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First I was told get rid of the spacers their dangerous , so I look for some
20 inch rims that will fit without spacers. Then I learn you need 18 inch
wheels because 20's will loose power .
So what would you have,,,, 20 inch rims with a lets say 20-40 bhp loss
or 18 inch wheels with no power loss.
I am sticking with 20's cos they look great, and that's the most important
to me . If you can't fight wear a big hat.
S8.
SL 55 and a GT 3000 vr4 Here's my car: http://home.online.no/~ludvs/index.cfm
I would also keep the 20", but that's because of the look, I may change my mind if I get them bent.....
As long as I have it raised (one red button), it works quite well.
Have a nice weekend everyone!
Heh nice colour, is that a designue colour ?
I took your advice and have been driving with one red light on.
But I found the car was too low so I raised it with the module and now it
doesn't need the red button in, however it looks higher at standstill. S8
I like my 20/21 set up on my SL65, and applying RENNtech upgrades, would be plenty fast for me. On my SL600 it has RENNtech upgrades and 20" rims, and that is scary quick enough for me. I was going 70 the other day and punched it to get over safely to my exit, and the rear end fished a good deal even with traction control. Not sure why anyone would want more power than that. Plus women seem to be really attracted to the larger look, probably due to bigger is better philosophy.
I like my 20/21 set up on my SL65, and applying RENNtech upgrades, would be plenty fast for me. On my SL600 it has RENNtech upgrades and 20" rims, and that is scary quick enough for me. I was going 70 the other day and punched it to get over safely to my exit, and the rear end fished a good deal even with traction control. Not sure why anyone would want more power than that. Plus women seem to be really attracted to the larger look, probably due to bigger is better philosophy.
Very true, I had the new SL63 bi-turbo, and it was fast, and then I had it
re mapped and it was frightening. The electric steering couldn't keep up
with the performance, it made the engine noise higher and the exhaust
sound worse, it stopped being fun and was costing a grand a month, so
I went back to a SL65, believe me the new 63 would eat it, but the 65 was
lovely to drive.
S8
Yes, it has the 032 designo mystic blue varicolor.
What if you drive with 2 red buttons, maybe it would be enough?
And then lower it when you're standing still of course.
S8 has an ELM2 which would allow him to use the speed settings so he could slam the car when stopped or going slow and then have the car automatically go back to normal ride height at whatever speed he chooses. I just cannot convince him of this.
As long as you keep the same wheel/tyre circumference, being 18" or 20" etc. it will not influence on the power or odomometer/speedometer. Going to wider wheels and lower profiler tires will drastically improve handling on the car but also give a more harsh drive. I'm installed 20" Carlsson UL 1/16 with 255 and 305 wide tires on my SL65
I am going from my SL55 stock wheels and tires of 255/40/18 and 285/35-18 in back to 19 inch wheels with tire size of 255/35-19 and 285/30-19
My math might be all screwed up, but if I did it right, the over all difference in diameter from the old tires to the new will be about 1/2 inch. I could certainly see how this could impact both gearing and speedo accuracy, but will it be negligible or noticeable?
You can go to larger diameter wheel and with the correct tire the speedo will be accurate; however, when you go to a larger diameter wheel you usually cost yourself some horses in the process. It's just physics. When you move the weight further out from the center it takes more power to turn the wheel.
We have already argued about this subject, and it seems smaller diameter
wheels will give more power, however a 19 inch wheel with 30 profile tyre will have the same diameter as a 20 inch wheel with a 25 profile tyre.
So the distance from the centre of the hub to the outer edge should be the
same on both, that's how I see it, but I guess I am stupid
S8
Mercedes SL63 AMG; Mercedes E63 AMG S 4matic; Mercedes C43 AMG; Mercedes S Class, Mercedes GLK
BlownV8 described it perfectly
Originally Posted by BlownV8
You can go to larger diameter wheel and with the correct tire the speedo will be accurate; however, when you go to a larger diameter wheel you usually cost yourself some horses in the process. It's just physics. When you move the weight further out from the center it takes more power to turn the wheel.
The larger diameter pushes the rim further out from the center of the wheel, requiring more force to move it.
Think about it like a seesaw. The further you sit to the edge of a seesaw, the more weight you are distributing further from the center, the more leverage you have. The length of the seesaw doesn't change but your weight distribution does. Same principle applies. There is also a centripetal force calculation that explains it, you can do a search for it.
It's where the weight is located that is causing the loss.of power. When you are going to a larger wheel and lower profile tire, the weight is all bunched up to the outside of the wheel/tire assembly. A smaller wheel with a larger profile tire distributes that weight closer to the center of the wheel as compared to a low profile tire on a large wheel. Get it?
Now you are bringing weight into it. What if a 25 profile tyre weighs less
than a 30 profile tyre. I don't understand how most of the weight is in the middle affects it.. Surely max weight it is taken from the furthest point on a circle.
S8
Omg, you really don't get it. Do an Internet search. You will find all the formulas you need.
I don't see many members chiming in, because they don't get it either.
Look if you take wheel/tyre as a whole, then the heavier one is going to
be the hardest to turn, so a wheel and a tyre become one when joined.
If the wheel is light, the tyre could be heavier, plus the outer edge of the
tyre/wheel is the tyre. If the wheel was solid what would be the outcome.
S8
OK, imagine having a string attached with 10 pounds in the center and a 1 oz weight at the end of a 1 meter string. Now, spin that string. Take that same 10 lbs and move it out to the end of the string and put the 1 oz weight in the center. Which one will be harder to spin? The overall weight is the same, correct?
When you are talking about a rotating mass. It's where the weight is on that mass that determines the energy it takes to rotate that mass. If you have an 18" wheel, the weight of the wheel, barrel, and spokes will be closer to the center of the wheel vs a 20" wheel with a very low profile tire. A majority of the weight will be at the outer most edge of the wheel with the 20" wheel/tire combo. The heaviest part of the wheel/tire combo is in the tires and barrel.
It depends quite a bit on what specific wheels are in question. Most stock Mercedes wheels are very heavy. When I switched out the stock 18" wheels on my E55 years ago for a set of 20" HRE monobloks, the car lost nearly 80 lbs of rotating mass and felt like it gained 50 Hp.
I would also keep the 20", but that's because of the look, I may change my mind if I get them bent.....
As long as I have it raised (one red button), it works quite well.
Have a nice weekend everyone!
06-18-2015, 02:43 PM
If you can't fight wear a big hat.
S8
