SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Remote display for Valentine 1 and laser interceptor integration (into SL55 gauge clu
10-03-2014, 07:51 PM
#1
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Remote display for Valentine 1 and laser interceptor integration (into SL55 gauge clu
I just finished adding a modified Valentine 1 "remote display" to the gauge cluster of my 2003 SL55 (along with some integration of Laser Interceptor on/off and activity indicator functions and Valentine 1 mute switch), so I thought I'd post a couple of pics.
While it is unlikely that many will want (any or all of) these functions in their own cars, I thought I'd post it as the small display cover I came up with (nestled in the cluster between the gauges) was relatively easy to make and may be useful for some other cluster add-on someone else may have in mind. Worth mentioning, it does not require any holes drilled so it's completely reversible (wires pass though Bezel, next to trip ODO reset knob using same hole).
(Step numbers correspond to picture numbers below)
01.jpg
1) dis-assemble Valentine 1 "remote display"
02.jpg03.jpg
2 & 3)
a) Cut down printed circuit board (adding external traces and relocating several components as necessary in order to achieve desired PCB size reduction).
b) Swap in alternate color LEDs (3 green, 4 amber, and 1 blue) in place of SOME of the factory installed red LEDs (in order to make display more interpretable/self explanatory).
c) isolate one LED (amber LED in vertical column) from on board driver so that it can be driven externally (This LED becomes the power/activity indicator for the Laser Interceptor).
04.jpg05.jpg
4 & 5)
a) Cut down and flatten V1 remote display faceplate.
b) Epoxy pieces together.
c) Trim and apply window tint as required to both mute LEDs and black-out extraneous details in new display.
06.jpg
6) Plug in and test (with temporary acrylic overlay , light brown tint)
While it is unlikely that many will want (any or all of) these functions in their own cars, I thought I'd post it as the small display cover I came up with (nestled in the cluster between the gauges) was relatively easy to make and may be useful for some other cluster add-on someone else may have in mind. Worth mentioning, it does not require any holes drilled so it's completely reversible (wires pass though Bezel, next to trip ODO reset knob using same hole).
(Step numbers correspond to picture numbers below)
01.jpg
1) dis-assemble Valentine 1 "remote display"
02.jpg03.jpg
2 & 3)
a) Cut down printed circuit board (adding external traces and relocating several components as necessary in order to achieve desired PCB size reduction).
b) Swap in alternate color LEDs (3 green, 4 amber, and 1 blue) in place of SOME of the factory installed red LEDs (in order to make display more interpretable/self explanatory).
c) isolate one LED (amber LED in vertical column) from on board driver so that it can be driven externally (This LED becomes the power/activity indicator for the Laser Interceptor).
04.jpg05.jpg
4 & 5)
a) Cut down and flatten V1 remote display faceplate.
b) Epoxy pieces together.
c) Trim and apply window tint as required to both mute LEDs and black-out extraneous details in new display.
06.jpg
6) Plug in and test (with temporary acrylic overlay , light brown tint)
10-03-2014, 07:57 PM
#2
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07.jpg08.jpg09.jpg10.jpg
7, 8, 9 & 10)
a) Make final acrylic overlay (cast acrylic, aka plexiglas .125 thick) and attach surround trim (kydex) using generous amount of crazy glue.
b) Sand face (front) smooth with 320 grit to remove residual glue and surround trim overlap, finish with fine scotch-brite. The finished part has a low-gloss, matte finish (reducing tendency to reflect).
c) Scuff inside of overlay thoroughly and evenly (to curtail LED reflection inside of enclosure).
d) Fine-tune fit of kydex surround trim (to match contour of gauge surround). Ideally, kydex should look like an extension of gauge surround. Use heat gun cautiously to adjust contour of kydex (use no heat near gauge surround).
