RaceHorse

I would keep the tire around 35-40lbs if driving on them and lower them at the track. Figure out how to put the car in dyno mode otherwise you will have a very tough time trying to do a burnout. From there the V12TTs can be put in M1 after the burnout and it will shift on its own. Your best results launching will be from bringing the rpms up over 2k while holding the brakes at the tree. Good luck, have fun.

boostd

Run 1: Burnout, launch in M. Result- limp mode.

Run 2: Burnout, launch in S. 12.1 @112. Something is not right with the car. Boost leak maybe?

m-svt-amg

Hmm did you get limp mode as soon as you went full throttle? I had an issue with my accelerator pedal that triggered limp mode when it registered full throttle from less than 1/4 throttle in less than a second. Replacing the pedal fixed it.

Do you have a scantool? Check out torque app and scantool.net

ItalianJoe1

intercooler pump out? the time seems good but the trap is way low.

RaceHorse

Did you put the car in dyno mode? If not trying to do a burnout can put you into limp mode, causing the tranny to start off in second or feeling like its in neutral. If that occurs cycle the key on and off. It's much easier on the car to do your burnout in dyno mode with less issues. I had less issues and more cooperation from the tranny in manual mode, but that is also in dyno mode, if that makes any difference. If the car is stock the ET is not too bad, but as mentioned the MPH is way off (should be high teens, low 120s. Check your pump, as mentioned. Did you open your hood between passes and make any attempt to ice down intercoolers? Even a little bit of light driving before parking can take some of the heat out of the engine and out of the I/C system. What were the outside temps? Several factors come into play, I would start by looking at the little things involving cooling that make a big difference before thinking beyond that.

boostd

The car was in dyno mode the whole time. In run 1, after the burnout, I launched in Manual. When the car hit recline, it didn't shift as I was expecting. Instead, it went limp.

The car sat for a good 90 minutes between runs. I didn't open the hood, but the car was off. On that run, I launched in Sport mode after the Burnout. The car finished the fun, but was slow. I'll check the cooling first as recommended. The car is supposed to have the upgraded RENNtech pump. What's the best way to check the pump? Also, is there a common boost leak area on these cars?

My car has the RENNtech tune, pump and LSD.

RaceHorse

Not sure why your car didn't shift, only difference I can think of is that I have a TCU. Like I said before, I had a few issues not in manual, but in drive sport instead.

Sitting for 90 minutes is good, but all that heat has no place to go with the hood down. The intercooler lines pass over the engine(specifically the heads) near the coils. Any heat that was taken out of the I/C system still warms from the engine after shutting it off with hood insulation right above to hold it all in. Opening the hood and placing ice up top is a big help.

Post a time slip, it would be interesting to see if it drops off or if it consistently down on power. Were you able to launch well? Use a scan tool if you can and monitor your IATs. That will help determine if its cooling. You may have other codes that will show if you are having issues else where.

boostd

P20E1- Charge air coolant circuit: Charge air temperature is too high.

Does that mean there was too much heat?

ItalianJoe1

Yes, it means the air temps post intercooler was high. That explains your lack of power. Odds are your pump is dead, I got that code when mine was out and the car was noticeably down on power after a long pull or back to back races.

boostd

Thanks. My car has the RENNtech pump setup, but I'll check it. What's the recommended pump for this car? One of the Pierburg models? Or just a CM30?

m-svt-amg

Pierburg for sure

Renntech is a peirburg cwa100 i believe. Maybe the fluid is cavitating?

FxFormat

Digging this thread back up, i've got me a tuned 2009 SL600 and would like to be able to put power to the ground. Keep hearing everyone rave about R888R so that's what i'd like to try, i would have to run 18x10 in the rear et +32

These are the wheels



My question is, will running 25" diameter tires work? I'd like to run 295/30/18 and that equals to a rolling diameter of 25", i know stock's rolling diameter is 26", is that 1" difference crucial for sensors and gearing and such?

Another option would be to run 275/35/18 and that's a 25.6" rolling diameter, would like to run 295 if that would work, currently running 305s Toyo T1S and does not have traction until highway speed