
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2005 SL500
Is bragging allowed? I was very close to taking teeth's attitude-not so much because of the time invloved, but because I didn't want to break something that was far more expensive than the money I was savings byt doing it myself. But, after reading later posts, I decided that part of owning a third car just for fun was tinkering with it. So, I got the part and did it myself. Do in part to my experience 30 years ago as a mechanic, but more due to njcycleguy's EXCELLENT detailed instructions, I did the whole job soup to nuts in 1 hour and ten minutes, didn't break even one clip, and knocked down two single malts. This site is FANTASTIC! Next, I'm going to fix the power trunk assist!
01-15-2015, 09:13 AM
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VW CADDY mk3
Still can't remove panel
The instructions above are very good but i have not had any luck. In the UK the panel might be different??
I have removed the triangle by the mirror, removed the 6 screws in the silver end plate around the latch and removed the screw behind the srs plate and released all of the panel push-clips.
The panel still is not coming off. I nearly bent the thing in two with pressure applied outwards and upwards.
There must be another fixing there. I removed the courtesy light at the bottom of the door and the speaker grill but no sight of any further fixings.
I can feel where there is still resistance and it is right behind where the door pull handle is located. Does anyone have any ideas???
I am baffled especially considering so many people have had success following the above instructions.
I have removed the triangle by the mirror, removed the 6 screws in the silver end plate around the latch and removed the screw behind the srs plate and released all of the panel push-clips.
The panel still is not coming off. I nearly bent the thing in two with pressure applied outwards and upwards.
There must be another fixing there. I removed the courtesy light at the bottom of the door and the speaker grill but no sight of any further fixings.
I can feel where there is still resistance and it is right behind where the door pull handle is located. Does anyone have any ideas???
I am baffled especially considering so many people have had success following the above instructions.
04-21-2015, 11:34 AM
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2009 SL550
This happened as well on my driver's side.
Both of my window switches are working (both windows go up/down), however driver's side window tab broke off (I can still operate the window if I put the switch back and press on while the window goes up/down)....of course, this is just a temporary fix.
I was curious if anyone just tried to glue the tab back? IMO, there is nothing to lose by trying it. If it does not work and the tab breaks off, the whole switch assembly needs to be replaced anyway. I have a super strong epoxy so I figured it's worth a try. BTW, my local MB dealer quoted me $155 for the part and $280 for labor , LOL !!
If gluing it does not work, I found the part online for $106 and my trusted mechanic quoted me $75 to put it in. Thanks for the great write up njcycleguy, but unfortunately some of us are not handy at all
Thanks for this good info. Originally I thought I just needed to buy a $20 plastic tab, now I found out the the whole assembly needs to be switched and the door paneling removed to the tune of $435 plus Tax from my MB dealer.
Both of my window switches are working (both windows go up/down), however driver's side window tab broke off (I can still operate the window if I put the switch back and press on while the window goes up/down)....of course, this is just a temporary fix.
I was curious if anyone just tried to glue the tab back? IMO, there is nothing to lose by trying it. If it does not work and the tab breaks off, the whole switch assembly needs to be replaced anyway. I have a super strong epoxy so I figured it's worth a try. BTW, my local MB dealer quoted me $155 for the part and $280 for labor , LOL !!
If gluing it does not work, I found the part online for $106 and my trusted mechanic quoted me $75 to put it in. Thanks for the great write up njcycleguy, but unfortunately some of us are not handy at all
Thanks for this good info. Originally I thought I just needed to buy a $20 plastic tab, now I found out the the whole assembly needs to be switched and the door paneling removed to the tune of $435 plus Tax from my MB dealer.
07-11-2015, 08:23 PM
#14
Junior Member
Great writeup
Great write-up. 1 hour and 15 minutes, two cold ones and one broken orange plastic tab later everything works as a charm.
Only thing I would like to add to the write-up is that when you re-assemble the door, make sure that the panel is snug against the window and almost vertical before you start pushing it down. If it doesn't fall snug with the door when you push it down then the tab in the middle of the door didn't catch its hole.
Also when remounting the aluminum panel at the door latch, make sure you get the rubber seal on the outside of the aluminum.
Many thanks to NYCycleGuy for the time he has taken to write this up.
Only thing I would like to add to the write-up is that when you re-assemble the door, make sure that the panel is snug against the window and almost vertical before you start pushing it down. If it doesn't fall snug with the door when you push it down then the tab in the middle of the door didn't catch its hole.
