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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
DIY Brake Fluid Change
#1
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DIY Brake Fluid Change
I decided it was about time to flush the system and figured another DIY might be helpful. The entire procedure took about 2.5 liters of fluid.
Here's the main supplies I used...STAR, Motive bleeder, and Pentosin Super Dot 4 which is the MB spec and OE part from what I can find, http://www.crpindustries.com/pentosi...uperDOT4_3.pdf , but much less at NAPA ($13 per liter) than going to the dealer for the same thing in an MB bottle. You'll also need an 8mm wrench for the rear bleeders and a 10mm for the front caliper bleeders.
First I sucked out as much of the old brake as I could from the reservoir using a 60cc syringe I got from the farm store with a silicone hose suck on the end.
Hook up the bleeder.
Pump up the pressure to about 2bar.
Go to the SBC control unit screen and select General Servicing.
Then Replace Brake Fluid...
Again..
Next screen reminds you of the bleed sequence...
At this screen make sure your bleed hose is connected and sitting in your container so when you hit F3 you can go crack the bleeder open while the SBC builds pressure. You'll hear some valves open and close and then a burst of fluid go into the drain container. After that it slows to a steady flow and the STAR screen will basically tell you what to do next.
Here's a sample screen after I finished with the left rear caliper and moved on to the front calipers. Each of the front calipers have two bleeders - one on the outside and one on the inside. Outside one's are bled first.
Almost done...moving on to last bleeder.
There will be a couple other screens after this which are self-explanatory. After those I removed the pressure bleeder and made sure the proper amount of brake fluid was in there and closed the sytem. The last thing I did was run this pressure check where there SBC tests the system to make sure it's holding the correct amount. 90bar was factory spec if I recall and mine was 88bar so I'm good to go.
Install the plastic cover over the reservoir, shut off the ignition, start the car, check for any codes, and you're done.
I'll be flushing the coolant and changing the oil tomorrow.
Here's the main supplies I used...STAR, Motive bleeder, and Pentosin Super Dot 4 which is the MB spec and OE part from what I can find, http://www.crpindustries.com/pentosi...uperDOT4_3.pdf , but much less at NAPA ($13 per liter) than going to the dealer for the same thing in an MB bottle. You'll also need an 8mm wrench for the rear bleeders and a 10mm for the front caliper bleeders.
First I sucked out as much of the old brake as I could from the reservoir using a 60cc syringe I got from the farm store with a silicone hose suck on the end.
Hook up the bleeder.
Pump up the pressure to about 2bar.
Go to the SBC control unit screen and select General Servicing.
Then Replace Brake Fluid...
Again..
Next screen reminds you of the bleed sequence...
At this screen make sure your bleed hose is connected and sitting in your container so when you hit F3 you can go crack the bleeder open while the SBC builds pressure. You'll hear some valves open and close and then a burst of fluid go into the drain container. After that it slows to a steady flow and the STAR screen will basically tell you what to do next.
Here's a sample screen after I finished with the left rear caliper and moved on to the front calipers. Each of the front calipers have two bleeders - one on the outside and one on the inside. Outside one's are bled first.
Almost done...moving on to last bleeder.
There will be a couple other screens after this which are self-explanatory. After those I removed the pressure bleeder and made sure the proper amount of brake fluid was in there and closed the sytem. The last thing I did was run this pressure check where there SBC tests the system to make sure it's holding the correct amount. 90bar was factory spec if I recall and mine was 88bar so I'm good to go.
Install the plastic cover over the reservoir, shut off the ignition, start the car, check for any codes, and you're done.
I'll be flushing the coolant and changing the oil tomorrow.
Last edited by BrianS; 04-08-2015 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Links to pics updated.
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forcedawd (05-01-2017)
#3
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E55 AMG, 72' Toyota Carina, 63' Ford F100, 72' Mercedes 250c, 15' Harley Davidson Softail
#6
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As always ... great writeup! All I could see were big X for pics and only the sig ! I had to use my VPN to view the blocked pics since I am in China this week .
I need to change my rear pads soon, might as well do rotors and fronts at the same time as well as this! So perfect timing!
