SL/R230: aftermarket navigation system for 2003 SL500
03-20-2011, 10:56 PM
#2
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07 S550 & 05 SL55
pioneer avic z110,z120, or z130
pioneer makes great units and the interface is great too
ive had a z110bt in my sti for a few years now and i am really happy with it
check out you tube they have a bunch of videos showing the interface
pioneer makes great units and the interface is great too
ive had a z110bt in my sti for a few years now and i am really happy with it
check out you tube they have a bunch of videos showing the interface
03-21-2011, 01:50 PM
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2007 E63, 2015 Tesla, 2013 911S Cab
I've looked into this and it's not cheap. Realize the whole sound system needs to be replaced and rewired since the SL uses a optical interface for the sound system. I was quoted from 1500 - 2000 to do this. Doesn't seem worth it as i now just use my android phone for navigation (it seems better than most of the systems out there anyway). A phone mount is surely a lot cheaper.
Eric
Eric
04-14-2011, 08:21 PM
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SL500
I saw a 07 porsche carrera with a Avic z130bt in it and it looks nice. The car had a bose sound system and the guy said that they had to add a 6 channel amplifier to hook it up to the stock system. Don't know if the porsche's bose is the same as mercedes but worth asking about, don't know how much that amplifier cost but probably cheaper to buy and install than to have all the speakers changed.
I was also considering it and with how the stock nav is... i really think 2k is worth it to change...
I was also considering it and with how the stock nav is... i really think 2k is worth it to change...
06-02-2012, 12:44 AM
#6
There is a low budget way to mount and use the exsisting Bose System with a aftermarket head unit. But you'd have to give up any hope of using the steering wheel controls other than volume. It will take you between 5 to 8 hours of solid work to put it in. If you can live with that (occasionally) managing two volume controls let me know and I'll post the instructions. Also you'll be permanently altering the cd changer storage box ($130 to replace if you decide to convert it back to stock). Never used the space anyway.
06-09-2012, 12:10 PM
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SL500
Will this work for a 2006 SL? I'd be very interested because I am looking for a way to install this unit... http://www.cargpsnet.com/mercedes-sl...580-p-525.html. thanks for the help.
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06-13-2012, 10:29 AM
#8
SL 500 Basic add-on stereo configuration. This allows you to keep the Bose amp/system factory and saves you a few bucks as well. The only two caveats to this configuration are that you’ll lose the storage space behind the driver’s seat, irreparable damage to the lower storage tray (replacement cost is approximately $112.00), and you’ll on occasion be required to adjust the Command volume (this can be done by using the steering wheel control) just as you would if you connected your iPod into the AUX input (because this is all that we’re doing anyway). And you lose the little bit of storage space that was next to the CD Changer .Also you’ll want/need to install a glare/screen protector for when the top is down. Wal-Mart sells the iPod film for 20 bones and it’s easy to work with and Best Buy Sells a version for 40 bones and is a royal pain to work with, but in the end you’ll end up ordering and installing Nushield DayVue NU308A (I had to cut an 8th of an inch off the end for a perfect fit). In this instance I’m installing the Cargpsnet.com R230 head unit and I did not opt to set up my TV antenna. In the pictures you’ll see that I’ve connected a Garmin GVN53 to the AUX input of the new unit, that’s to receive XM radio service and bonus NAV (MB GPS uses the same antenna connection as the Garmin).
Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for any damage that you may inflict upon your car. My install is working flawlessly and I have not observed any adverse events thus far. These are my personal notes from the installation that I performed on my 2003 Mercedes SL500 (R230) in May of 2012. Please read through all of my notes before you start your project.
Drop the top! For comfort and ease of movement.
