SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: DUDMD - SL65 AMG V12T - Single Turbo Conversion Build
01-18-2017, 10:50 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
DUDMD - SL65 AMG V12T - Single Turbo Conversion Build
Parts are slowly starting to pile up for this new project.
602whp on a dyno dynamics wasn't enough for me, so instead of doing an impeller upgrade, we are going to do something new. Goal is 700whp on pump 92 octane, and 800whp on ms109.
1. Precision 1200hp billet 7675 T4 .96AR turbo'
2. Turbo blanket
3. At least 100' of DEI exhaust wrap to keep heat in
4. New single and bigger air/water intercooler, haven't picked one yet
5. V12 non turbo headers, modified to v-band flanges. Maybe ceramic coat
6. 2" exhaust piping per bank, join into a single 2.5" pipe at the rear of transmission. All 304ss tig welded
7. 1 of 2" vibrant turboflex pipe, and 2 of 2.5" vibrant turboflex pipe to absorb vibration and prevent cracking
8. 2.5" charge piping from rear to new intercooler
9. Turbowerx scavenge pump and their mount kit
10 .-10an oil return line
11. -4an oil turbo feed line
12. Tial 50mm BOV
13. Tial 44mm MVR wastegate (starting with 10psi wastegate spring for now)
14. PML 722.6 deep transmission pan to add an extra 1.5-2liters and 10-30F drop in temp.
Full ABC delete, convert to V6/V8 power steering pump, and coil overs suspension. Remove all ABC hoses/sensors/valve blocks. Will be all for sale soon, and as well as the Programa V2 lowering module. Want to pull it all off and hopefully weigh it.
A lot of little brackets and raw material is already here. Currently waiting on the turbo to arrive so I can start finding a good location for it. Would love to fit it in the rear muffler/bumper area, but not sure there's enough room.
Took a few pictures of the engine removal and approx room I have to work with to convert to the non-turbo headers.
602whp on a dyno dynamics wasn't enough for me, so instead of doing an impeller upgrade, we are going to do something new. Goal is 700whp on pump 92 octane, and 800whp on ms109.
1. Precision 1200hp billet 7675 T4 .96AR turbo'
2. Turbo blanket
3. At least 100' of DEI exhaust wrap to keep heat in
4. New single and bigger air/water intercooler, haven't picked one yet
5. V12 non turbo headers, modified to v-band flanges. Maybe ceramic coat
6. 2" exhaust piping per bank, join into a single 2.5" pipe at the rear of transmission. All 304ss tig welded
7. 1 of 2" vibrant turboflex pipe, and 2 of 2.5" vibrant turboflex pipe to absorb vibration and prevent cracking
8. 2.5" charge piping from rear to new intercooler
9. Turbowerx scavenge pump and their mount kit
10 .-10an oil return line
11. -4an oil turbo feed line
12. Tial 50mm BOV
13. Tial 44mm MVR wastegate (starting with 10psi wastegate spring for now)
14. PML 722.6 deep transmission pan to add an extra 1.5-2liters and 10-30F drop in temp.
Full ABC delete, convert to V6/V8 power steering pump, and coil overs suspension. Remove all ABC hoses/sensors/valve blocks. Will be all for sale soon, and as well as the Programa V2 lowering module. Want to pull it all off and hopefully weigh it.
A lot of little brackets and raw material is already here. Currently waiting on the turbo to arrive so I can start finding a good location for it. Would love to fit it in the rear muffler/bumper area, but not sure there's enough room.
Took a few pictures of the engine removal and approx room I have to work with to convert to the non-turbo headers.
Last edited by DUDMD; 01-19-2017 at 02:53 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by DUDMD:
01-19-2017, 12:26 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
While it will not directly bolt on, we will have to make an adapter/mount to make it work. The pressure line will need to be moved forward a few inches, and feed hose will be reconfigured a bit as well. But the pump is much smaller than the factory abc pump and it should easily work with an adapter mount. I already tried it on my spare sl600 engine and broken e55 pump. No reason it won't work, especially with the engine out of the car.
I have several buddies that work at machine shops, so maybe I'll even get them to mill me a nice adapter, or I might just make one out of steel.
I have several buddies that work at machine shops, so maybe I'll even get them to mill me a nice adapter, or I might just make one out of steel.
