m-svt-amg

For your purposes, install the cwa 50 and wire it so its running when the key is on. Then while staging, leave the key on engine off to cool it. Might be a good idea to coast at moderate speed and low throttle a bit before staging.

Some of the lightning guys i know actually sit a bag of ice on their supercharger while staging lol

Josh154

Haha I am all about performance with my truck. I had my duramax out there and was running 13.0s. She needs more fuel now and with my turbo setup I can run high 11s on stock motor for a little while till she blows lol.

I think he wouldn't mind doing pulleys and tune later on but want to run the 12.5s most of them do first. He has pretty decent tires on it to so if we can get it out of the hole he should be low 12s I would assume.

m-svt-amg

In my opinion, the stock cooling management is not adequate for stock pulleys. The pump shuts off under certain conditions and when you press the gas, it has turn on the pump, circulate fluid, then measure inlet temps to evaluate whether or not it is safe to engage the supercharger, then it engages it when it decides so.

I feel this creating a huge lag when i shift from 3rd to 1st in a passing situation. Or after sitting in stop and go traffic on a 90+ temp day.

I suspect cooling in staging will make a huge difference in your holeshot.

Ingenere

I've probably had my SL55 longer than anyone on here and I own a tuning company.

I've found the later Bosche pump is more than up to the task. We do crank pulleys in combination with ECU tuning.

vrmmm

Great thread! Thanks to m-svt-amg for all the great info!

After 12 LONG years I FINALLY got my hands on the 2004 Designo Graphite SL55 that I specked out new for my father-in-law back in 2004. He let me do a Renntech tune and crank pulley (168mm?), Renntech intercooler upgrade kit (pump & IC) and a Kleeman LSD back in 2006. The car has been great ever since, with only 53k miles on it now that it is finally mine (I found him a low mileage 2013 SL63 for less than half of sticker price and I did the Renntech tune on it for him).

I am selling my 2004 Designo Mocha CL600 Sport that has the Renntech tune (625hp/734tq) but otherwise bone stock. I know the SL55 will never come close to the torque of the V12TT, but as long as I can get the HP close to 600, the cool sounds and sporty handling should keep me entertained for a while. This is why I'd like to step it up a little bit, but without getting into changing injectors, throttle body and trunk tank.

I removed the resonators for some more sound and I honestly cannot even tell the difference, so I found a set of new in box Renntech "shorty" headers crazy cheap off ebay and plan to have a performance exhaust shop with a mandrel build me a custom center section because nobody seems to offer one. I got a low mileage 84mm clutched supercharger pulley from a fellow mbworld member to run with the existing Renntech pulley.

Does anyone have an idea what the boost will be with the Renntech (168mm?) crank pulley and a 83.7mm clutched pulley? I understand that both of these pulleys are extremely conservative by themselves, so together they should be just about right. I am hoping this combo will put me close to 15psi but not much more. I may also do the basic split cooling kit but not interested in a trunk tank.

I know that I will have to find someone to retune it as soon as soon as I install the new exhaust and SC pulley, but other than that I think I'll just let it be and enjoy.

Any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated!

latemodel21

Welcome!
here is a useful pulley matrix. keep in mind that which supercharger you have (#280 vs #080/580) will also help to determine your SC speed (and boost). Also, headers and other less restrictive exhausts will make your boost appear lower (while actually helping to increase the amount of air ingested : )

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...st-matrix.html

Cheers,
Chris

GOT PADDLES?

m-svt-amg

Hey no problem! Just passing along some of the info i picked up from latemodel21 and cnterline reading these boards. Its only fair to pay it forward!

Josh154

Ok so I got the plug pins and grommets from bmw. I am going to be installing the pump tomorrow, how do I wire the pump to run as soon as the key is on?

m-svt-amg

Hardwire it to something else that is always on, or jumper the relay.

latemodel21

if you can find an unused fuse location that is on "circuit 15" on the Rear Sam (that is where your IC pump is controlled from), you can move the pump drive to that fuse and you should be good to go. Other-wise you will have to splice into a "circuit 15" wire and run your pump off of that.