First be sure that both your head/command unit and Aux input are functioning properly (Access the Aux function through the SVC button on the Command). Next disconnect the battery in the trunk, then remove the command unit and the cup holder set it aside for now (procedure can be found in the forums/be sure to cover and protect the gear shift knob and the cup hold (masking tape works fine). Once you’ve removed the Command unit you’ll need to remove the storage box/arm rest (at least so it’s out of the way for later) in the center console; be aware that there are 2 screws in the back, 2 hidden screws at the front, and 2 nuts at the rear on the bottom under the $26.00 felt cover, and the lock actuator at the front of the box (snaps out). Next remove the rear center piece (you’ve already removed the screws that hold this end). Now go to the driver side and remove the corner trim piece (the shiny thing with the 4 torx screws (2 in the door jam and 2 on the inside) and the panel directly in front of the storage box (just snaps off) and remove the screw you’ll find there then you can remove the rear corner trim panel. I recommend that you do the other side as well then remove the 4 screws (2 on each side) holding the back panel in place (you won’t need to pull it out of the car, you just need to be able to move it up a few inches) to remove the driver’s side storage box. Now for some fun; remove the 2 screws holding the CD changer side storage box in place in the front and loosen the 2 hidden screws in the back (the box hangs on these). At this point you should be able to pick the entire storage box up and turn it over so you can disconnect the CD changer. Once disconnected, remove it and the divider plate (2 bendable tabs) from the box and set it aside (or sell it on eBay, but I’d suggest that you hang on to it).
We’ll take a break from taking things apart for a bit!
Go to the big hole we left when we removed the Command unit. Slowly and carefully work the Fiber Optic cable back to the other big hole (CD changer area) so we can reconnect it to the Command later on. Next we need to reposition the amp; I suggest a trip to your local hardware store for a couple of angle brackets and an extension. Try to find something with a lot of adjustments/option or lots of holes, but strong enough to hold the amp in place. Now turn the amp on its side and bolt it back in place.
Now for even more fun!
Warning: Deviation from the suggested electrical and fiber optics connections and wiring into other power sources can and will cause other systems to malfunctions.
You have 17 wires to extend (you’ll about six feet, but 8 will make life easier), so take your time and double check each connection. Work your wires up to the front first, start soldering (or wire splice connectors) at the front and once you have each connection completed at the front and then the do the rear.
Let’s move to the rear center console area and remove the CD Changer fiber optics from the D2b loop (or you can just order a Loop connector; good luck, I still haven’t received mine). The rectangular looking blocks have little metal tabs that pull up and unlock to release the fiber optics. Locate the CD changer Fiber optics and remove it from the “d2b Ring” and reconnect the left over end to close the “d2b Ring” and tuck the remaining fiber optics out of the way of the arm rest’s moving parts.
Now let’s cut up that storage box and install the command unit in the rear.
Storage box replacement: www. genuinemercedesparts.com >Collision Catalog - 2003 - Mercedes-Benz - SL500 body hardware, quarter panel, interior trim, storage compartment Left$112.00
You only need to cut out the area where the amp and the Command will occupy (See photo/ remove the minimal amount of material).
Be mindful of the snaps on the back when cutting (you’ll see). Okay for the truly hard part; You’ll need to mount the Command unit to the Storage Box so that it can close without making contact with the unit (remember we need as much space as possible for the fiber optics and wiring harness at the bottom). Once that’s done remove the Command unit and re-install the Storage Box (be mindful of your fiber optics and wiring harness) and now you can connect and re-install the Command unit into the storage box. Garnish the area in the storage box as you see fit; you’ll only need to get in there if you disconnect the battery or it goes dead to reset the head unit to AUX. I choose not to do anything to allow any heat to escape; I plan to at least install a screen type material to keep foreign objects from finding their way in.
If you did a good job on the wiring and fiber optics all will be well. At this point you can reconnect the battery in the trunk and the Command should function as normal (with the exception that we have no antennas or CD changer and oh yeah it may not shut down when you turn the car off; you may need to start the car and shut it off once. Don’t be overly concerned here as it will reset itself).
