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For quite a while my ESP BAS light has been glowing so no cruise control but what I did not know was that I had no brake lights working
I had it plugged in and they suggested a new brake switch
I replaced the switch and checked the fuse to the brake lights ( fuse ok)
On restarting the car the warning lights remained on and the brake lights were still out.
But after several hours and restarting the car the warning lights went out and the brake lights worked correctly.
This only lasted 2 days and I am now back to square one with warning lights back on and no brake lights !!!!!!
Any bright ideas ???
What kind of brake late switch did you buy? OEM bosch? If yes, and if fuse is working then it could be the Module unit itself. But doubtful. Make sure you double check all the brake light fuses. It should only be one fuse but double check -
Thanks for your help I have checked the fuse and all is well
I am now waiting for the fault to occur again(as all is working right now.... But for how long I don't know) so I can wiggle the fuse to see if the brake lights go out. My logic is that it will prove that the problem then is the fuse holder ......as the fuse is actually ok
I bought the brake switch from my local dealer Merc dealer that is
I compared both switches and they were identical I think except that the new one the plugger stuck out more than the old one
I can't get the clip to release under the ignition. All others I got to release without breaking. Thoughts why this one won't let go? I don't wanna break anything but I really need to replace the switch. HELP!!!!!
I looked up on the net for a video clip on how to do the job and sure enough there was one from the states that showed in detail how to do it
From what I remember there was no clip just a need to tilt it and pull but watch a video clip first
I know this is way old, but my brake pedal jiggles..lol from side to side..you think I need to replace mine? And I have all of the warning lights...ESP, ABS and BAS...I noticed just yesterday. The malfunctions went away for about a half hours and I pulled up to a light..the pedal..like stuttered. Scared me to death, I immediately pulled over..almost felt like the brakes were giving out. Drove it about 10 more feet to hit the brake and same thing. I restarted and the malfunctions were back? Also, still haven't found that aux battery..
I replaced my brake light switch today. I'd figured I would summarize the job description some of the notes from our friends at benzworld weren't so clear. I've also attached a few pics & a few posts that should help along with benzworld link, incase you want to do more reading. *Excuse the handwriting on the pics HPlaptop pad.
My symptoms weren't consistent at first. Occasionally every few months my ABS/BAS/ESP would go on every time I would hit the brake pedal. I noticed that it was getting worse as it would go off 2x a week, but the funny part was when I started to hear a squeak every time I would press the brake pedal. (Thinking to myself great now what?) WD40 it was so annoying. So just the other day I had to slam my brakes as I was cut off by grandma my ABS/BAS/ESP immediately went on. When I got home I turned the car off/on again pressed the brake pedal and immediately got the ABS/BAS/ESP at this point I knew for sure brake light switch went South. Headed to MB to pick up a new brake light switch, they charged me $34 big ones !!!! Whatever ! Wasn't giving them the satisfaction of charging me upward $150+ for the job. or for them to say that something else is wrong.
20 min. later removed the old brake light switch and when I was examining the old switch when I pressed it down it made that mouse squeak noise couldn't believe it... It was the switch this whole time
Killed two birds with one stone....
Hope this helps.....
Armani
***Please note a dying battery can also cause these symptoms.
Black bottom
Light colors up top – for brake light switch
***3rd Pic where the green dot is.. to the right where the empty slot is- that's where the brake light switch is located
Checking back in with you guys to report my success and repay this wonderful board by contributing some other, hopefully helpful, info on my experiences with my 2000 E320. The brake switch is $18 from a dealer. When I got it I asked, "Hey, is there a recall on this defect yet?" The parts guy said, "There ought to be for as many of these as I sell."
I found removing the panel was the most difficult part, because I took it completely out. This is NOT necessary. If you do, you have to remove the hood release, and OBD connectors. But if you just let the panel drop down a few inches you can easily get access to the switch, it's right there in front of you. You DO NOT have to get down on your back and look up into the maze under the dash. This alone will save you 30 minutes. My suggestion, since your model may differ from mine is to buy the new part first and note the tab on it, which when pushed, allows you to easily rotate the switch 1/4 turn and remove it. Then there are two wiring connectors to remove. That's all, there was no "ratchet" adjustment on mine. In fact you can test the functioning (see if your error lights go out and the brake lights work, before you physically reinstall the switch.