01-19-2017, 02:03 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
01-19-2017, 08:31 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Turbo and a few bits showed up today. Looks like the rear left muffler area is going to be where I'm going to install it. It's going to be very tight, but should just barely fit in there and not have to cut the trunk at all. Just maybe cutoff the muffler hanger part.
Finished removing all of the ABC hoses/parts, every single one except for the module and wiring. I'll remove the module and lowering module later. Had to lower the rear subframe 3-4" to barely get those lines out of there. I just didn't want to leave any behind for weight reason and dripping fluid.
Goal is to have the turbos pulled off the engine/abc pump on Saturday, modify the header to have only 1 2" outlet per bank. Remove unnecessary oil feed/drain/cooling lines, cap them all off except for one oil feed.
Finished removing all of the ABC hoses/parts, every single one except for the module and wiring. I'll remove the module and lowering module later. Had to lower the rear subframe 3-4" to barely get those lines out of there. I just didn't want to leave any behind for weight reason and dripping fluid.
Goal is to have the turbos pulled off the engine/abc pump on Saturday, modify the header to have only 1 2" outlet per bank. Remove unnecessary oil feed/drain/cooling lines, cap them all off except for one oil feed.
Trending Topics
01-19-2017, 09:24 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I've got 99 problems but ABC aint one, lol.
Will pull the struts out when coil overs arrive, not sure yet if going with BC Racing or VVK yet.
Will pull the struts out when coil overs arrive, not sure yet if going with BC Racing or VVK yet.
Last edited by DUDMD; 01-19-2017 at 09:26 PM.
01-19-2017, 09:45 PM
#9
Super Member
are you going to fab up your own sway bar? I know reading vv12enthusiast's posts that this is the one thing that no one has yet to come up with for the sl65 coilover conversion
01-21-2017, 06:55 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Today, I've removed both turbos, abc pump, and all hoses/lines that are no longer needed.
Oil drain and water feed lines were cut off, pinched flat and tig welded to seal them and turn them into blockoffs.
Cutoff one oil feed flange from a line, drilled a 21/64 hole and tapped it for 1/8NPT thread. This will now feed my turbo with a 4an oil feed.
Also took a picture of my blue Samco silicone cap over the rear manifold fitting that leaked boost previously and nearly impossible to fix without pulling the engine. The cap completely sealed it and held 25psi previously.
Test fit the M137 non-turbo v12 headers. They perfectly bolt right up, except the front header is pointing right at the motor mount. This is not a problem, as I was going to modify them anyways, and turn them into a 6-2-1 header with a 2" v-band at the end.
The banjo bolts for water return line are M14x1.5, so I'll be removing the banjo bolts and installing plugs to cap it off.
This is why it's impossible to undo the mounts with the engine in the car, unless you find a way to remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the block.
Turbos are removed, the trick is to remove the engine bracket and then you'll have access to the 11mm nuts on the bottom of the manifold.
Turbos and oil/water/boost lines that are no longer going back on the car, ever.
Ends from the oil drains and water feed lines are cutoff, pinched and welded shut to block off the ports.
One of the thinnest welds I've done, used no rod, just fused it together.
Oil drain plug installed.
Original oil feed hose flange was cutoff from the oil feed line, drilled to 21/64 hole and tapped with 1/8th NPT thread.
Water feed lines and oil feed line plate installed.
Rear intake manifold cap that was leaking before, has been capped completely with an even bigger cap. Had to order the Samco cap from UK.
M137 non-turbo headers bolted right up, and will be modified a bit soon. Probably next week, or maybe tomorrow if I don't get lazy and watch football all day.
Oil drain and water feed lines were cut off, pinched flat and tig welded to seal them and turn them into blockoffs.
Cutoff one oil feed flange from a line, drilled a 21/64 hole and tapped it for 1/8NPT thread. This will now feed my turbo with a 4an oil feed.
Also took a picture of my blue Samco silicone cap over the rear manifold fitting that leaked boost previously and nearly impossible to fix without pulling the engine. The cap completely sealed it and held 25psi previously.
Test fit the M137 non-turbo v12 headers. They perfectly bolt right up, except the front header is pointing right at the motor mount. This is not a problem, as I was going to modify them anyways, and turn them into a 6-2-1 header with a 2" v-band at the end.
The banjo bolts for water return line are M14x1.5, so I'll be removing the banjo bolts and installing plugs to cap it off.