To change brake pads, the only additional things I guess I need to do is hit Deactivate SBC, change rotors/pads and reactivate before bleeding right?
I need to change my rear pads soon, might as well do rotors and fronts at the same time as well as this! So perfect timing!
To change brake pads, the only additional things I guess I need to do is hit Deactivate SBC, change rotors/pads and reactivate before bleeding right?
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#15
What software are you using and where do you get it? What are the implications of changing the brake fluid without using STAR? How do you deactivate SBC to change rotors and pads? Thanks!
#16
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Due to the fact that the E55 uses Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) which essentually is a brake by wire system. I think that you have to use Star, as my E63 doesn't have SBC, and you don't need Star to change brake fluid, I changed mine in June of last year. Remember that you need to bleed both sides of the front calipers. Each side of the caliper, has its own bleeder valve, one inside and one outside. The rears just have one bleeder valve.
Last edited by Yuille36; 01-01-2011 at 10:41 AM.
#19
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The bleed order as your sitting in the drivers seat is RR, LR then RF and finally LF in that order. Remember that the E63 front calipers have two bleeder valves, one inside and one outside that will need bleeding. "This is most important do not get brake fluid on your paint, as it will take the finish off in a heart beat"
#20
Excellent write up,, which i found through google.
Question, after doing a quick test with STAR i do not see SBC so i guess i dont have SBC. Therefore i have 2 questions.
1. Can my car without SBC (cls 2007) be done without star?
2. Do i really need the high pressure bleeder? My brakes are fine, i beleive i just have some air in the system as the pedal goes down a tad more than it used to (before i had the engine removed and refitted). So im asking can i do it the old fashioned way? pump the brake pedal undo RR....ect Pump again undo RL...ect?
Question, after doing a quick test with STAR i do not see SBC so i guess i dont have SBC. Therefore i have 2 questions.
1. Can my car without SBC (cls 2007) be done without star?
2. Do i really need the high pressure bleeder? My brakes are fine, i beleive i just have some air in the system as the pedal goes down a tad more than it used to (before i had the engine removed and refitted). So im asking can i do it the old fashioned way? pump the brake pedal undo RR....ect Pump again undo RL...ect?
#21
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
Excellent write up,, which i found through google.
Question, after doing a quick test with STAR i do not see SBC so i guess i dont have SBC. Therefore i have 2 questions.
1. Can my car without SBC (cls 2007) be done without star?
2. Do i really need the high pressure bleeder? My brakes are fine, i beleive i just have some air in the system as the pedal goes down a tad more than it used to (before i had the engine removed and refitted). So im asking can i do it the old fashioned way? pump the brake pedal undo RR....ect Pump again undo RL...ect?
Question, after doing a quick test with STAR i do not see SBC so i guess i dont have SBC. Therefore i have 2 questions.
1. Can my car without SBC (cls 2007) be done without star?
2. Do i really need the high pressure bleeder? My brakes are fine, i beleive i just have some air in the system as the pedal goes down a tad more than it used to (before i had the engine removed and refitted). So im asking can i do it the old fashioned way? pump the brake pedal undo RR....ect Pump again undo RL...ect?
#2 yes (requires 2 bar) 2 check valves in ABS open at this pressure and you can not recreate this condition using the old school brake bleeding procedure, and the vertical run requires a constant pressure and volume to force the air down.
#22
Senior Member
Excellent writeup. What laptop, STAR software and cable are you using? I'd like to purchase the same to do my own brake flush. Did you completely drain the fluid reservoir with the syringe or leave some so as not to introduce more air into the system?
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e46 m3, w211 e55
Can you bleed the brakes w/o star using a extractor from the bleed valve to suck old fluid with something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...it-69328.html?
#24
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Can you bleed the brakes w/o star using a extractor from the bleed valve to suck old fluid with something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...it-69328.html?
(2) I'd recommend a kit that use a compressor to generate pressure (like the motive setup) or vacuum like the snap on kit I use....the hand pump kits are generally garbage and a PITA to use compared to the other options
#25
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I have STAR, a Motive, and a Mac Vacuum (hooks to a compressor). Ended up using the vacuum and it worked great. My experience using STAR for this procedure was different than the OP's. It used a TON of fluid.