SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: hose replacement

Old 09-22-2016, 05:33 PM
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2003 sl 500
hose replacement

I need to replace the hi pressure inlet hose going to my pulsation dampener assembly. It has the large banjo fitting holding it to the assembly valve. I've not disconnected such a fitting before. Is reconnecting such a fitting any big problem, --leaks after replacement? I'm unsure what the inside of this connection looks like when disassembled and do not need any surprises on reinstalling/reconnecting to the valve body.

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Old 09-22-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by moretech
I need to replace the hi pressure inlet hose going to my pulsation dampener assembly. It has the large banjo fitting holding it to the assembly valve. I've not disconnected such a fitting before. Is reconnecting such a fitting any big problem, --leaks after replacement? I'm unsure what the inside of this connection looks like when disassembled and do not need any surprises on reinstalling/reconnecting to the valve body.

moretech
I would replace the Banjo Sealing Washers without fail....
Old 09-23-2016, 07:29 AM
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Banjo fitting removal is just a bolt, drilled to allow fluid through it. As stated, there are sealing rings each side of the banjo and considering the pressure they see, should be replaced.
Just make sure you have a grip on the valve housing when you break loose the banjo. You can't rely on the hoses or rubber mounts to hold it.
Old 09-23-2016, 05:37 PM
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that hose is a PITA to get out. I couldn't figure out a way to get it out without either removing the AC compressor or cutting the rubber part of the hose. This hose is actually 2 hoses that have a flare fitting connection right by the wheel well. In this connection the larger fitting actually screws into the smaller one, which I found out the hard way when trying to break the connection loose.

Since I didn't want to remove the AC I cut the hose and am having mine rebuilt at a local hose shop with removable fittings on each end. This will make it so I don't have to take the entire hose out when the rubber portion goes bad the next time and was way cheaper than buying the hose new. The big part of the 2 hoses is close to $500 and the small hose is close to $100. The only downside to doing this is that it seemed there was some sort of flow restrictor or dampener in the first rubber part. I'm hoping this won't affect anything, but won't know until I have the whole thing back together.
Old 09-23-2016, 06:33 PM
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My problem is with the shorter piece going from below the wheel well to the pulsation dampener assembly. Is that the $100 hose section? Where does the other piece end up attached? At the valve body? pump? thanks a bunch
moretech

Last edited by moretech; 09-23-2016 at 06:44 PM.
Old 09-23-2016, 09:48 PM
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2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
the other section makes a U shape around the engine and goes from hard line to flex line several times. I would check that hose carefully for leaks as every single flex line on mine was leaking underneath the heat wrap that is around it. That hose eventually goes to another banjo bolt that connects into the back of the pump.

The 2 hoses that go to the front two struts underneath the radiator were also leaking on mine.

The hose you need is $95.20 from mbdirectparts (a dealer in Nebraska) http://www.mbdirectparts.com/oe-merc...enz/2303208153

Instead of fixing this hose I just bought a new one since the ends of the hose are very close to the connectors and because the hose is already very easy to access for removal. The new hose should come with new o rings already on it.
Old 09-23-2016, 10:24 PM
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thanks very very much!!!

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Old 09-30-2019, 08:19 PM
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I may have missed it, but did you post a route diagram?
Old 09-30-2019, 09:15 PM
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I’ve posted it other places. There are 3 different diagrams

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