This is why it's impossible to undo the mounts with the engine in the car, unless you find a way to remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the block.
Turbos are removed, the trick is to remove the engine bracket and then you'll have access to the 11mm nuts on the bottom of the manifold.
Turbos and oil/water/boost lines that are no longer going back on the car, ever.
Ends from the oil drains and water feed lines are cutoff, pinched and welded shut to block off the ports.
One of the thinnest welds I've done, used no rod, just fused it together.
Oil drain plug installed.
Original oil feed hose flange was cutoff from the oil feed line, drilled to 21/64 hole and tapped with 1/8th NPT thread.
Water feed lines and oil feed line plate installed.
Rear intake manifold cap that was leaking before, has been capped completely with an even bigger cap. Had to order the Samco cap from UK.
M137 non-turbo headers bolted right up, and will be modified a bit soon. Probably next week, or maybe tomorrow if I don't get lazy and watch football all day.
Last edited by DUDMD; 01-21-2017 at 07:00 PM.
01-25-2017, 11:02 PM
#14
Senior Member
It's very evident that complicated things challenge you!!! I wish I had the time, guts and the know-how to tackle a project like this!
Where are you gonna exit the exhaust? Is a muffler in your plan? Stock looking exhaust tip(s) or is this a purely a functional set up? It's neat to see the types of things people like yourself come up with - whether to conceal or let it all hang out...
Thanks for sharing your cool project. Very nice
Where are you gonna exit the exhaust? Is a muffler in your plan? Stock looking exhaust tip(s) or is this a purely a functional set up? It's neat to see the types of things people like yourself come up with - whether to conceal or let it all hang out...
Thanks for sharing your cool project. Very nice
Last edited by Nor Cal SL55; 01-26-2017 at 12:23 AM.
01-26-2017, 12:54 AM
#15
Member
Thread Starter
It's very evident that complicated things challenge you!!! I wish I had the time, guts and the know-how to tackle a project like this!
Where are you gonna exit the exhaust? Is a muffler in your plan? Stock looking exhaust tip(s) or is this a purely a functional set up? It's neat to see the types of things people like yourself come up with - whether to conceal or let it all hang out...
Thanks for sharing your cool project. Very nice
Where are you gonna exit the exhaust? Is a muffler in your plan? Stock looking exhaust tip(s) or is this a purely a functional set up? It's neat to see the types of things people like yourself come up with - whether to conceal or let it all hang out...
Thanks for sharing your cool project. Very nice
I'll be reusing my current muffler tips that I had custom fabbed after the diffuser install. I think it will clean up the sound with these non-turbo v12 headers and make it sound more of a V12.
Driver's side is going to be a 3" downpipe into the 3" tips. Total downpipe length from turbo to end of tips is going to be about a foot.
Passenger side is going to be the wastegate dump tube. I'll be installing a 44mm wastegate around the differential area. Then going to step up from 44mm to 2.5" piping, run that back to the rear and then step up from 2.5" to 3" to attached the tips back on.
Everything is going to have a flex pipe to keep vibration down, easier fitment, and longer lasting/stress relief on the exhaust.
It will retain this look:
01-26-2017, 01:05 AM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Waiting on a local power steering hose specialist to modify my power steering feed hose.
Original one is now too short with the S430 pump. He's going to extend it 4" more forward, and 3" higher to match it up to the pump.
The S430 pump I bought uses a 6 rib pulley. While the stock M275 system is a 7 rib setup. Factory belt is a 7PK2335, so I ordered a 6PK2335 to use for the new setup. Should work no problem, just not going to use the rear pulley rib on all pulleys except power steering pump. Turns out a 6PK2335 is a Ford 7.3 belt, so I'm using an OEM Ford Motorcraft belt.
Overall, fitting the pump up wasn't too bad. Had to space it forward about 7/8" with 3 spacers. Then built a bracket to reinforce it and hold it down even more from moving.
This picture shows how much different the feed line now has to be and why simply mounting a non-abc pump doesn't work.
If someone decides to make a kit out of it, they'll need to supply a modified power steering hose or some sort of an extension adapter.
This picture show the side shot. You can the see the extra bracket I made, as well as the top and lower rear spacers.
There's one more spacer for the lower front bolt as well, but not in this picture.
