SLK/R170: SLK230 - cranks but wont start
09-28-2010, 12:53 AM
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1998 SLK230 BAHAMA BLUE
SLK230 - cranks but wont start
I have a 1998 slk230 with high milage that is my teenage daughters car.
Today it wouldnt start for her when she got out of school. I put jumper cables on it and it would crank just fine, just not firing at all. Got it towed home and after a little research I discovered there was a blown fuse (#11 ignition coil voltage supply) in the fuse box on the right side by the firewall. I put a new fuse in and it cranked right up. I figured a shorted wire is what blew the fuse so I start moving wires from the coils packs (by the fuel rail) and the first wire I touched blew the fuse again, it stalled. Taking a closer look I notice the harness is routed up against a lift hook on top of the engine right before where the harness goes to the coil packs. I peeled the cloth tape back (real brittle when its 13 years old) and found a bare wire that was grounding out. improper tape job and a 20 cents fuse and we're good.
I am probably the only person this could happen to but thought I'd share anyway.
Picture #1 :
Fuse box in engine compartment, drivers side (the states) by fire wall. #11 has the fuse out in this picture - right column second down.
Picture #2 :
Wiring harness to the coil packs by the lift hook on top of engine. It was up tight against the lift hook, this picture is after I peeled the clothtape back.
Picture #3 :
A different angle of harness by fuelrail routed against lifthook to coils.
Picture #4 :
Bare wire -not good. I always wonder how something like this would work out at a dealership shop.
Today it wouldnt start for her when she got out of school. I put jumper cables on it and it would crank just fine, just not firing at all. Got it towed home and after a little research I discovered there was a blown fuse (#11 ignition coil voltage supply) in the fuse box on the right side by the firewall. I put a new fuse in and it cranked right up. I figured a shorted wire is what blew the fuse so I start moving wires from the coils packs (by the fuel rail) and the first wire I touched blew the fuse again, it stalled. Taking a closer look I notice the harness is routed up against a lift hook on top of the engine right before where the harness goes to the coil packs. I peeled the cloth tape back (real brittle when its 13 years old) and found a bare wire that was grounding out. improper tape job and a 20 cents fuse and we're good.
I am probably the only person this could happen to but thought I'd share anyway.
Picture #1 :
Fuse box in engine compartment, drivers side (the states) by fire wall. #11 has the fuse out in this picture - right column second down.
Picture #2 :
Wiring harness to the coil packs by the lift hook on top of engine. It was up tight against the lift hook, this picture is after I peeled the clothtape back.Picture #3 :
A different angle of harness by fuelrail routed against lifthook to coils.
Picture #4 :
Bare wire -not good. I always wonder how something like this would work out at a dealership shop.
