DUDMD

I'm in Auburn, WA
You can PM me for details.

sgaar

I see what you are doing, but I don't recognize the part you are pressure testing. At first glance it looks like an intercooler, but it isn't....at least not like the ones I have in my 65.

DUDMD

That was just a video of how to build on and use it.
On the v12 tt engine, you're going to remove the intake boxes.
You will need to create 2 caps, but only one will need the nipple to pressurize the system.
The caps will be attached directly to the inlets of the turbo, where the airbox attaches to the turbo. This method will pressurize your entire intake system, from turbos all the way to the intake manifold and any hoses that attach to the intake manifold.

euphoriaDSM

It's best to have a gauge while you do this to not over pressurize the system. You don't want to pump 100psi in for example.

sgaar

Yeah, that 's what I figured. Happy to know that I am not loosing it....at least not yet.

DUDMD

Finished installing the Eboost2 boost controller/gauge.
I didn't want to damage the a-pillar or the dash to attach a gauge pod. Instead I decided to get rid of one vent, this way I can easily replace it later if needed to go back to stock. I made a face-plate from an aluminum sheet i had left over from the intake boxes. It's in there extremely secured, I can press on the gauge pretty hard and it won't budge or fall into the dash a single bit.

Wiring was pretty simple and straight forward, I've tried to get an RPM source from a few spots. Injector pulse wasn't picking up correctly at times, coil pack signal caused a misfire. Camshaft position sensor signal, worked but also caused that engine bank to not fire, the gauge/controller was interfering with the signal. I ended up still using the camshaft position sensor signal from connector 3, pin 25 on the ecu. The trick was to use 2 resistors inline supplied with the boost controller kit, that allowed it to read the rpm correctly and not affect the camshaft signal to the ecu.
Reason why I need the RPM signal for the boost controller, is to be able to compensate the duty cycle of the solenoid at higher RPM when boost starts to drop off. That maybe able to get me a few more pounds of air.
It also allows me to control any auxiliary device that I want from this boost controller, and it's simple. RPM on, RPM off, Boost On, Boost Off. Anything from a simple warning light to meth injection/nitrous/you name it.

Car is ready to go back on the dyno, hoping to get strapped down and do some testing when time permits.

Pictures of the gauge install and RPM pickup working video.



















Video of the start up with the boost controller and RPM tach pick up working. PHr is for Peak Hold Rpm, I don't think it has a live RPM screen. It will just show the max RPM you have achieved during the last pull.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

nice work!

DUDMD

Thanks.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

make sure the air duct is blocked. When the heater is turned on it will eventually melt the circuity in the gauge.

PrecisionEngine

is the throttle plate holding back whatever pressure you're applying?

DUDMD

No, air will get past the throttle body and pressurize all the way into cylinder chambers.

DUDMD

So, finally got on the dyno today to measure the gains if any to be had from tightening up the waste gates.
Max boost I can get was 15.3psi right before redline.
I tried to use the boost controller at a set duty cycle and use a correction feature for higher RPM as boost started to die off. It worked great at lower duty cycle/boost, but once I was shooting for max power, it would boost spike at low rpm past 25psi. I didn't want to push the turbos that hard or make that much torque, so I switched the boost controller to boost by rpm mode. It allows me to set what ever duty cycle i want every 500rpm, so I run lower boost at lower rpm and slowly raise boost every 500rpm, peak at about 4k rpm, and then push the turbos to the max after that. This worked out great to reduce torque at lower rpm. Launching at WOT should be much easier now, and transmission won't be getting as much torque down low, hopefully keep it together longer.
The boost curve looks like almost a larger turbo setup where it needs more rpm to spool up.
Car did the best of 540whp on pump gas, we left the timing map stock to keep it safe and not push the motor. I'm sure I could've got 550-560whp on more timing.

We then drained the tank, and put in 3 gallons of VP MS109 fuel. Boost level stayed the same, fuel map didn't require any changes, and we added a bit of timing.
First pull it put down 580whp.

We added another tiny bit of timing and it put down 599whp. No further changes were made, let it cool for 10 minutes, made 600whp, and then 602whp after 10 more minutes. I ran out of ice, and called it a day. I'm sure there was a little bit more power left there with more timing.

Final numbers were 602WHP/660WTQ (we limited/lowered torque on purpose)
Only mods are speedriven down pipes, custom intakes and ice tank. The rest was just tuning and fuel.