Also when remounting the aluminum panel at the door latch, make sure you get the rubber seal on the outside of the aluminum.
Many thanks to NYCycleGuy for the time he has taken to write this up.
05-06-2020, 09:13 AM
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2001 CLK55 AMG W208
Excellent details! I just had to change my 2009 SL63 AMG R230 door switch. It was a pain in the ***! I saved money doing it myself reading your details description. It took me 10-15 minutes to take out the door (very easy). The rest was trying to get the switch out. After all is done, took about close to 2 hours! Bad engineering design by MB just to take out the switch. I thought for a seconds I needed to take out my carbon fiber door trims. That would be a pain in the *** too because I couldn't figure out to remove the carbon fiber door trim. It's good I saw your details description how to remove the switch or I would really had a bad day! lol Once again thanks for your help! 
05-06-2020, 09:15 AM
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2001 CLK55 AMG W208
This job was a real b*tch that I tackled tonite.. I thought it would be relatively simple, as I have a defective window switch as well, but it took about 2.5 hours. Most of that time was figuring out how it all came apart. Sorry for the crudeness of my explantation in advance, but I'll try my best to explain.
I never thought replacing a window switch would take so long or be so difficult, but it not only requires taking off the door panel, but also disassembling it (to a degree). First time job - give yourself two hours and make sure you have the correct hex screwdrivers, extra plastic clips (for the door panel since one is always bound to break), plenty of patience and a helper.
1. Start by lowering your window - then start removing the door panel - not as simple as some make it sound. Yes, you remove the SRS badge and the small screw inside there (hint - make sure you use a magnetic tip on your screwdriver). You then remove the 6 or 7 hex bolts holding in the silver plastic cover at the back of the door (covering the latch). Don't forget about the one way at the bottom.
2. Once you've got that done, remove the triangle piece up by the mirror mount. That one also can be a little tricky, since theres a plastic clip that snaps into the metal mold in the body - which came right off with the entire piece - well, at least mine did. Be careful to remove this plastic clip from the triangle cover if it does and set it aside in order to put it back properly.
3. Removing the door panel - the fun part. The clips do start at the bottom, but one needs to be careful when pulling the panel. Don't rip it off. There is about 6 of them, and they run along the bottom then a little bit upwards. This takes time and patience. Once you're confident you've got the clips detached, start applying even pressure pulling upwards and out. As much as you may think there are more clips or a screw holding the panel in place, there isn't- when you take the panel off you'll see that the resistance that you feel is just the way the panel sits in the actual metal door frame. Of course, as careful as you are, a clip is bound to break (as in the case with mine). Make sure you have a few extras (pick them up when you get the switch). Two people are better at tackling this, since each can pull upwards with even pressure. Again, as someone else noted, be careful that the panel pulls up OVER the lock. (this is also why two people are good for this job).
4. Once the panel is successfully off the door, have your buddy hold the panel while you disconnect all the electronic connections and then the door handle. WAIT - don't reach for the beer yet. Still a bunch more to go.
5. Set the panel face down on a nice, scratch resistant surface (i.e. a large towel). As you've probably noticed, the switch sits in the door pull. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold that door pull to the door panel. These need to be removed. When you have the panel upside down, you'll see them - they are hex. There is one or two on the top, and two on the bottom of the door pull. The bottom ones are tough to see, but they're there.
6. Once these are removed, flip the door panel so it's facing you. Open the side compartment that's in the door panel and you'll see a very small screw hex screw that looks like it screws - it's located towards the bottom of that door pull. Remove it but be careful - too much pressure and you'll break the piece that it screws into. (ask me how I know)
7. Once that's out, the door pull is sort of angled into the panel itself. You have to pull it up and towards you.
8. So one would think - OK I have this damn thing off now, simple pop out and pop in. Nope. See step 9.
9. Now that's in your hand, look at the door pull from a side angle. You'll see that there are two plastic sort of soft-triangle clips that hold the switch itself inside the door pull (I wish I had pics to show you). These need to removed with a flat head screw driver. Take note of how there placed in there, because you'll be putting them back once you've got the new one in.
10. Once those are removed, lift the switch up and out (this needs some coersion and again is not as easy as it sounds). Put the new one in, reclip those two clips, put the door pull back in, put all your screws back, have your buddy hold the door panel up to the car while you plug everything back in (don't forget the door handle itself), slide the door panel over the lock, make sure you push towards the door and down, it should lock in. Oh and make sure you replace the clips you broke PRIOR to putting the door panel back on. Once the door seems to be in place, snap those clips back. Put your screw back in behind the SRS badge, put the SRS badge back, replace your silver trim piece along the back of the door, put your triangle piece back in (again, being careful to put the clip itself back into the door, then snapping the piece into that clip - you'll see what I mean).