Okay assuming the relocation went well we can now install your new radio/head unit. Assuming you tapped that Big Juicy Battery wire (easy to find if you didn’t) you only need a few more connections. On the new unit connect the “Battery” to “Big Juicy”, then the accessory wire to the cigarette light power wire (if I’m not mistaken it’s the one nearest the passenger side when installed (the fat brown one) and the ground wire to the Electrical Eyelet connector and then loosen one of the screws from the center console behind the gear shift and screw down there. Now connect the Front RCA audio out connectors to the 3.5 mm to RCA cable (the one you purchased). Drill a hole big enough to pass the 3.5 mm to RCA cable (USB and iPod connectors) into the glove box directly between/centered the Aux connection point and the vent (be sure to move the air hose clear of the area and that the Aux connector attach to the side of the glove box is clear as well).
Finish installing the new unit and do a function test (prepare to smile a bit).
Once everything checks out, put all of the trim back on the car and go for a ride.
Additional Note: As a reminder, you’ll be required on occasion to adjust the Command’s volume and the new radio volume. I personally noted that I make these adjustments when transitioning from top up to top down position but only at speed on the highway for extra volume and at the same time I tend not to crank the newly installed radio’s volume all the way up (80% max). When the radio is not playing music and you should happen to hear a hissing sound turn down the command’s volume.
Parts list:
Electrical Connectors and or soldering iron and heat shrink/electrical tape.
Electrical Eyelet connector for ground wire.
Four 90 degree brackets and 2 extensions.
Enough Nuts, bolts, and washers to remount the Command unit and amp.
3.5 mm to RCA cable (Walmart, Radio, Shack, Best Buy, etc)
Nushield DayVue NU308A (recommended for your Command even if you decide not to do this mod).
Double din rack and flateplate for other radios ( Installer.com)
Igo8 software
Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for any damage that you may inflict upon your car. My install is working flawlessly and I have not observed any adverse events thus far. These are my personal notes from the installation that I performed on my 2003 Mercedes SL500 (R230) in May of 2012. Please read through all of my notes before you start your project.
Drop the top! For comfort and ease of movement.
First be sure that both your head/command unit and Aux input are functioning properly (Access the Aux function through the SVC button on the Command). Next disconnect the battery in the trunk, then remove the command unit and the cup holder set it aside for now (procedure can be found in the forums/be sure to cover and protect the gear shift knob and the cup hold (masking tape works fine). Once you’ve removed the Command unit you’ll need to remove the storage box/arm rest (at least so it’s out of the way for later) in the center console; be aware that there are 2 screws in the back, 2 hidden screws at the front, and 2 nuts at the rear on the bottom under the $26.00 felt cover, and the lock actuator at the front of the box (snaps out). Next remove the rear center piece (you’ve already removed the screws that hold this end). Now go to the driver side and remove the corner trim piece (the shiny thing with the 4 torx screws (2 in the door jam and 2 on the inside) and the panel directly in front of the storage box (just snaps off) and remove the screw you’ll find there then you can remove the rear corner trim panel. I recommend that you do the other side as well then remove the 4 screws (2 on each side) holding the back panel in place (you won’t need to pull it out of the car, you just need to be able to move it up a few inches) to remove the driver’s side storage box. Now for some fun; remove the 2 screws holding the CD changer side storage box in place in the front and loosen the 2 hidden screws in the back (the box hangs on these). At this point you should be able to pick the entire storage box up and turn it over so you can disconnect the CD changer. Once disconnected, remove it and the divider plate (2 bendable tabs) from the box and set it aside (or sell it on eBay, but I’d suggest that you hang on to it).
We’ll take a break from taking things apart for a bit!
Go to the big hole we left when we removed the Command unit. Slowly and carefully work the Fiber Optic cable back to the other big hole (CD changer area) so we can reconnect it to the Command later on. Next we need to reposition the amp; I suggest a trip to your local hardware store for a couple of angle brackets and an extension. Try to find something with a lot of adjustments/option or lots of holes, but strong enough to hold the amp in place. Now turn the amp on its side and bolt it back in place.
Now for even more fun!
Warning: Deviation from the suggested electrical and fiber optics connections and wiring into other power sources can and will cause other systems to malfunctions.