11.jpg12.jpg
11 & 12) Final fit of display (shots taken prior to final internal-tint selection)
7, 8, 9 & 10)
a) Make final acrylic overlay (cast acrylic, aka plexiglas .125 thick) and attach surround trim (kydex) using generous amount of crazy glue.
b) Sand face (front) smooth with 320 grit to remove residual glue and surround trim overlap, finish with fine scotch-brite. The finished part has a low-gloss, matte finish (reducing tendency to reflect).
c) Scuff inside of overlay thoroughly and evenly (to curtail LED reflection inside of enclosure).
d) Fine-tune fit of kydex surround trim (to match contour of gauge surround). Ideally, kydex should look like an extension of gauge surround. Use heat gun cautiously to adjust contour of kydex (use no heat near gauge surround).
11.jpg12.jpg
11 & 12) Final fit of display (shots taken prior to final internal-tint selection)
10-03-2014, 08:00 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
13.jpg14.jpg15.jpg
13,14 & 15) A few shots of the Laser Interceptor AND Valentine 1 Interface I made to:
a) Provide convenient/fuse-protected power to Laser Interceptor, Valentine 1, and remote display
b) Process inputs from re-tasked center console switches (see pic 16). One switch input going to the Valentine 1 (mute) and the other converting a Momentary switch input into a toggle on/off (Laser Interceptor power switching)
c) Connect Valentine 1 to the remote display (and sending the power/activity signal from the Laser Interceptor up to the remote display as well)
16.jpg
16) These 2 buttons (upper right and upper left) were made functional using scavenged parts from a second set of R230 center console switches. Previously unused, they now control indicated functions.
Cheers,
Chris
13,14 & 15) A few shots of the Laser Interceptor AND Valentine 1 Interface I made to:
a) Provide convenient/fuse-protected power to Laser Interceptor, Valentine 1, and remote display
b) Process inputs from re-tasked center console switches (see pic 16). One switch input going to the Valentine 1 (mute) and the other converting a Momentary switch input into a toggle on/off (Laser Interceptor power switching)
c) Connect Valentine 1 to the remote display (and sending the power/activity signal from the Laser Interceptor up to the remote display as well)
16.jpg
16) These 2 buttons (upper right and upper left) were made functional using scavenged parts from a second set of R230 center console switches. Previously unused, they now control indicated functions.
Cheers,
Chris
05-07-2015, 03:34 PM
#5
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05-12-2015, 12:14 PM
#7
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That's a fair question.
As you can see in the pictures below, both in my SLK32s and in my SL55, the V1s are mounted in the passenger visor area. This gives the V1 ample front and rear view with little obstruction.
Now I could mount the V1 in the the driver visor area, on the SL, but this makes the visor less usable (the SLK32 has a Dashdaq mounted on drivers side making that impossible). So, passengers in the SL55 either squint, or I fold the visor down and drive slowly. In the case of both of my SLK32s, I actually shortened the passenger visor so that the visor remains fully functional and the V1 remains properly oriented and unobstructed. I did NOT feel like cutting up an Alcantara visor (SL55) so it remains attached to the visor in the conventional way (with visor clip).
So, why do I have a remote display if the V1 is visible from the drivers seat? Well, while I do check my rearview constantly as I drive, the V1 is still a bit out of my my field of vision ... AND, since I almost always have the top down this then requires that the V1's volume be very high in order to get my attention (so that I look "over there") .... and of course, listening to music is right out. Additionally, while V1 makes a great product, they have all of the LEDs the same color which is simple to change on the remote display (the LED colors can be changed on the standard V1, but the remote displays are a little easier to work with). So, having the display directly in front of me makes me notice it every time there is activity. Another benefit of using the remote display is that plugging it in makes your main unit (mounted for all to see) go "dark" (only has display during power-up and then goes blank).
Finally, the Laser Interceptor has a "power on/activity light" that works out well in a re-tasked LED on the remote display ("X" and "K" are useless in California and therefore deactivated in all of my cars).
Worth mentioning, I use ceramic tint or none at all (no metallic tints). I know from past experience that the metallic tints interfere with my radio reception and I have been lead to believe that the metallic tints also interfere with the V1.
Bottom line ... is a remote display required? For most folks ... probably not, but for me, definitely.
