rover75golf

Drove into the garage and noticed oil leaking from just behind front left hand side wheel. Checked out posts and its an ABC leak. Removed the wheel and the inner arch covers and found oil which appeared to be coming from the valve. ON closer inspection it appears that the seal between the body of the valve and the electric switch has broken / frayed !! see pictures. Question I have is can I remove the switch and replace the seal or is it an integral part of the valve ?any ideas suggestions welcome ? Thanks

kbob999

Search posts for valve block seals DIY.
You should be able to find seals for the electronic valves that others have used successfully.
If the leak is from a hose seal, you will need to do more searching...not sure of the size, or if it can be repaired.
If the leak is the accumulator, then replace it.
New these blocks are over $1000, so it's a great savings to repair rather than replace.

next2pool

It looks like that switch will just unscrew. Since we use mineral oil, I would take the switch and go to your local hardware store and find an O ring that fits the threaded portion. Hopefully there is a relief in the surface between the switch and the housing for the seal to sit into. If not, it may require a square seal.

rover75golf

Thanks for the help and will try to sort over the weekend

rover75golf

Ok thanks for the help. Took of left hand inner skirt under wing. Found that the seal on the sensor had degraded and oil leaking from the joint. Removed the valve from its mounting and removed sensor. Fairly easy job. Had some problems iin finding the right seal but sorted and reinstalled. Topped up system with oil. Started engine but abc did not work and red warning lights came on !! After much checking and searching I removed the electrical connection from the sensor and cleaned it. Cleaned both the mIl and female connectors and sprayed with some we 40. Plugged it in and the system came to life. So a relatively easy and simple fix at a cost of about 50$ for the oil and the seal. Only tough part was reinstalling the inner wing guard. Mainly because I was working in the floor as I'd don't have a lift there is one little bolt at the back that is a pig to get in when your lying on the floor, thanks for the help and responses.

next2pool

Fantastic !

mkirincic

So Where did you get the seal? Was it just an O ring type seal or did you have to go to the dealer to buy it?

rover75golf

I bought the seal from a local factor who specialised in repairing hydraulics on earthmoving equipment. Its a Viton seal and a its a standard o ring size so should not be a problem to buy one anywhere.

hlmpk

If your car is a 2002 model (or has mileage more than 50 or 60K), you might change the pressure accumulator (~$150) as well, while you had the block out (that's fine, if later on, you experience vibrations in your ABC system, you can change it.)

FaithMartin

Guys, I understand that my question is a little bit off-topic, but maybe you know... How do I know if my hydraulic valve is bad? How can I test a hydraulic system? I was advised to switch to an electro-hydraulic actuator control valve and I'm still confused about what to do. This has many advantages such as very low power consumption, simple Installation, 100% duty cycle, and so on. I've really been thinking about this idea for a few months now. How do you think it is worth doing this? Thank you for your advice in advance!