You have 17 wires to extend (you’ll about six feet, but 8 will make life easier), so take your time and double check each connection. Work your wires up to the front first, start soldering (or wire splice connectors) at the front and once you have each connection completed at the front and then the do the rear.
Note: You can use the large yellow and red/orange wire in the cars Command harness for your new stereo “Battery” connection but no others.
Now let’s cut up that storage box and install the command unit in the rear.
Storage box replacement: www. genuinemercedesparts.com >Collision Catalog - 2003 - Mercedes-Benz - SL500 body hardware, quarter panel, interior trim, storage compartment Left$112.00
Warning: Do not remove any screws or springs from the lid or you’ll be dammed/ suffer the pain and agony of putting it back together.
Be mindful of the snaps on the back when cutting (you’ll see). Okay for the truly hard part; You’ll need to mount the Command unit to the Storage Box so that it can close without making contact with the unit (remember we need as much space as possible for the fiber optics and wiring harness at the bottom). Once that’s done remove the Command unit and re-install the Storage Box (be mindful of your fiber optics and wiring harness) and now you can connect and re-install the Command unit into the storage box. Garnish the area in the storage box as you see fit; you’ll only need to get in there if you disconnect the battery or it goes dead to reset the head unit to AUX. I choose not to do anything to allow any heat to escape; I plan to at least install a screen type material to keep foreign objects from finding their way in.
If you did a good job on the wiring and fiber optics all will be well. At this point you can reconnect the battery in the trunk and the Command should function as normal (with the exception that we have no antennas or CD changer and oh yeah it may not shut down when you turn the car off; you may need to start the car and shut it off once. Don’t be overly concerned here as it will reset itself).
Okay assuming the relocation went well we can now install your new radio/head unit. Assuming you tapped that Big Juicy Battery wire (easy to find if you didn’t) you only need a few more connections. On the new unit connect the “Battery” to “Big Juicy”, then the accessory wire to the cigarette light power wire (if I’m not mistaken it’s the one nearest the passenger side when installed (the fat brown one) and the ground wire to the Electrical Eyelet connector and then loosen one of the screws from the center console behind the gear shift and screw down there. Now connect the Front RCA audio out connectors to the 3.5 mm to RCA cable (the one you purchased). Drill a hole big enough to pass the 3.5 mm to RCA cable (USB and iPod connectors) into the glove box directly between/centered the Aux connection point and the vent (be sure to move the air hose clear of the area and that the Aux connector attach to the side of the glove box is clear as well).
Finish installing the new unit and do a function test (prepare to smile a bit).
Caution: Never allow the Cars antenna wire make contact with cars ground or any other component while the car is in the on position, be sure that this is connected to the radio before turning on power.
Additional Note: As a reminder, you’ll be required on occasion to adjust the Command’s volume and the new radio volume. I personally noted that I make these adjustments when transitioning from top up to top down position but only at speed on the highway for extra volume and at the same time I tend not to crank the newly installed radio’s volume all the way up (80% max). When the radio is not playing music and you should happen to hear a hissing sound turn down the command’s volume.
Parts list:
Electrical Connectors and or soldering iron and heat shrink/electrical tape.
Electrical Eyelet connector for ground wire.
Four 90 degree brackets and 2 extensions.
Enough Nuts, bolts, and washers to remount the Command unit and amp.
3.5 mm to RCA cable (Walmart, Radio, Shack, Best Buy, etc)
Nushield DayVue NU308A (recommended for your Command even if you decide not to do this mod).
Double din rack and flateplate for other radios ( Installer.com)
Igo8 software
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jeffdsl500 (12-24-2020)
06-13-2012, 10:59 AM
#9
Photo for my notes
Photo's listed under "R230 low budget aftermarket radio install" or https://mbworld.org/forums/members/t...o-install.html
Last edited by therednsx; 06-13-2012 at 11:02 AM.