Cheers,
Chris
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05-12-2015, 02:36 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
That's a fair question.
As you can see in the pictures below, both in my SLK32s and in my SL55, the V1s are mounted in the passenger visor area. This gives the V1 ample front and rear view with little obstruction.
Now I could mount the V1 in the the driver visor area, on the SL, but this makes the visor less usable (the SLK32 has a Dashdaq mounted on drivers side making that impossible). So, passengers in the SL55 either squint, or I fold the visor down and drive slowly. In the case of both of my SLK32s, I actually shortened the passenger visor so that the visor remains fully functional and the V1 remains properly oriented and unobstructed. I did NOT feel like cutting up an Alcantara visor (SL55) so it remains attached to the visor in the conventional way (with visor clip).
So, why do I have a remote display if the V1 is visible from the drivers seat? Well, while I do check my rearview constantly as I drive, the V1 is still a bit out of my my field of vision ... AND, since I almost always have the top down this then requires that the V1's volume be very high in order to get my attention (so that I look "over there") .... and of course, listening to music is right out. Additionally, while V1 makes a great product, they have all of the LEDs the same color which is simple to change on the remote display (the LED colors can be changed on the standard V1, but the remote displays are a little easier to work with). So, having the display directly in front of me makes me notice it every time there is activity. Another benefit of using the remote display is that plugging it in makes your main unit (mounted for all to see) go "dark" (only has display during power-up and then goes blank).
Finally, the Laser Interceptor has a "power on/activity light" that works out well in a re-tasked LED on the remote display ("X" and "K" are useless in California and therefore deactivated in all of my cars).
Worth mentioning, I use ceramic tint or none at all (no metallic tints). I know from past experience that the metallic tints interfere with my radio reception and I have been lead to believe that the metallic tints also interfere with the V1.
Bottom line ... is a remote display required? For most folks ... probably not, but for me, definitely.
Cheers,
Chris
As you can see in the pictures below, both in my SLK32s and in my SL55, the V1s are mounted in the passenger visor area. This gives the V1 ample front and rear view with little obstruction.
Now I could mount the V1 in the the driver visor area, on the SL, but this makes the visor less usable (the SLK32 has a Dashdaq mounted on drivers side making that impossible). So, passengers in the SL55 either squint, or I fold the visor down and drive slowly. In the case of both of my SLK32s, I actually shortened the passenger visor so that the visor remains fully functional and the V1 remains properly oriented and unobstructed. I did NOT feel like cutting up an Alcantara visor (SL55) so it remains attached to the visor in the conventional way (with visor clip).
So, why do I have a remote display if the V1 is visible from the drivers seat? Well, while I do check my rearview constantly as I drive, the V1 is still a bit out of my my field of vision ... AND, since I almost always have the top down this then requires that the V1's volume be very high in order to get my attention (so that I look "over there") .... and of course, listening to music is right out. Additionally, while V1 makes a great product, they have all of the LEDs the same color which is simple to change on the remote display (the LED colors can be changed on the standard V1, but the remote displays are a little easier to work with). So, having the display directly in front of me makes me notice it every time there is activity. Another benefit of using the remote display is that plugging it in makes your main unit (mounted for all to see) go "dark" (only has display during power-up and then goes blank).
Finally, the Laser Interceptor has a "power on/activity light" that works out well in a re-tasked LED on the remote display ("X" and "K" are useless in California and therefore deactivated in all of my cars).
Worth mentioning, I use ceramic tint or none at all (no metallic tints). I know from past experience that the metallic tints interfere with my radio reception and I have been lead to believe that the metallic tints also interfere with the V1.
Bottom line ... is a remote display required? For most folks ... probably not, but for me, definitely.
Cheers,
Chris
Valentine needs a front mounted product. They haven't released any new product in years. Visors mounts are 80s tech.
05-12-2015, 03:04 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Since the V1's major attribute is 360° coverage (true front and rear coverage and directional indication), front mount might be a challenge. But it would make for a more stealthy install : )