These are dyno dynamics, heartbreaker dyno numbers. A stock 65 amg makes only 450-460whp here, and an E60 M5 only puts down 380whp. Compared to a dynojet, my 602whp would be around 670-675whp, which may be the highest stock turbo/stock intercooler 65 motor.

Here's the dyno graphs from today's tune session:

shardul

iTrader: (1)

good numbers!

RaceHorse

Nice job with the car, and thanks for sharing. It is interesting to see a slightly different approach and/or tweaking of the standard V12TT mods. I'm sure there is alot to carry over from other platforms, but you just don't see much of it.

It makes sense what you are trying to do limiting the power delivery. There's no doubt the extra torque puts a beating on these cars, but at the same time you need it due to the weight. I enjoy guessing how far I can push the car without breaking the tires loose. It seems my self control is better when nobody is around. I wouldn't want to give up or soften the 2-3 shift, it just pulls SO HARD at that point. However, it is pretty rough on the tranny. As far as power I think I am pretty close to you. I dyno'ed 550/684 WHP/WTQ on a mustang dyno. At the time I had just 93 octane and my trunk tank wasn't installed yet. I had catless downpipes, ECU/TCU, supplemental heat exhcange and my cone filter intake. The same setup ran 645 WHP on a dynojet. I think your numbers are accurate comparing dynos. I know the car picks up a ton of power with MS109 and ice in the tank from my experience at events. You have proven my estimates are close. I too run stock turbos and stock intercoolers, but I haven't messed with the wastegates.

Get that thing to the track and lets see what it can trap. Good luck!!

DUDMD

Thanks.
The one awesome feature of this boost controller is boost by RPM. So every 500rpm, I can change the boost levels. I'll try full throttle launches at the track, if I spin I'll lower the boost, if I hook I'll raise it up until it spins. If you're looking into a boost gauge, I'd highly recommend this. You can lower the boost down to the wastegates for just cruising around/etc, and when you're going to get on it, hit one button and you're back to max boost. Up to 6 different preconfigured boost settings, takes less than 1 second to switch between them.

Other than that, it does not need that much torque under 3500rpm, as if you're racing you're always above that.

I think our power is very similar. Dyno Dynamics reads a hair less than the mustang, my best on pump gas (92 fred meyer gas) was 551whp, don't remember torque. I'm always using the weather station, during these days the weather was decent. Dyno correction was at 1.009 for ambient conditions.

There will be 3 test and tunes coming up here in October, our DA is not as favorable as those on the east coast, but there are several records set for other car makes/models at Pacific Raceways track in Washington.

My goal right now is to get into the 10 seconds club, but would be amazing to take the #1 spot for the SL65 AMG.

Turbos are most likely going to get upgraded this winter and maybe a few other custom little mods like wasteagates, maybe even external wastegate for more backpressure reduction at higher RPM. Right now I have rear toe and camber arms on the way from Shardul. Should be going nice and straight down the track, with 0 camber for some extra traction on 285/40/18 Mickeys.

carguyshu

this is making me wish I had spent the extra money and bought an SL65 instead of a SL55

Ed954

Very nice numbers! Good job!

AMG-Driver

Without doubt, this is one of the most interesting builts with stock turbos for a long time here.

It has a different approach with the boost controller. The healthy Peak Boost numbers are relatively the same as I predicted compared with a good tune only, being limited by the size of the turbos and the restriction in the exhaust manifold.

I imagine how it would drive on the German Autobahn and in traffic with full boost coming at 3.750 RPM instead of 3.000 RPM.

I see the point that it maybe a benefit for traction at the track and to save the tranny to a certain point.

But I am not sure if it is benefitial in daily driving because turbo lag should be quite a lot bigger in daily driving and I like very much having full boost 21 PSI at 3.000 RPM. It is very harmonic to drive on the autobahn when you can use the full torque also in the higher gears, especially in manual gear mode.

It will be very interesting, if you would try your approach with bigger turbos and or different manifolds.

According to my tuner I would recommend to strengthen the transmission at this point and one other thing you might have already seen during tuning, don't go over 22PSI because of the MAP-Sensor/ECU.

Good Luck!

DUDMD

Thanks the for compliments.

