sound 8

I am worried regarding my suspension after a warning from Thericker.
As you seem to know a lot about turbos, suspension, and general things
regarding the SL, I will change to a module.
What Thericker says is exactly right, my car looks good, but the ride is pretty
awful, like a BMW hopping over silly little bumps. The thought of the
suspension ripping itself apart really got to me, I had to take my Teddy to
bed. So Thericker tell me what module to buy, and if it is available in the
UK including fitting. I am afraid you have opened the door, so for advice
Sound 8 might end up back as a pest.

JohnH

Managed to get Renntech V2 installed and supplied by PCS near Portmouth. Cost £890 all in. Think the module cost £750 and fitting £140. V2 has been superceded by V3 which is ccontrolled from smart phone rather than wired controller. Direct from US would be cheaper.

http://loweringmodule.com/index.php/...e-wremote.html

Might be an idea to give him a call as he bought some as a job lot.

http://prestigecarservice.co.uk/

Tankman

What exactly will happen to the suspension apart from the ride quality when using links?

NEMES1S

I guess I'm a bit foggy on this one too. I know the factory suspension bumps it up a bit at speed, but I would think it would still work. I have the lomo m1 on mine

Thericker

You make me sound like MBW Hitman #1 I don't think anyone else took that post like you did was just giving myop on links etc.. Your sl looks infinetly better post lowering. The mechanical links are a cheap bandaid attempt at properly lowering a complex expensive automobile.

ANY proper lowering module will do the job and keep your suspensions mechanical geometry in order, keeping shocks/struts from excessive wear tear etc. Not certain on exact breaking points but I know tricking ride height sensors thru modified links just can't be good for ABC/Airmatic components either.

This is what I and many others have (generic version of Renntechs 1st generation module w/remote cntrl a superior product for 1/3 the $$ @ $599 )
http://www.programainc.com/product_d...sf=LCMR01&cl=1

Tankman

So just your opinion then with no back up evidence?

V12TTenthusiast

I know a E55 and an SL55 both had links on their cars, they said the tires wore out a lot faster in the rear cause you can't adjust the cambers and the inner part of the tires go out faster. Also the from what I'm told is not as comfortable. Finally at a driving at high speed for a constant amount of time will lower the car to the lowest setting from what E55 guys say, IDK if this applies to SL or not.

cnterline

I have used links on 2 different SL s with no problems, of course your tires will wear out faster if you don't adjust for the lowering re: camber setting, and the ride will be worse the lower you go,but it will also do the same thing with the module, just because you put in an expensive module doesn't mean it lowers your car AND adjusts the camber .

Thericker

After a little less than a year after Links installed 1 had to replace rear shocks/struts (my car had 40k mi at that time so I figured it was just time.) The links esp in rear cause the suspension to bottom out on any pothole very hard etc.. Fast fwd to year later ALL 4 struts needed replacing. I only drive the SL 6k miles or less per yr to boot...

Point w/saving suspension further w/module vs links is the links are permanently set (unless you put car on lift to change settings) Module can be set to a much safer higher setting while driving then dump it when parked for gawking.. The links distort proper ride geometry to another level vs modules..

alx

Geometrically and load- wise speaking there is zero difference between lowering with module and links.

The only difference is that at speed the stock abc lowers the car twice so if you have links and went greedy (too low) you might end up too low at high speeds. The module takes care of that one way or another.

Tankman

Ok alx, so say I set my suspension on the middle setting ie with one light illuminated on a fast motorway run I should be ok as the system will only lower to its own setting?does that make sense? Yes with my links fitted on the lowest ride is a little compromised,if I encounter rough roads I just hit the button.atb col

alx

correct. what most people do is set the links so the "lowest" setting still doesnt rub and still allows some suspension travel as this is more or less the ride height the car will end up when in the "middle" setting and going at high speed.

however, nothing beats trial and error as every car setup is unique: if in the "middle" setting when going fast the steering gets twitchy and too light (more toe out as negative camber increases) - you have lowered too much or you need to drive it in the "top" setting with your current setup.

never drive lowered with links car on the "lowest" setting at high speed. when setting up the lowest setting keep in mind that at speed if in the "middle setting" you will end up at or close to "lowest" setting and depending on how low you are that might be too low and plain dangerous at high speeds. obviously if you drive in "lowest" setting at high speeds you will end up even lower and throw errors / compromise handling / kill yourself

sound 8

Well guys sorry that I seem to have stirred up a hornets nest, and sorry
to Thericker I just wanted to attract your attention.
So, if I fit a module will I have to put back the original links, that's if I can
find them. Will having the 4 wheel alignment done cure the problems with
links, and does it need doing if you have a module. I am quite worried
because at speed the ride feels like you are not in contact the road, does
fitting a module have the same affect. Lastly if I press the button so 1 light
comes on be safer at speed. It's a shame to get these problems especially
when the car looks so good.
Thanks for all your input, I might go for the Rentech John T has.

alx

i dont believe you are stirring up anything...

lowered car is lowered car regardless of how you lower it- links or module. what you experience is too much toe out which is a result of too much negative camber which is a result of too much lowering. an alignment at the lowered stance will help. but then when raised the car will have heavy on-center steering feel and will wear out outer edges of tires (too much toe in).... pick your poison

ideally what you want is properly aligned car at the "middle" ride position and use the "lowest" for static posing and "highest" for bumps, around town, etc. once you have that links or module - doesnt matter. a module will allow you to drive fast in the "lowest" position but if lower than stock there will be a handling penalty - the stock ride height was picked up very carefully by folks that know more than all of us together about those cars

Tankman

So this makes great sense to me and sound8 will save 800 quid.result all round.

SteveO_TT

For 300$ more than links, getting the ProgRama lowering module is a no brainer. You are never going to have to fiddle with the suspension again. Just drop it with the remote control to your desired height, and adjust the 2 different speed at which it will go up half-drop and stock height. Mine is set at 50 and 80 km/h so that it won't affect the drop that originally happens at higher speed. Also no need for alignment since you will be at stock height most of the time. You can also get that slammed 2" drop look for when you want to show off Took me about 2 hours to install, take your time and double check everything.

sound 8

Thanks guys for all your info, I think I will go for the Rentech like John H
has, his was fitted in the UK. It's a well known name and just under a grand
fitted. But DO I have to put the old links back. THANKS