My BAS/EGP lamp went out, ABS lamp went out, brake lights worked !! Gave it a test drive and the cruise control is working again. Yippee!
I might point out that if you are reading this thread and HAVE NOT yet experienced these errors please note that probably the most serious of the symptoms is NOT reported to you in error messages. I mean, you can live without cruise control, electronic stability control and even antilock brakes, but do you want to be driving without brake lights? I was, for a couple months now and I thought my error lights was related to a defective speed sensor on the brake caliper, and been waiting for warm weather to get to it, when my wife was following me one day and told me I had no brake lights.
It's pretty scary pulling that pan off the first time because it comes off with a loud crack like something broke but as long as you start from the left (assuming you are in a left hand drive car) and remove the clips working toward the middle it does manage to come off in one piece as long as you remember that the clips attaching the pan to the center console you pull UP on instead of out. Yes up I said like toward the roof. The rest is a cake walk as you well know.
Five year old thread but helped me out tremendously last night. It only took me 15min to do it, 1st time. Just pull the clips down (start with a plastic tool) , reach in, push the clip in on the Side of the switch, and twist clockwise to remove it. I forgot there was one screw to remove on the bottom and the right side needed to be pulled up to unclip. The rest is gravy. Thanx a bunch!
Five year old thread but helped me out tremendously last night. It only took me 15min to do it, 1st time. Just pull the clips down (start with a plastic tool) , reach in, push the clip in on the Side of the switch, and twist clockwise to remove it. I forgot there was one screw to remove on the bottom and the right side needed to be pulled up to unclip. The rest is gravy. Thanx a bunch!
I bought a Mercedes last night and it says right brake light out The bold is good so I told my way to watch push the break. She told me it goes on for a second then goes off A few seconds later goes on for a second and goes off is it a sensor or if you fuse
Before I get into the brake light switch as a possible fix, here's the short story: I replaced my brake light bulbs (with OEM from the dealership) and now my brake lights will not come on at all and I'm getting the ABS/BAS/ESP warning. I checked the #2 fuse, it was blown, and now I'm blowing every #2 fuse that I install.
Could this be the brake light switch, or more likely the bulbs I just bought?
Try to see third brake light bulb, it may went bad touching to the circuit or not properly contact to the negative base..!!
ZAYED,,
Thanks, Zayed! When you say third light bulb do you mean the brake lights in the rear window?
I removed the two brake light bulbs and I'm still blowing fuses/ABS/BAS/ESP lights up immediately. I'm beginning to suspect the brake light switch, but it's too late now, I'll deal with that tomorrow and/or Monday since the dealership is closed tomorrow.
Yeah sure, the light in the rear window, sometimes the bulb in third light collapse the the ESP/BAS circuit..!!
ZAYED,,
Okay, I can see how that's possible, but how do I get to it? Do I have to remove the entire panel at the base of the rear window, or is there a way of accessing it form the trunk. I do see a series of wires in the trunk that seem to lead to the light but I can't find where they end.
In telling the short story I left out an important detail: my passenger side tail light needed to be replaced (I backed into a post hidden from my view- another long story). I decided to replace it with a until I found on Ebay, and paid less than $40.00 for it. After about 7 blown fuses testing everything but this part, the problem seems to be narrowed down to the new Taiwan made lens.
After careful inspection it appears that it should work properly, but who knows the quality of the circuitry
I plugged my old cracked until back in and BOOM- all codes and functionality restored. I will order a replacement part from the dealership tomorrow and hope it doesn't hurt too badly.
Do I have to remove the entire panel at the base of the rear window, or is there a way of accessing it form the trunk. I do see a series of wires in the trunk that seem to lead to the light but I can't find where they end.
You're absolutely correct- the entire unit has to be replaced. It is VERY difficult to get to and I'm glad this wasn't the problem after all. I do need to replace the passenger side tail light assembly. The dealership cost is $157.00 but ECS also has it for $108.00. I will NOT pay $40.00 again, in this case you get what you pay for
I have a 2001 E430 Sport. After turning my headlights on, I get a slight hesitation when I accelerate. After accelerating, the ABS/BAS/ESP light come on. Once the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on, my cruse control and traction control does not work. Also, my rear window brake light stays on when the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on. The light is on even when I am not applying the brakes. My mechanic has replaced the brake light switch and the ABS sensors. The issue is still present. Any ideas what the problem could be?