Like I said, not as easy of a job as one would think. One other quick point - this is for a 2003 SL500 - I'm not sure if it's different on successive model years.
Good luck!
I never thought replacing a window switch would take so long or be so difficult, but it not only requires taking off the door panel, but also disassembling it (to a degree). First time job - give yourself two hours and make sure you have the correct hex screwdrivers, extra plastic clips (for the door panel since one is always bound to break), plenty of patience and a helper.
1. Start by lowering your window - then start removing the door panel - not as simple as some make it sound. Yes, you remove the SRS badge and the small screw inside there (hint - make sure you use a magnetic tip on your screwdriver). You then remove the 6 or 7 hex bolts holding in the silver plastic cover at the back of the door (covering the latch). Don't forget about the one way at the bottom.
2. Once you've got that done, remove the triangle piece up by the mirror mount. That one also can be a little tricky, since theres a plastic clip that snaps into the metal mold in the body - which came right off with the entire piece - well, at least mine did. Be careful to remove this plastic clip from the triangle cover if it does and set it aside in order to put it back properly.
3. Removing the door panel - the fun part. The clips do start at the bottom, but one needs to be careful when pulling the panel. Don't rip it off. There is about 6 of them, and they run along the bottom then a little bit upwards. This takes time and patience. Once you're confident you've got the clips detached, start applying even pressure pulling upwards and out. As much as you may think there are more clips or a screw holding the panel in place, there isn't- when you take the panel off you'll see that the resistance that you feel is just the way the panel sits in the actual metal door frame. Of course, as careful as you are, a clip is bound to break (as in the case with mine). Make sure you have a few extras (pick them up when you get the switch). Two people are better at tackling this, since each can pull upwards with even pressure. Again, as someone else noted, be careful that the panel pulls up OVER the lock. (this is also why two people are good for this job).
4. Once the panel is successfully off the door, have your buddy hold the panel while you disconnect all the electronic connections and then the door handle. WAIT - don't reach for the beer yet. Still a bunch more to go.
5. Set the panel face down on a nice, scratch resistant surface (i.e. a large towel). As you've probably noticed, the switch sits in the door pull. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold that door pull to the door panel. These need to be removed. When you have the panel upside down, you'll see them - they are hex. There is one or two on the top, and two on the bottom of the door pull. The bottom ones are tough to see, but they're there.
6. Once these are removed, flip the door panel so it's facing you. Open the side compartment that's in the door panel and you'll see a very small screw hex screw that looks like it screws - it's located towards the bottom of that door pull. Remove it but be careful - too much pressure and you'll break the piece that it screws into. (ask me how I know)
7. Once that's out, the door pull is sort of angled into the panel itself. You have to pull it up and towards you.
8. So one would think - OK I have this damn thing off now, simple pop out and pop in. Nope. See step 9.
9. Now that's in your hand, look at the door pull from a side angle. You'll see that there are two plastic sort of soft-triangle clips that hold the switch itself inside the door pull (I wish I had pics to show you). These need to removed with a flat head screw driver. Take note of how there placed in there, because you'll be putting them back once you've got the new one in.
10. Once those are removed, lift the switch up and out (this needs some coersion and again is not as easy as it sounds). Put the new one in, reclip those two clips, put the door pull back in, put all your screws back, have your buddy hold the door panel up to the car while you plug everything back in (don't forget the door handle itself), slide the door panel over the lock, make sure you push towards the door and down, it should lock in. Oh and make sure you replace the clips you broke PRIOR to putting the door panel back on. Once the door seems to be in place, snap those clips back. Put your screw back in behind the SRS badge, put the SRS badge back, replace your silver trim piece along the back of the door, put your triangle piece back in (again, being careful to put the clip itself back into the door, then snapping the piece into that clip - you'll see what I mean).
Like I said, not as easy of a job as one would think. One other quick point - this is for a 2003 SL500 - I'm not sure if it's different on successive model years.
Good luck!
06-14-2020, 10:50 AM
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R230 SL350
Thanks njcycleguy for this write up. Changing my switch was a doddle thanks to your detailed guide. All done in about an hour and twenty minutes. You certainly saved me a world of pain!
