SL/R230: Hydraulic Top Fluid
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hydraulic Top Fluid
My roof operates, but I'm losing fluid. I have the bottom of the trunk removed and there isn't any fluid at the bottom like there was when the trunk lock and the trunk lift were leaking.
This leads me to believe it might be the roll bar cylinder that could be leaking. Does that seem right? How do you gain access to the roll bar cylinders?
Thank you,
Tim
This leads me to believe it might be the roll bar cylinder that could be leaking. Does that seem right? How do you gain access to the roll bar cylinders?
Thank you,
Tim
#2
Super Member
I've never heard of roll bar hydraulics leaking before. Are you sure it's not the top? More likely it's somewhere in the roof.
The roof headliner panel can hold quite a bit of fluid. Run your fingers along under the weatherstrip at the top of the driver/passenger windows. Any fluid at all and you have a leak.
You could also remove the headliner with 5 Torx screws and see if there are issues. You will need to prop the top open while doing this with a short padded 2x4. The back window side pieces are also very easy to remove.
Or keep filling the reservoir until the leak is found. It's going somewhere.
The roof headliner panel can hold quite a bit of fluid. Run your fingers along under the weatherstrip at the top of the driver/passenger windows. Any fluid at all and you have a leak.
You could also remove the headliner with 5 Torx screws and see if there are issues. You will need to prop the top open while doing this with a short padded 2x4. The back window side pieces are also very easy to remove.
Or keep filling the reservoir until the leak is found. It's going somewhere.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
kbob,
Thanks for the reply. The locking cylinder would be easier to address than the roll bar. I have only had the car for 4 weeks and was under the impression from the prior owner that the locking cylinder had already been addressed. Guess I had better check.
Thanks again. I will let you know what I find.
Tim
Thanks for the reply. The locking cylinder would be easier to address than the roll bar. I have only had the car for 4 weeks and was under the impression from the prior owner that the locking cylinder had already been addressed. Guess I had better check.
Thanks again. I will let you know what I find.
Tim
#4
Senior Member
kbob999: Can you tell me how long to cut a 2x4 for use as a roof prop? I'd like to have one cut and ready ... although I'll probably use a piece of PVC pipe ... for use if my roof ever ever needs servicing. I've seen photos of the tool MB uses for that purpose, but I can't make a reliable guess as to the proper length. Many thanks.
#5
Super Member
kbob999: Can you tell me how long to cut a 2x4 for use as a roof prop? I'd like to have one cut and ready ... although I'll probably use a piece of PVC pipe ... for use if my roof ever ever needs servicing. I've seen photos of the tool MB uses for that purpose, but I can't make a reliable guess as to the proper length. Many thanks.
If you cut a V in each end it will prevent the brace from slipping off, which can happen if you bump it. Then cover with a rag so you don't mess up the finishes.
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Heatwave (09-12-2016)
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Heatwave, I used a paint stick that the paint stores hand out with the 5 gallon buckets. It is 21" long.
kbob, I removed the 5 screws and the headliner was high and dry. Looked in the trunk and there was fluid this time. Took out the right side trunk liner and the locking cylinder is leaking. It doesn't pool as quickly and it did when the left locking cylinder was leaking.
Tim
kbob, I removed the 5 screws and the headliner was high and dry. Looked in the trunk and there was fluid this time. Took out the right side trunk liner and the locking cylinder is leaking. It doesn't pool as quickly and it did when the left locking cylinder was leaking.
Tim
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Heatwave (09-12-2016)