SLS/R197/C197 AMG: Gullwing strut replacement
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Gullwing strut replacement
Has anyone had to replace the struts on their gullwing doors yet? Mine don't have quite the zip I'd expect nor do they fully extend without a little help.
I'm wondering if there's a DIY procedure (or video) out there with the right part #s to order, etc. It should be a very easy/quick project but likely need another person to hold the door up (or employ a very long broomstick).
I'm wondering if there's a DIY procedure (or video) out there with the right part #s to order, etc. It should be a very easy/quick project but likely need another person to hold the door up (or employ a very long broomstick).
#2
Senior Member
If your car is still under warranty take it in and MB will replace them. They replaced both of mine because they were squeaking. Some oils probably would have done the trick but they replaced instead.
#3
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I am a google master > http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...979800064.html
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cls55 (07-09-2017)
#4
I am a google master > http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...979800064.html
That you are, David !
I speak on behalf of other members when I say we appreciate your contribution to this forum.
Thanks!
J
#5
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I am a google master > http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...979800064.html
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#7
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sls gullwing, sls roadster, panoz esperante gtlm
Replacing gullwing door struts
All were making noise and all replaced while still in the entrance bay.
Took the SLS mechanic less than 5 minutes to place all of them.
That was 1 1 /2 years ago and they have been perfect since.
Took the SLS mechanic less than 5 minutes to place all of them.
That was 1 1 /2 years ago and they have been perfect since.
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#8
Newbie
Gullwing strut replacement
#9
Member
You can find it on the usual online sites
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-gas-pressure-strut-1979800064
https://www.mbpartsworld.com/oem-par...rut-1979800064
#13
Member
Changing gas struts are usually super easy. Support the door at it's highest position. There's a retaining clip on either end(the paper clip looking thing in the picture). Rotate the rounded end away for the strut shaft. Then slide it out of the hole, away from the strut end. Pull off the ends of the old strut one at a time from the ball joints(may take a little force) and insert the new strut ends with the pins also removed. Insert the pins and repeat for all the struts. If the struts aren't completely dead, then you can usually save money by replacing only 1 per side.
Last edited by Houdini; 03-22-2018 at 12:48 AM.
#14
I bought the part number listed above and was able to change the 2 struts on my drivers side door. However, it was very difficult to remove/displace the old struts.
The first strut I was able to finally take out by getting full “yanking” power running 90 degrees against the ball/socket joint. When I simply tried to pull the strut from the ball joint it would not come undone (at either the top or the bottom sockets). So I sort of leaned against the car, getting the full length of my arm extending and the full power of my upcoming yank running lengthwise with the body of the SLS, which is directly outward from the ball/socket joint. A hard yank finally popped it out. That was the bottom socket, which in my opinion is the better place to start. The top socket was easy to remove after that.
Then I had someone hold up the door while I put the new strut into place. I had to press very strongly to pop the top socket into place and the same for the bottom. Once it is in place you know it as it “pops” into place.
The 2nd strut was even more difficult to remove. Yanking didn’t work. Neither did striking lightly with a hammer. Finally a screw driver was used to “jimmy” (sp?) in between the ball joint and the frame. This did pop out the strut. I suspect this method is not recommend by MB. But it worked and I was able to replace the 2nd strut.
The first strut I was able to finally take out by getting full “yanking” power running 90 degrees against the ball/socket joint. When I simply tried to pull the strut from the ball joint it would not come undone (at either the top or the bottom sockets). So I sort of leaned against the car, getting the full length of my arm extending and the full power of my upcoming yank running lengthwise with the body of the SLS, which is directly outward from the ball/socket joint. A hard yank finally popped it out. That was the bottom socket, which in my opinion is the better place to start. The top socket was easy to remove after that.
Then I had someone hold up the door while I put the new strut into place. I had to press very strongly to pop the top socket into place and the same for the bottom. Once it is in place you know it as it “pops” into place.
The 2nd strut was even more difficult to remove. Yanking didn’t work. Neither did striking lightly with a hammer. Finally a screw driver was used to “jimmy” (sp?) in between the ball joint and the frame. This did pop out the strut. I suspect this method is not recommend by MB. But it worked and I was able to replace the 2nd strut.
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cls55 (07-19-2018)
#15
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Thanks for the write up! At least the explosive bolts didn't go off! 😁