06-13-2012, 11:01 AM
#10
06-13-2012, 11:25 AM
#11
Not sure about the 2006; due to the radio surround and fiber optics and how they are installed. Personally it would be worth a look to see if it can be done. You might be able to get Specialists at Specialistscaraudio.com to make you a piece of matching trim to fill in the gap to give it a factory look. You could pitch to them that 37988 R230 SL's (2005-2011) were sold in America with the same issue. The other 44,536 were built before they made the change (2001-2004).
06-25-2012, 09:43 AM
#12
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I was wondering how good your FM reception is on the new radio. These cars have a complicated antenna switching/amplifying system that uses feedback from the COMAND unit (specifically an IF signal feedback that the antenna amp uses to switch between 4 separate windshield antennas depending on the interference). My FM reception is bad, especially higher frequencies. (I installed a Pioneer AVIC 140, two new amps, and steering wheel interface to use the volume and up/down buttons). I believe the new head is only getting the AM antenna signals cleanly (there are two AM antennas, one in the rear window and the other the rear shelf for when the top is down). A local installer claims these new radios have bad tuner circuitry, that factory radios are better and that's why, but I don't believe Pioneer is putting out a $1,000 radio that has lousy FM performance. I do realize that the HD radio signals require higher levels, but even the analog FM stations are weak at best, and essentially unusable where there are a lot of hills and valleys.
06-25-2012, 11:24 PM
#13
The original head unit is still a part of my audio system and is powered on during during operation of the aftermaket unit. The reception is fine and in most instances prefect. This was one of the factors in the decision to do the install the way that I did it. You've already removed the head unit, amp, and speakers in your car; looks like you may have one last item to address. I wonder if you can bypass the antenna amplifer and add your own and then supply power from the cigerette lighters power line to a aftermarket set up.
06-26-2012, 10:16 AM
#14
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when i removed the COMAND I noticed there was an "extra" coax cable, square plug - I say extra because I could not figure out what it was for. it was not the antenna, and not the GPS antenna. I don't have a factory phone. so after learning about the amplifiers, and the IF (intermediate frequency) feedback loop, it made sense that this was what the "extra" coax line was for. Yet I doubt you extended this cable to the back, you most likely just extended all the regular wires in the harnesses to the COMAND, right?
The fact your aftermarket FM reception is good without the IF feedback makes me wonder it my amplifier is simply bad, which can happen from static or touching the center tip to ground I am told. Not sure how to diagnose.
Also I am not 110% sure I have the antenna amplifier powered up correctly, I did hook the blue/white from the new head unit to the blue in the factory harness, believing this would give the antenna amp the needed voltage.
The fact your aftermarket FM reception is good without the IF feedback makes me wonder it my amplifier is simply bad, which can happen from static or touching the center tip to ground I am told. Not sure how to diagnose.
Also I am not 110% sure I have the antenna amplifier powered up correctly, I did hook the blue/white from the new head unit to the blue in the factory harness, believing this would give the antenna amp the needed voltage.
08-09-2012, 12:47 AM
#15
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03 SL500, 07 S550, 92 500SEL
Cheaper is Better
I picked a 4.3 Tom Tom with the low profile suction cup mount and attached it right to my Comand Screen. I then purchased a small spring loaded mini usb to power it. The Via series TT has bluetooth. I have Sirius in the glove box using the aux input and the TT on the radio screen. So for about 250 tops I have very current nav unlike the OEM my car has and great tunes that required nearly no mods to the car except power.
11-09-2012, 03:09 PM
#17
The problem there is that's a tasty treat for vandals. I have a drawer full of Garmins, but I typically leave the top down for most stops unless I'm going to be away from the car for a while. Not to sound too condescending; the drive in my Command unit went out and when I found out how much it cost to repair I choose the $623 option. The unit looks great and I made use of the GVN 53 I had sitting in a box (which is displayed on the TT), my old ipod, a thumb drive, and two SD cards. The part I like most is that I can update a DVD RW to synch with my Amazon Cloud music or phone to use in the DVD drive and my wife likes it and the techs at the dealer are fascinated by it. Oh; and my car has great tunes too. With that being said; I used a Garmin C550 in my BMW for 7 years through the audio input and it was a pretty freaking amazing piece of kit; GPS, Bluetooth, Traffic, MP3 and during last couple of years lifetime maps which the unit still gets and I now use it in my Honda Element. I bought some 765T’s a while back but we still love our Garmin C550’s in our daily drivers and anytime we travel (the Europe SD was a bit pricey). I don't usually modify my cars unless it serves a better purpose, for example I installed this head unit in my SL500 and I added the Canadian (Honda) NSX driving lights to my 1991 NSX and a K&N filter). As for the cheaper is better bit; I see you have an SL500 and not a BYD S8 Convertible.
