Tall Giraffe

Normal oil change, with MAF cleaning but today I decided to change out the power steering fluid.



Used the suck and refill method. I started out with the turkey baster but found that there was a ton left over in the reservoir. Unhappy, I called the Mityvac off the bench. Thoroughly cleaned the hose out from the oil change and got a bunch more out. Had the wheels elevated and slowly turned the wheel lock to lock and held for a brief moment at the lock while the engine was running.



After the first pull but not the total amount from the extraction. After the third pull it looked like, well, I guess bong water. Turns out I miscacluated the final refill amount so I am short a little fluid and also paranoid so I ordered a pint more and will extract once more and refill. Wasnt whining or anything but I was also short before and upon busting a u felt a little jutter in the steering wheel. Even being a bit short like before with the new fluid it feels smoother no jutter. Ill snap a pic of the final extraction after a little running around.

snooozie

TG I might do that once this cold snap pass through. I already had my two gallon Mobil 1 waiting for the well over due oil change. Did you get the steering fluid from the dealer or somewhere else.

Tall Giraffe

After researching here, BMW, and VW forums I came to the conclusion Pentosin CHF 11S is rebranded OEM and acceptable. $22 from Amazon. Also found in many of the local parts stores for about $25. But it only comes in 1 liter cans, which is why you should reserve enough not to have to order the Febi brand pint for $13 more to have the proper level like I have to. Prestone makes one as well that is compliant but its your preference.

snooozie

Awesome I'll get it from Amazon then. I had never change my power steering fluid since I had the car so I think this is a good time

snooozie

[After the first pull but not the total amount from the extraction. After the third pull it looked like, well, I guess bong water. Turns out I miscacluated the final refill amount so I am short a little fluid and also paranoid so I ordered a pint more and will extract once more and refill. Wasnt whining or anything but I was also short before and upon busting a u felt a little jutter in the steering wheel. Even being a bit short like before with the new fluid it feels smoother no jutter. Ill snap a pic of the final extraction after a little running around.[/QUOTE]

How many cans should I buy and what is the proper level....did you top it up as you see after driving a bit?

Tall Giraffe

I used this thread as a guide. I only bought 1 liter as i thought 2 would be over kill. Since its so easy a job and such a cheap cost, I could easily do it months or a year from now just as a follow up. But I am sure that after all these years and miles a total flush would be the only route to purity and this should extend the life of the rack.

When in the air, I turn the wheel lock to lock 10-15 times to try and get the fluid through. I am waiting on the the remaining today or tomorrow so if your not in a hurry, Ill snap a pic after a liter of changes so you can decide your plan before you order.

snooozie

Yes do let me know as I want to make sure I order the correct amount.

Tall Giraffe

So here is a pic of another pull after 2 days of driving around. I shook both bottles so you can see the difference in tones between the first and last pull.



Cleaner but you can tell there is a slight mixture of old an new. Aside from removing the return line to drain as much as possible each time, this is what to expect after a liter.

A helpful tip is that after I sucked all of the fluid out with the Mityvac, about 10-12 oz of new fluid brought it back to max 80c line. I filled some in, started my car and slowly filled the resevoir and measured with the dip stick till proper. Car temp was 80c while the job was being done. Ill check in a day or two to make sure it is consistent.

TG

snooozie

TG - so you can safely say to get two cans would be plenty? Extract the original amount out and put in the same amount and then run the car for a bit then extract the amount out and do the same. Do this a couple of times as the fluid gets lighter. Drive for a couple of days and do a final pull and refill and that should do it.

Sorry, I just look at your link...80C line is the refill but still I'll check in a day or so as the fluid flows even.

Tall Giraffe

I think so. I guess with the mityvac you don't really need to raise the front of the car in the air. Extract, refill, drive a day or two and repeat. Just takes more time than a service done all at once.

Rough math here but a litter has 33 oz so about 3 per exchange per liter.Just be sure to save enough plus for the final refill. Id remove that amount first and use the rest.

ddb

New plugs, wires, a few breather box hoses, CPS sensor, and air filters @ 73,111 miles.

snooozie

Sorry folks...I have not change the headlight bulb in this car before and after twisting the cover off and unplug the red cap, I have no idea how to get the bulb out can someone please help?

Tall Giraffe

I think the amber ring has to come off. If I remember correctly, gently loosen the screws then twist, ever so gently, as that amber piece is brittle after all these years.

snooozie

Damn, the wires look like its harden too. Feels like doing an archeological bone find I'll have to do the procedure this weekend...so you have to loosen the tiny little screws? Why can't people make this easy knowing a bulb might go in at least 10 years?

Tall Giraffe

Loosen the 3 screws enough to slide the amber ring to the left to remove. Loosen the screws well enough or it has the potential to snap. I was extremely careful and mine did crack when I changed my bulbs. The amber ring holds the bulb into place.

snooozie

It was such a nice afternoon that I decided to replace my license plate bulb (one side) and the trunk lid bumpers. I had these things sitting in my car since this past winter anyway, taking the back trunk lid mat wasn't that hard to do but if you guys attempt to change the license plate bulbs please make sure to slowly pray the plastic fasteners out from the mat as one of mine went flying and I had a hard time looking for it
The bumpers were not so bad as the side mats next to the tail lights was easy to pull out. Here's some pictures. My rubber bumpers were so brittle that they cripple like bread crumbs when I pull them out

snooozie

This is what's left of the other side of the bumpers

Tall Giraffe

What are the purpose of those again? One of mine has fallen off and the other barely hanging on.

snooozie

I think they are to hold the lid plumb and not have the trunk rattling or vibrate when you drive. 15 years of sitting under the trunk with the weather...I'm surprise these things still have the rubber attach to them.

illest

I fixed some rattling noises from my front suspension, one of the bolts that holds the stabilizer bar bushing was loose and rounded off so the little heat shield was rattling over bumps.


I am still getting a chirping noise from the front passenger side, i think it might be a ball joint. Is there a good way to check and know for certain?

TwoTone-Gent

Make sure there isn't any cracking in the lower control arm where the ball is mounted. I replaced left side last fall myself.

illest

@TwoTone I'll check on that.

Did the fuel filter today.

TwoTone-Gent

I replaced that last Spring. I also hear a good hummm noise which I believe is the fuel pump. That humming has always been there since I bought it last year. Is it normal to hear a little hum from it?

illest

mine is very quiet. If the doors are closed I cannot hear it

Tall Giraffe

Battery has been acting funny where it would crank fine but if started within a few hours like when running errands, it would sound weak and lights dimmed. Had the autoparts store check it out and the voltage was dipping to 11.2-11.6.





Terminal base had a crack so it was time to replace either way. Battery lasted 10 years i think according to the stamp. June 06.