NAFT1

So the brakes on these cars are pretty straightforward. There areare a few things to consider, though. I decided to make a DIY since I could not find one. Just took me about 40 minutes to do the front axle even taking pictures. The usual disclaimers exist; I'm not responsible for anything you screw up on your car if you attempt this.

After removing the wheel the first thing to do is to remove the spring on the outboard of the caliper and carrier, then plastic covers on the caliper bolts on the inboard face of the caliper. The top cover is visible just below the bottom shock mounting point in the photo. This exposes the 7 mm Allen bolts. Back them out until the threads are flush with the caliper on the inside.

NAFT1

If your brakes are like mine there is a ridge on the outside edge of the rotor preventing you from pulling the caliper off now. I used a small crowbar and wedged it in between the old pad and the rotor to retract the pistons far enough to clear that ridge.

NAFT1

Before tackling the two 18 mm bolts that hold the carrier onto the hub it makes things easier if you turn the steering wheel all the way toward the side on which you are working. These will come off with a little bit of elbow grease.

NAFT1

Now the final piece is to remove the rotor via the 5 mm hex bolt, pull the spent brake sensor off of the inboard pad and remove the two pads. If you're going to clean everything now is the time.

cm60k

Good write-up, Thankss for sharing..

ZAYED,,

ddb

+1 - Thanks!

NAFT1

Retracting pistons is easy. If you do one at a time, you must go slowly, remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, and watch the other piston closely or you may pop the second piston from its bore. Alternatively, use the spent pad to react both pistons at once.

NAFT1

To grease or not; I use synthetic ceramic impregnated brake lube on the spring and contact points. Installation is the reverse of removal.I recommend using the used outboard pad to seat the new inboard one to avoid damaging the pad surface. Finally, yes, that is an aftermarket rotor. I couldn't resist trying it since with my fleet discount it was only $90.

NAFT1

KJI3jflarryfe93

nice job man!
looking great.
please show us some close up pics with the finishing result and when the rims put back in place.

how did you paint the center vents of your new rotors, did you use high temperature resistant spray paint?
what did you do to avoid getting dripping paint on brakepad/disc-surface when you painted centre vents, how did you mask the braking surface?

is it enuff using 1x spraycan for both rotors painting hubs and center vents?

I was thinking about painting center vents for a long time when I am going to modify my brakes with new rotors and calipers from newer AMG's
i don't want my new rotors rusting when they get older, it looks so nasty with rusty brakes using open rim design

Schweinhund

Nice pics, thanks!

Some tips from my experience:

1. You can have the existing rotors resurfaced if they have thickness left within spec
2. I never resurface unless I am getting pulsing (warped rotor- never had this on these cars)
3. You can compress the pistons back using a large channel lock plier and the old inner shoe over the two pistons. Grab the caliper and inner shoe from the side of the caliper towards the axle. The other end of the plier goes around the back of the caliper housing behind the pistons. Works like a charm.
4. Make sure, make sure, make sure the anti-rattle clips are in all the way and in properly. They will fly off and disappear soon if not. This will cause lots of rattle and a knuckling sound when reversing slowly and using the brakes.
5. Tip of the Day: these are the EXACT piece. Amazon (and everyone else gets it wrong). Using them now!
6. Tip of Tomorrow: THESE are the EXACT replacement as well: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...il-34111163415

PelicanParts.com

Nice! We have a DIY tech article for brakes here. If you need any other DIY assistance you can check out our other DIY tech articles here.

-Luccia

NAFT1

These rotors came that way. Otherwise, mask the braking surface of the rotors with masking tape and then cut the excess with an exacto knife.

NAFT1

I'm running monoblocs; not much to see there. The coating is just for corrosion resistance.

trinitony

btw, u can also use these rotors,$180 for the pair @http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2034211312, and there's a lot of brake write-ups on the C43 forum, same front brakes..

CharlyE500

I didn't even know there are after market rotors for W210 E55 !
I paid $700 for rotors and pad 4 years ago damn...

cm60k

C230K "203 421 13 12", is (28mm) vs (32mm) stock, about (4mm) less than stock,,

there are another alternative Rotors got (32mm), and cheaper than stock's..!

ZAYED,,

benzokirk

Honestly, I've stayed away from these rotors (and others like them) that don't have the two piece feature of our OEM rotors. As a matter of fact, when you type in our vehicle information you will see that they're not available for our W210

I believe that you often have to pay for quality, and I'd also recommend that with brake upgrades you stick as close to OEM as possible, and upgrade in quality as well. Such as:

https://www.racingbrake.com/ProductD...oductCode=2284

I also like that they explain the benefits of the two piece rotor, including the fact that they're lighter. I'd like to know your opinion on these rotors, especially your opinion, Zayed and Luccia... I'm asking because I'm considering the brake upgrade before the end of the summer.

cm60k

Stock 2- piece Rotors are perfectly built for heat resistant & less weight & long survive, but it's more costly..!

i'm using OEM alternative drilled Rotors, it's 330mm vs stock 334mm(which i believe nothing to worry), thickness is the main point,

im soo pleased with them, not that much weight compared to stock, but they are cheaper & more availability,,

*of course depends of your style or purpose, track vs street racing vs normal daily use..

ZAYED,,

NAFT1

So, after 9 months of use, these rotors function fine for street use. One problem anyone should be aware of considering these; the offset of the rotor was slightly more positive than the stock ones (i.e. sits toward the outboard portion of the brake caliper). After some brake dust and grime built up it was covering the space between the leading edge caliper and the rotor. I ended up shimming the caliper a few thousandths of an inch to compensate and haven't had subsequent issues. Bottom line: these work for street use, are cheap, and may require some adjustment. If I had to do it over again, I'd go with stock or these http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...uctCode%3D2284


These are cheap, with my fleet discount they are $130 per side with Akebono pads and some $1 homemade shims.

KJI3jflarryfe93

so you are not using genuine HWA 334mm rotors?
they are aftermarket?
that's why they came painted black on centre vents.

i thought you had bought genuine rotors for your car