11-11-2012, 02:30 PM
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03 SL500, 07 S550, 92 500SEL
Will this work for a 2006 SL? I'd be very interested because I am looking for a way to install this unit... http://www.cargpsnet.com/mercedes-sl...580-p-525.html. thanks for the help.
Well did it work???
12-14-2012, 12:07 PM
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2003 SL500
iPad mini is going to be going in my dash as the radio hopefully sometime before April once I get the rest of the kit together. Already have the mini, just have to get amps, speakers, etc
01-08-2013, 04:40 PM
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
I was asked to chime in on the topic, but basically if you want to keep the amps and speakers there is an interface to alleviate some of the financial burden of it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-electronics/466505-replacing-comand-just-got-easier.html
as for the ipad mini, that would be sweet, I was thinking of doing it also but it doesn't have the retina display, plus I still don't like the idea of no external video input reliably like a back up camera. I bought a surface rt, though that was just too wide. I am still considering it though...
https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-electronics/466505-replacing-comand-just-got-easier.html
as for the ipad mini, that would be sweet, I was thinking of doing it also but it doesn't have the retina display, plus I still don't like the idea of no external video input reliably like a back up camera. I bought a surface rt, though that was just too wide. I am still considering it though...
01-08-2013, 04:43 PM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Also that china car electronics fake MB radio is complete garbage, been there, did that, never again. there is a reason why the Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, Alpines are a little bit more pricey... because they work like they are supposed to.
01-20-2013, 10:16 AM
#24
I played around a while with add-ons like the bluetooth puck, and other hardware and finally decided the hell with it and went and talked to a pro installer. I wanted a touchsreen, full nav, music storage, video, iphone, bluetooth, etc. AND I wanted the steering wheel controls to still work with the radio. I have an early 2004 and with the MOST wiring, wasn't 100% comfortable tackling it alone or had the time to spend pulling panels and figuring things out.
The only thing the installer really needed to replace was the amp. Speakers and everything else remained stock. The one squirrelly thing was the mounting bracket. In mid-2004 Mercedes swapped out the radio and wiring system. And easy way to tell is that if you have an earlier model, then the wood burl wraps around the sides and top of the radio. If you have a later model, the radio fills the entire space above the cup holders. Another noticeable change is in the later models is that the edges of the cup holders are square against the sides of the trim and the earlier models are curved around the lower left and lower right edges.
Option 1 was to gut the fascia from the old radio, fill it with fiberglass and create a new frame. Option 2 was to get a ready-made kit that Pioneer manufactures (see link below), and cut the top off the wood burl frame.
I went with option 2, however wasn't totally pleased with the look in the end. I eventually bought an old 2005+ cup holder off ebay and swapped it out to get more of a 2005+ look. Interesting note about the cup holder is that the face pieces snap right off -- just twist up on them slightly. So rather than replacing the entire cup holder unit, I just unsnapped the old 2004 (rounded edge) face pieces, and snapped on the newer 2005 (squared edge).
So you're wondering what the cost was ... about $2500 all in. Roughly $1,500 for the radio, and another $1,000 for extra parts and labor. Before you freak out though ... here's something else to note. I wound up selling all the old parts and pieces on ebay, including: The command unit, the old amp, the old cell phone and wiring, the old NAV cds, the old CD changer, etc. And wound up recouping just under $1,000. So my actual expense was only around $1,500, and the cost of the extra parts and labor zeroed out. Not too bad for a top of the line unit.