The lower boost at lower rpm does not hurt spool, I'm doing that on purpose to slowly bring the boost up and reduce large boost spikes. Infact, with this boost controller, the turbos spool up harder/quicker than before. It has an option, which will keep the wastegates from seeing any boost until you tell it to. Let's say I want to run 15psi at 3k rpm. The wastegate will start to crack open at 5-7 psi if gate pressure option is off, due to backpressure and boost applied to the wastegate actuator. With this option on, I can tell the boost controller to keep all the boost away from the actuator until a certain psi, like 13-14psi, which will spool up faster and reduce lag by keeping the wastegate fully shut until it's needed.

If anyone is interested in options this boost controller provides, please read them here:
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-cont....19-MAY-12.pdf

Again, I can turn this boost up/down in a matter of seconds, not something I can change quickly with the stock boost control due to a lot of logging and flashing of the ECU required to hit your exact goals. That was one thing I hated about tuning the stock ecu on the dyno, you'd have to flash the ECU several times to get the boost dialed in. It worked great and I made same power on pump gas with stock and aftermarket boost controllers. I just like having more control over it, whenever I want. Especially while driving on the street.

I drove this around town, it still makes insane torque down low. Much more than my Michelin super sport tires can handle in 2nd gear. There's not really a reason to be at full boost on the hwy at 3k rpm or lower pushing 700+wtq, it's not good for the engine or trans. Best to downshift a gear and haul *** even faster.

We'll see how it hooks up at the track, I will turn the boost up at lower RPM to get a better 60' time on the launch, unless it already makes too much torque and spins.

Can't wait.

I've ran 12.0 at 120mph on a hot day, high elevation track when I just got the car. Bone stock with 465whp and street tires, spun pretty much every launch, best 60' was either 1.9 or 2.0. With a 140whp more, drag radials, and proper alignment, I'm shooting for a 10.99 or faster.

AMG-Driver

One Point I noticed with stock turbos on my car. Sometimes I therefore drive in manual mode because I don't want the downshift.

I don't have taken exact times to compare, but when I rev for example in 3rd to redline the acceleration looses a lot of intensity lets say from 5.000-6000. and then after the shift into 4th the car is really pulling again like a freight train in 4th.

I have the feeling, that in some driving situations with stock turbos and a tune the car is not really faster with the downshift and reving the gear all out. At least in 3rd., 4th and 5th.

Sure with an open intake and downpipes it revs more freely in the higher band.

But ultimate turbo setup for me would be full boost lets say from 3.000-3.500 and then full boost and power to redline. Sure this needs work on the turbos with this big 6.0 Liter Monster.

And this all combined with the 7-Speed tranny in the SL65 R231. This would really hauling ***...

RaceHorse

Your boost control sounds interesting, but I'd have to feel it work to be sold. I would be concerned with how quickly it can modulate the 500 rpm increments. With catless exhaust the car can run through the rpms pretty quickly. I'm guessing close to (20) 500 rpm changes in roughly 7 seconds or the 1/8th mile when considering the gear changes.

It probably could make roll racing a little easier to control since the car tends to spin the tires from a roll sometimes easier than off the line. Sometimes it can be frustrating on the street when you over power the tires, but seat times helps.

For the track, you will not experience much if any wheel spin with the proper prep, sticky tire and tire pressure. Without all three, people think the car is making too much power when there are much more powerful cars than ours launching much harder. Our highway gears are not drag friendly, but with sticky tires you can see 1.5x 60 foot times resulting in sub 3 second 0-60 times. It will be interesting to see what it does.

DUDMD

We'll see how it goes here in 2 weeks at a test and tune.
I've cut low 1.6s on my friends E55 before many times, only a 1.7-1.8 on my s600 with smaller drag radials and open diff.

LSD, less weight and a bigger drag radial on the SL65 should help.

RaceHorse

Hey did you ever get a chance to test your setup at the track?

DUDMD

Wasn't able to. The last couple of local test and tunes at our track here got rained out. Going to have to wait till spring now.
I did run an M6 on the hwy last night though, so the power is there. This was on 92 with no ice, so around 500whp.
While 600WHP is on MS109 and little bit of ice.

euphoriaDSM

The boost controller is a must to unlock some power on these cars or any turbo car. When I first joined I noticed no one was running them and coming from many previous turbo cars I didn't understand why not. So I'm glad to see someone headed the "normal" turbo modding direction.