I've been chasing some oil consumption gremlins in my 54K mile E55 for a while now. Having a car that burns a quart of oil every 1000 miles might be "within spec", but it still pisses me off. I'm used to the Japanese import cars that burn nothing...ever. The tell-tale puff of smoke at startup lead me down the path to replace valve seals as a place to start. If that doesn't solve issues, a motor pull and ring replacement might be in the works.
Let me start out by saying that this is not a job for the faint of heart. It would literally be easier to yank the engine and do this outside the car. It's a VERY time consuming project and I spent close to 10 hours on it in my spare time and I'm no n00b with a wrench. Space is tight, and lots of specialty tools are needed:
* external torx set
* regular torx set
* cam lock guides
* valve seal pullers
* 12mm socket (aka valve seal drift)
* 27mm socket to rotate crank
* pan to drain coolant into
* rags...lots of rags
* valve spring compressor
* 17mm box wrench
* magnetic pickup tool
* cylinder pressurization tool-thingie
* probably some other sheit I'm forgetting
Start the fun by removing stock airbox, coil packs, and spark plug wires. Go ahead and remove one spark plug per cylinder...only one though:
Next, remove the valve covers and attached breather tubes:
Rotate the crank clock-wise to 40 degrees TDC (marked on the underdrive pulley) and attach the cam sprocket locking plates. They are the shiney things with all the camera flash glare marked with the red arrow:
The cam sprocket plates help keep the cams in a position where they won't interfere with the pistons...and to help aid in timing the motor afterwards.
Next, remove the cam rocker bridge:
I removed JUST the passenger side camshaft as well. The factory service manual says to remove both, but I didn't find this necessary. Plus, good luck getting an E18 socket on the driver's side cam sprocket with the oil filter housing in the way. Thanks Mercedes.
Before you can remove the cam shaft, you need to remove the timing chain tensioner. The timing chain tensioner is conveniently located behind the alternator...so that needs to be removed to gain access.
Next comes the fun part. That was lie actually. The supercharger needs to come off. The reason for this is that it's completely in the way for using the valve spring compressor tool. You can try it without, but only the front-most intake valves will be accessible.
Supercharger in place:
Drain the coolant since the air-water intercooler is attached to the supercharger. There's a plug on the side of the radiator:
Fuel disconnected, rail removed, throttle body removed and then we have a 113 engine sans supercharger:
Now it's time to pressurize the cylinders. This prevents the valves from dropping into the cylinder when the springs are removed...also allows you to get the springs off the valves. Put the cylinder pressurization tool into the one open spark plug hole. The second plug should still be in place. The manual says to put the piston you are working on at TDC. I found this to be a futile effort since the crank just wanted to spin anyway. I just let the cylinder sit at BDC (bottom dead center...if that's even a term) and it all worked fine:
Valve spring compressor tool in the case:
Valve spring compressor tool in use:
With the spring compressed, use a little magnetic pick-up tool to carefully pick out the retaining locks. There are two per valve and they each form a half-circle around the valve stem holding the retainer and springs in place.
With the locks and retainer off, you now have access to the valve stem seal:
Grab your valve stem seal pliers and pull the old one off:
Here's how the new seals come. You get 4 seals per package and 2 condoms. The condoms are used to prevent the milled end of the valve stem (and the locking ring) from damaging the valve seal while installing. I put a little Permatex assembly lube on them prior to installing just for added lubrication:
Condom first, THEN lubed up valve seal. Use a 12mm deep socket as a drift to push the new valve stem seal onto the valve guide:
Here's where things got even more retarded. Since space is so cramped inside the engine bay, I needed to make this funky extension thingie for the spring compressor so I could get to the exhaust valves. I used a scrap piece of flat steel stock, drilled some mounting holes, then drilled and tapped a series of holes for the compressor to use. Again, this would be easier to do with the motor out of the car:
With all of that nonsense, you're done. Install things in reverse order making sure to tighten per the factory service manual torque specs. Timing the engine is critical as well so make sure you also consult the FSM for this procedure also.
The car is "put away" for the winter so I'll have to wait until Spring to tell if it helped my oil burning issues. Hopefully this guide showed everyone how much of a pain in the *** this whole thing is and not to attempt it without copious amounts of top-shelf gin.