I'm very happy while driving. The Garmin built-in NAV is great, my entire music library runs off a single thumb-drive (loads up fast too), the iPhone/Bluetooth works great, and more. And the steering wheel controls all work too. Plus I got some extra space back in the driver-side storage compartment. (Only drawback is the control to reset the clock built into the dash was inside the old head unit. Still need to figure that one out.)
Here's some links if this helps illustrate that it is possible to get new technology into an older SL500. This is NOT a comprehensive list, as there were more parts and pieces. I wouldn't recommend this as a do it yourself project unless you have plenty of extra time ... go see a pro installer.
ICE nationwide network of radio installer (In Car Experts)
http://www.incarexperts.com/
Kenwood DNX9990HD
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entert...tion/dnx9990hd
Pioneer SL500 Double DIN Kit
http://www.pioneer.eu/files/eur/car_.../391190-25.pdf
available here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-CT23MB11.html
Explanation of SL500 MOST wiring
http://www.collectionautosports.com/...ent-2004-sl500
Steering wheel controls (PAC SWIRC and PAC SWI-CAN2)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SWI-RC.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SWI-CAN2.html
AMP
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-PBR300X1.html
The only thing the installer really needed to replace was the amp. Speakers and everything else remained stock. The one squirrelly thing was the mounting bracket. In mid-2004 Mercedes swapped out the radio and wiring system. And easy way to tell is that if you have an earlier model, then the wood burl wraps around the sides and top of the radio. If you have a later model, the radio fills the entire space above the cup holders. Another noticeable change is in the later models is that the edges of the cup holders are square against the sides of the trim and the earlier models are curved around the lower left and lower right edges.
Option 1 was to gut the fascia from the old radio, fill it with fiberglass and create a new frame. Option 2 was to get a ready-made kit that Pioneer manufactures (see link below), and cut the top off the wood burl frame.
I went with option 2, however wasn't totally pleased with the look in the end. I eventually bought an old 2005+ cup holder off ebay and swapped it out to get more of a 2005+ look. Interesting note about the cup holder is that the face pieces snap right off -- just twist up on them slightly. So rather than replacing the entire cup holder unit, I just unsnapped the old 2004 (rounded edge) face pieces, and snapped on the newer 2005 (squared edge).
So you're wondering what the cost was ... about $2500 all in. Roughly $1,500 for the radio, and another $1,000 for extra parts and labor. Before you freak out though ... here's something else to note. I wound up selling all the old parts and pieces on ebay, including: The command unit, the old amp, the old cell phone and wiring, the old NAV cds, the old CD changer, etc. And wound up recouping just under $1,000. So my actual expense was only around $1,500, and the cost of the extra parts and labor zeroed out. Not too bad for a top of the line unit.
I'm very happy while driving. The Garmin built-in NAV is great, my entire music library runs off a single thumb-drive (loads up fast too), the iPhone/Bluetooth works great, and more. And the steering wheel controls all work too. Plus I got some extra space back in the driver-side storage compartment. (Only drawback is the control to reset the clock built into the dash was inside the old head unit. Still need to figure that one out.)
Here's some links if this helps illustrate that it is possible to get new technology into an older SL500. This is NOT a comprehensive list, as there were more parts and pieces. I wouldn't recommend this as a do it yourself project unless you have plenty of extra time ... go see a pro installer.