3 bolts line up perfectly with the bolt pattern of the m275. M8x1.25x70mm bolts was all I needed with about a 7/8" space to mount the pump.
But then the extra bracket to keep it more firm and from moving around.
Original one is now too short with the S430 pump. He's going to extend it 4" more forward, and 3" higher to match it up to the pump.
The S430 pump I bought uses a 6 rib pulley. While the stock M275 system is a 7 rib setup. Factory belt is a 7PK2335, so I ordered a 6PK2335 to use for the new setup. Should work no problem, just not going to use the rear pulley rib on all pulleys except power steering pump. Turns out a 6PK2335 is a Ford 7.3 belt, so I'm using an OEM Ford Motorcraft belt.
Overall, fitting the pump up wasn't too bad. Had to space it forward about 7/8" with 3 spacers. Then built a bracket to reinforce it and hold it down even more from moving.
This picture shows how much different the feed line now has to be and why simply mounting a non-abc pump doesn't work.
If someone decides to make a kit out of it, they'll need to supply a modified power steering hose or some sort of an extension adapter.
This picture show the side shot. You can the see the extra bracket I made, as well as the top and lower rear spacers.
There's one more spacer for the lower front bolt as well, but not in this picture.
3 bolts line up perfectly with the bolt pattern of the m275. M8x1.25x70mm bolts was all I needed with about a 7/8" space to mount the pump.
But then the extra bracket to keep it more firm and from moving around.
Last edited by DUDMD; 01-26-2017 at 01:15 AM.
01-29-2017, 02:21 AM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
01-30-2017, 01:56 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Turbos will be for sale
Speedriven Billet BOVs
Speedriven 3" Catless Downpipes (SL65/SL600 fitment only)
Stock downpipes with good cats, cutoff at midsection during speedriven downpipe install.
ABC pump - new oem pump 2 year old
ABC hoses
ABC valve assemblies - rear is the new updated design, still looks fairly new.
ABC struts - rear look brand new still, fronts have torn dust boots
If anyone is interested in parts, please do not post here in the thread but email me or send a PM. I don't want to turn this into a for sale thread.
Last edited by DUDMD; 01-30-2017 at 02:33 PM.
01-30-2017, 02:43 PM
#23
Member
Thread Starter
Engine is ready to go back into the car, will actually drop it in 20-30 minutes from now. Just need to screw in the oil feed 1/8NPT to -4AN fitting. Oil drain fitting will be installed with the engine in the car, as it will be easier to remove the pan and install the fitting from underneath.
Power steering hose was extended, but the guy made it about an inch too long, clearly longer than the 4" I requested, but not a problem. Just goes forward more than what I expected, but will still function just fine and be OK with clearance. He ended just cutting it, and using a large tube to slip fit over and solder everything together. This guy is 75 years old, been making power steering hoses for 30-40 years now, so I trust his modifications will work no problem.
Modified exhaust manifolds are installed and have a 2" v-band male/female flanges welded on. I decided to just MIG the manifold, since there were some decent gaps, would be a pain to tig it. The rest of the exhaust and intake setup will all be TIGed.
Original power steering hose:
Modified extended power steering hose to reach a V8 power steering pump
Exhaust manifold on driver's side. Motor mounts look fairly new, so they will remain. You can now also see how easy it will be to replace them in the future if needed. Simply pull off the downpipes and undo the top 3 bolts.
Passenger side exhaust manifold.
Power steering hose was extended, but the guy made it about an inch too long, clearly longer than the 4" I requested, but not a problem. Just goes forward more than what I expected, but will still function just fine and be OK with clearance. He ended just cutting it, and using a large tube to slip fit over and solder everything together. This guy is 75 years old, been making power steering hoses for 30-40 years now, so I trust his modifications will work no problem.
Modified exhaust manifolds are installed and have a 2" v-band male/female flanges welded on. I decided to just MIG the manifold, since there were some decent gaps, would be a pain to tig it. The rest of the exhaust and intake setup will all be TIGed.
Original power steering hose:
Modified extended power steering hose to reach a V8 power steering pump
Exhaust manifold on driver's side. Motor mounts look fairly new, so they will remain. You can now also see how easy it will be to replace them in the future if needed. Simply pull off the downpipes and undo the top 3 bolts.
Passenger side exhaust manifold.
01-30-2017, 06:20 PM
#25
Member
Thread Starter