I have a 2001 E430 Sport. After turning my headlights on, I get a slight hesitation when I accelerate. After accelerating, the ABS/BAS/ESP light come on. Once the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on, my cruse control and traction control does not work. Also, my rear window brake light stays on when the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on. The light is on even when I am not applying the brakes. My mechanic has replaced the brake light switch and the ABS sensors. The issue is still present. Any ideas what the problem could be?
That actually sounds more like it could be the short (that Zayed explained to me above) in your 3rd brake light. It's a possibility I would check.
Hi all. I noticed that I had no brake lights and found that the wiring was missing from my brake pedal switch. Mercedes provided me with new clips for the brake pedal switch but did not let me know which coloured wires go to which of the six tabs, on the pedal switch. Does anyone know how to wire this, from the harness, which has four wires, white, pink, orange and brown? Great forum! Glad to find it!
Originally Posted by armaniE55
Hey Guys,
I replaced my brake light switch today. I'd figured I would summarize the job description some of the notes from our friends at benzworld weren't so clear. I've also attached a few pics & a few posts that should help along with benzworld link, incase you want to do more reading. *Excuse the handwriting on the pics HPlaptop pad.
My symptoms weren't consistent at first. Occasionally every few months my ABS/BAS/ESP would go on every time I would hit the brake pedal. I noticed that it was getting worse as it would go off 2x a week, but the funny part was when I started to hear a squeak every time I would press the brake pedal. (Thinking to myself great now what?) WD40 it was so annoying. So just the other day I had to slam my brakes as I was cut off by grandma my ABS/BAS/ESP immediately went on. When I got home I turned the car off/on again pressed the brake pedal and immediately got the ABS/BAS/ESP at this point I knew for sure brake light switch went South. Headed to MB to pick up a new brake light switch, they charged me $34 big ones !!!! Whatever ! Wasn't giving them the satisfaction of charging me upward $150+ for the job. or for them to say that something else is wrong.
20 min. later removed the old brake light switch and when I was examining the old switch when I pressed it down it made that mouse squeak noise couldn't believe it... It was the switch this whole time
Killed two birds with one stone....
Hope this helps.....
Armani
***Please note a dying battery can also cause these symptoms.
Black bottom
Light colors up top – for brake light switch
***3rd Pic where the green dot is.. to the right where the empty slot is- that's where the brake light switch is located
Checking back in with you guys to report my success and repay this wonderful board by contributing some other, hopefully helpful, info on my experiences with my 2000 E320. The brake switch is $18 from a dealer. When I got it I asked, "Hey, is there a recall on this defect yet?" The parts guy said, "There ought to be for as many of these as I sell."
I found removing the panel was the most difficult part, because I took it completely out. This is NOT necessary. If you do, you have to remove the hood release, and OBD connectors. But if you just let the panel drop down a few inches you can easily get access to the switch, it's right there in front of you. You DO NOT have to get down on your back and look up into the maze under the dash. This alone will save you 30 minutes. My suggestion, since your model may differ from mine is to buy the new part first and note the tab on it, which when pushed, allows you to easily rotate the switch 1/4 turn and remove it. Then there are two wiring connectors to remove. That's all, there was no "ratchet" adjustment on mine. In fact you can test the functioning (see if your error lights go out and the brake lights work, before you physically reinstall the switch.
My BAS/EGP lamp went out, ABS lamp went out, brake lights worked !! Gave it a test drive and the cruise control is working again. Yippee!
I might point out that if you are reading this thread and HAVE NOT yet experienced these errors please note that probably the most serious of the symptoms is NOT reported to you in error messages. I mean, you can live without cruise control, electronic stability control and even antilock brakes, but do you want to be driving without brake lights? I was, for a couple months now and I thought my error lights was related to a defective speed sensor on the brake caliper, and been waiting for warm weather to get to it, when my wife was following me one day and told me I had no brake lights.
It's pretty scary pulling that pan off the first time because it comes off with a loud crack like something broke but as long as you start from the left (assuming you are in a left hand drive car) and remove the clips working toward the middle it does manage to come off in one piece as long as you remember that the clips attaching the pan to the center console you pull UP on instead of out. Yes up I said like toward the roof. The rest is a cake walk as you well know.