ICE nationwide network of radio installer (In Car Experts)
http://www.incarexperts.com/
Kenwood DNX9990HD
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entert...tion/dnx9990hd
Pioneer SL500 Double DIN Kit
http://www.pioneer.eu/files/eur/car_.../391190-25.pdf
available here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-CT23MB11.html
Explanation of SL500 MOST wiring
http://www.collectionautosports.com/...ent-2004-sl500
Steering wheel controls (PAC SWIRC and PAC SWI-CAN2)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SWI-RC.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SWI-CAN2.html
AMP
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-PBR300X1.html
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01-15-2014, 10:07 AM
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sl55 amg
IPAD Mini with stock command unit
There is another way of getting the desired result that we (owners of the older 2.0 command unit in the 2003-2005 cars) are all looking for, which is to retain the stock functions in the car, but upgrade to the latest electronics. Here's the skinny:
For the past 5 years, I have been using the stock command unit with a DICE unit/bluetooth set up in the place of the old stock CD unit. The system works great and I can use my phone (bluetoothed in) or ipod (direct connect) to play music by selecting "CD" on the command unit. Because of this set up, I have never had to use the "aux" input function. With this set up, the command unit simply processes the DICE input, thinking it is a CD that is playing. Everything else on the command unit worked the same.
But I wanted to go further and really upgrade to state of the art looks and functions of the IPAD. So I figured out how to use my IPAD mini as the control for the command system instead of my Iphone or Ipod. This was very easy because the IPAD mini also pairs to the DICE bluetooth just like my phone. The problem was how or where to mount the IPAD mini. Well it just so happens that Johnny Gomez in Phoenix actually builds an IPAD mini holder in dash in the same place where the stock unit once was. He charges a fair price and his result is fabulous. Look it up on YOU TUBE under "mercedes IPAD Mini" or "Johnny Gomez". So after I solved that problem, the next problem was where to relocate the command unit? The answer was move it to the rear storage compartment, just as described in this thread!!! It works PERFECTLY!!! And now when I want the web on my IPAD mini to get navigation, goggle maps, etc., I use the "personal hotspot" function on my iphone 5 and it connects to the IPAD mini and BINGO, it works perfectly as well!!! Doing most of the work myself, the cost to do this is WAYYYY LESSSS than gutting the car and doing an aftermarket install. Best of all, the functions (steering wheel, mercedes phone, etc) in the car all remain "normal" and nothing looks cooler than the IPAD mini in the dash! BTW, based on Johnny's design, it is sooooo easy to remove the IPAD and put back in. It even looks great when it is out.
And so, I am now driving around my 2003 SL55 with an IPAD mini custom installed in the dash, with all of the other things in the car working like they have been for years...nothing could be better.
Cheers, Joe
For the past 5 years, I have been using the stock command unit with a DICE unit/bluetooth set up in the place of the old stock CD unit. The system works great and I can use my phone (bluetoothed in) or ipod (direct connect) to play music by selecting "CD" on the command unit. Because of this set up, I have never had to use the "aux" input function. With this set up, the command unit simply processes the DICE input, thinking it is a CD that is playing. Everything else on the command unit worked the same.
But I wanted to go further and really upgrade to state of the art looks and functions of the IPAD. So I figured out how to use my IPAD mini as the control for the command system instead of my Iphone or Ipod. This was very easy because the IPAD mini also pairs to the DICE bluetooth just like my phone. The problem was how or where to mount the IPAD mini. Well it just so happens that Johnny Gomez in Phoenix actually builds an IPAD mini holder in dash in the same place where the stock unit once was. He charges a fair price and his result is fabulous. Look it up on YOU TUBE under "mercedes IPAD Mini" or "Johnny Gomez". So after I solved that problem, the next problem was where to relocate the command unit? The answer was move it to the rear storage compartment, just as described in this thread!!! It works PERFECTLY!!! And now when I want the web on my IPAD mini to get navigation, goggle maps, etc., I use the "personal hotspot" function on my iphone 5 and it connects to the IPAD mini and BINGO, it works perfectly as well!!! Doing most of the work myself, the cost to do this is WAYYYY LESSSS than gutting the car and doing an aftermarket install. Best of all, the functions (steering wheel, mercedes phone, etc) in the car all remain "normal" and nothing looks cooler than the IPAD mini in the dash! BTW, based on Johnny's design, it is sooooo easy to remove the IPAD and put back in. It even looks great when it is out.
And so, I am now driving around my 2003 SL55 with an IPAD mini custom installed in the dash, with all of the other things in the car working like they have been for years...nothing could be better.
Cheers, Joe
