slk320 100k maintenance

[Killahkal88]

I've looked around, but haven't found many threads relating to the Slk320s. Plenty of the Kompressors however. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone have any suggestions on specifically what kind of preventative maintenance I'm looking at seeing how I'm close to the 100k mile mark - aside from the obvious. I changed my transmission fluid not too long ago and my 2 pre-cat o2 sensors. Brake fluid looks nice and clean still. I still haven't gone around to replacing the differential fluid or power steering (although i already set aside a liter of the Pentosin 11s). I'm thinking about replacing my spark plugs, wires, radiator hoses & coolant, thermostat and water pump. Eventually I want to get into suspensions as well - bushings, endlinks, etc on top of like transmission or engine mounts. Maybe my alternator or alternator regulator just to be safe. Oh, and maybe a new valve cover gasket too for safe measure. Is there anything else I'm missing that is pretty particular with these cars that may require addressing? Any feedback or suggestions is appreciated!

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[Ricks170.465]

As the old saying goes, if it ain't broke don't fix it! Now as a professional AMT (Jets) preventitive maintenance is very important, but just to change things because... can create its own set of problems, as I have learned over many years.
I have 51k on my 2001 SLK320, and the main things you should do are, use the best fluids and parts you can, change transmission oil by 60k, I changed mine at 50k. If your pushing 100k you should drain, flush and service the differential, an independant M-B pro mechanic I know changes the differential oil for his customers every B svc. I changed mine at 49k. check your hoses to see if they are cracking at the ends or soft, flushing the coolant can increase the life of the system.
I personally would never change the alternator unless it is giving you problems or starting to make noise.
Flushing the brake fluid every 2-3 years is good due to the ability of it to absorb moisture. oh and of course change your engine oil often, I do mine at 5k because Mobil 1 and Mann filters are much cheaper than the alternative, and also inspect your drive belt condition, my original is still installed (Gates OEM), but I purchased a new Gates belt (Micro V) at O'Reilly auto parts and will replace it by 60k

[Killahkal88]

Originally Posted by Ricks170.465

As the old saying goes, if it ain't broke don't fix it! Now as a professional AMT (Jets) preventitive maintenance is very important, but just to change things because... can create its own set of problems, as I have learned over many years.
I have 51k on my 2001 SLK320, and the main things you should do are, use the best fluids and parts you can, change transmission oil by 60k, I changed mine at 50k. If your pushing 100k you should drain, flush and service the differential, an independant M-B pro mechanic I know changes the differential oil for his customers every B svc. I changed mine at 49k. check your hoses to see if they are cracking at the ends or soft, flushing the coolant can increase the life of the system.
I personally would never change the alternator unless it is giving you problems or starting to make noise.
Flushing the brake fluid every 2-3 years is good due to the ability of it to absorb moisture. oh and of course change your engine oil often, I do mine at 5k because Mobil 1 and Mann filters are much cheaper than the alternative, and also inspect your drive belt condition, my original is still installed (Gates OEM), but I purchased a new Gates belt (Micro V) at O'Reilly auto parts and will replace it by 60k

Thanks for your reply - the only reply I got since I've posted this lol.

Yeah, I recently changed all the fluids and replaced my transmission plug adapter since the o-rings on those I hear gets really worn and causes leaks. Changed all my spark plugs, wires, air, oil, and cabin filters. And also changed my fuel/gas filter. Car runs like a champ at the moment :]

I checked the serpentine belt; it's in fantastic shape (probably replaced). I also silicone lubed most of the hinges, gears, and rubber pieces along the hardtop as well. Hopefully everything continues to work beautifully as it should.

[Ricks170.465]

That should cover it for many miles to come. I guess you could also look at your brake pads and discs to see what condition they are in. the sensor should indicate worn pads at about 3mm thickness. I am on my second set of pads fronts only, (original M-B). I think that they are made by Jurid but they are installed in ATE calipers. I just purchased some new ATE front discs and ATE pads for mine but the pads are at 5mm, and the rear disc is shows minimal wear at 51k so I just bought some ATE pads. It will probably be a while before the brakes will require work, but the parts were available at a good price so I grabbed them.
Cheers.

[Killahkal88]

are the front brake pads 151.4mm wide or 156mm?

[Ricks170.465]

I am not sure about the width of the pads, the front pad set of 4 that I bought were "ATE" originals, Mercedes part no. 004 420 03 20, ATE part no. EU740 (607087). I got them at Pelican parts for $59./set
The back brake pad set I got were also "ATE" originals MB part no.002 420 71 20, ATE part no. EU779 (604064) I bought the rear pad set at AutohauzAZ.com for $48.

Note; you can buy M-B pads at genuinemercedesparts.com they are a Mercedes car dealership in Atlanta, GA that also has a web store. front pads were $83.20 and the rear set price was $64 and the pads are made by Jurid. I have bought parts from them before and they have good service.