Having said that however, on my 2003 SL55 I was curious when the pump was and wasn't active, so I datalogged it briefly and found that it is on nearly all the time the engine is running (essentially, except when the engine is first started or when you slow to a stop and the IAT is below 80° F or so), so I left mine in the factory configuration. 2005 may be different however.


Cheers,
Chris

Josh154

Hmm maybe I will just run it off the factory location. Is the resistor needed or can I just wire it up? Also is there a diagram somewhere showing which color goes where?

latemodel21

Pump Connector Pinout:
Pin 1 is Common or Ground
Pin 2 is LIN-Bus
Pin 3 is PWM input signal
Pin 4 is + 12 to 16v

connect pin 1 to the brown wire in your harness
connect pins 3 and 4 to the other wire

pin 3 should, ideally, be connected thru a resistor (1000 ohms is good), but some have hooked it up directly and I've yet to hear of anyone having a failure because of this.

pin 2 can be left empty

hope that helps
Chris

Josh154

Awesome so pin 1 will just be a black wire, pin 2 empty, pin 3 can be wired directly to what color? And pin 4 will be red? The factory pump connector will get cut off and have 3 wires that I can just attach to the pins and plug into the new pump?

latemodel21

you can use ANY wire color that pleases you ...


THESE are the car side wire colors

" connect pin 1 to the brown wire in your harness
connect pins 3 and 4 to the other wire "

the "other wire" is probably Blue with a Black stripe (red/yellow up through 05/2005)


EDIT .... I had my CWA 50 out this weekend (upgraded my 2003 SL55 to a CWA 100) and made some observations that I should include here.

To Begin ... the CWA 50 and CWA 100 have the same pin-out on their respective 4 pin connectors (the only difference is the current requirement. The CWA 50 never needs more than 5 amps and the CWA 100 humps along at about 7.35 amps after an 8.2 am start-up).

Pump Connector Pinout:
Pin 1 is Common or Ground
Pin 2 is LIN-Bus
Pin 3 is PWM input signal
Pin 4 is + 12 to 16v

The CWA 100 having the higher current requirement needs to have larger gauge wires (1.5 mm or 14 AWG preferred) and should be fused at no less than 10amps (2014 SL65 uses a 15 amp fuse), but this thread has been about the CWA 50 so I'll try and stick to that ...

for wiring in a CWA 50, you can wire directly from the 2 wire harness (that plugged into the old pump) to the new connector

Connect Pin 1 to the brown wire in your harness
leave pin 2 UNconnected
Connect Pins 3 and 4 to the "other" wire

the "other wire" is shown in the documentation as being Red/Yellow (red with yellow stripe) up through 05/2005 and Blue/Black after ... HOWEVER, in my 2003 it was RED with a WHITE stripe.

NOW, I have always suggested that pin 3 should, ideally, be connected to pin 4 thru a resistor (1000 ohms is good) ...
BUT, as I discovered this weekend (looking at Mercedes documentation for a 2014 SL65 which comes with the CWA 100 as standard equipment) Mercedes just ties pins 3 and 4 together with NO resister. SO, it's not a problem to wire it with the resistor (protects pump electronics from over-current) and according to MBZ its not a problem to wire it without the resistor. (I now have one of my cars with and one without the resistor).

hope that clears it up a little.

Chris

m-svt-amg

I need to log mine.. im convinced mine hesitates on throttle kickdowns due to ic flow... but i need to confirm.

cal1

Do you notice this at gear shifts under WOT? I could be way off, but I know the SC belt will slip momentarily under those conditions. I was trying to find a vid that shows it happening, but could not find it. I think Shardul may have recorded it. Anyway, if that is the issue, the answer is the belt wrap kit.