Cruise control issue after brake light switch replacement
Originally Posted by armaniE55
Hey Guys,
I replaced my brake light switch today. I'd figured I would summarize the job description some of the notes from our friends at benzworld weren't so clear. I've also attached a few pics & a few posts that should help along with benzworld link, incase you want to do more reading. *Excuse the handwriting on the pics HPlaptop pad.
My symptoms weren't consistent at first. Occasionally every few months my ABS/BAS/ESP would go on every time I would hit the brake pedal. I noticed that it was getting worse as it would go off 2x a week, but the funny part was when I started to hear a squeak every time I would press the brake pedal. (Thinking to myself great now what?) WD40 it was so annoying. So just the other day I had to slam my brakes as I was cut off by grandma my ABS/BAS/ESP immediately went on. When I got home I turned the car off/on again pressed the brake pedal and immediately got the ABS/BAS/ESP at this point I knew for sure brake light switch went South. Headed to MB to pick up a new brake light switch, they charged me $34 big ones !!!! Whatever ! Wasn't giving them the satisfaction of charging me upward $150+ for the job. or for them to say that something else is wrong.
20 min. later removed the old brake light switch and when I was examining the old switch when I pressed it down it made that mouse squeak noise couldn't believe it... It was the switch this whole time
Killed two birds with one stone....
Hope this helps.....
Armani
***Please note a dying battery can also cause these symptoms.
Black bottom
Light colors up top – for brake light switch
***3rd Pic where the green dot is.. to the right where the empty slot is- that's where the brake light switch is located
Checking back in with you guys to report my success and repay this wonderful board by contributing some other, hopefully helpful, info on my experiences with my 2000 E320. The brake switch is $18 from a dealer. When I got it I asked, "Hey, is there a recall on this defect yet?" The parts guy said, "There ought to be for as many of these as I sell."
I found removing the panel was the most difficult part, because I took it completely out. This is NOT necessary. If you do, you have to remove the hood release, and OBD connectors. But if you just let the panel drop down a few inches you can easily get access to the switch, it's right there in front of you. You DO NOT have to get down on your back and look up into the maze under the dash. This alone will save you 30 minutes. My suggestion, since your model may differ from mine is to buy the new part first and note the tab on it, which when pushed, allows you to easily rotate the switch 1/4 turn and remove it. Then there are two wiring connectors to remove. That's all, there was no "ratchet" adjustment on mine. In fact you can test the functioning (see if your error lights go out and the brake lights work, before you physically reinstall the switch.
My BAS/EGP lamp went out, ABS lamp went out, brake lights worked !! Gave it a test drive and the cruise control is working again. Yippee!
I might point out that if you are reading this thread and HAVE NOT yet experienced these errors please note that probably the most serious of the symptoms is NOT reported to you in error messages. I mean, you can live without cruise control, electronic stability control and even antilock brakes, but do you want to be driving without brake lights? I was, for a couple months now and I thought my error lights was related to a defective speed sensor on the brake caliper, and been waiting for warm weather to get to it, when my wife was following me one day and told me I had no brake lights.
It's pretty scary pulling that pan off the first time because it comes off with a loud crack like something broke but as long as you start from the left (assuming you are in a left hand drive car) and remove the clips working toward the middle it does manage to come off in one piece as long as you remember that the clips attaching the pan to the center console you pull UP on instead of out. Yes up I said like toward the roof. The rest is a cake walk as you well know.
Hi everyone, ive just joined and ive just read thru this thread and ive replaced my brake light switch on my e350 w212, i know this is a old thread but i hope i get a reply, anyway on these ones its much harder to renove compared to older modal e classes, after replacing all warning lights have gone and all is well, brakes work, esp, e.t.c… i thought i'd test the cruise control and it doesnt work, no warning lights or anything, just says 'cruise control --- mph' but doesnt actually work, speed limiter works perfect but cruise doesnt work and i dont know what step to take next or what to check, any help will be great thanks!
06-04-2012, 04:13 PM
URGENT!!!
it was so annoying. So just the other day I had to slam my brakes as I was cut off by grandma my ABS/BAS/ESP immediately went on. When I got home I turned the car off/on again pressed the brake pedal and immediately got the ABS/BAS/ESP at this point I knew for sure brake light switch went South. Headed to MB to pick up a new brake light switch, they charged me $34 big ones 
!!!! Whatever ! Wasn't giving them the satisfaction of charging me upward $150+ for the job. 
or for them to say that something else is wrong. 
!
