WOT hesitation after EC tune....Update

[BenJ]

Back story: 2 weeks ago I had the Eurocharged 172mm pulley, Eurocharged tune, and CM30 pump installed in San Diego by ACG. Immediately noticed a hesitation at WOT. I initiall thought that it was a fuel pump so I had both replaced, problem remained though. Fast forward to today: I took the car down to Evosport and had them run the car on the dyno to see what was up and here is a picture of the dyno: The car goes absolutely pig rich at around 5k...sub 10.0. This would explain the hesitation as I'm probably misfiring at that rich of AFR. After reading a few posts online, is a bad CM30 pump possibly the culprit? I wasn't able to log IAT's, so is there a way to check manually for a properly functioning pump? I was told that the pump was hardwired when installed so I would be led to believe that when the key is in the on position I should be able to hear the pump running, which I don't. So either the pump went bad the day it was installed, it wasn't hardwired as I was told, or I have some other problem. And my numbers were super crappy...sub 400tq and hp. I baselined higher than this stock!

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[CharlyE500]

I don't think its IC pump failure..... when my stock pump failed you will feel your car like 200hp or less.......

[amg guy]

looks like those numbers are uncorrected. pretty good for just a tune and 172.

The AFR is very rich. What did the stock AFR look like?

[berti_00]

unplug your battery over night plug it back in the morning and your good to go

[skratch77]

Originally Posted by amg guy

looks like those numbers are uncorrected. pretty good for just a tune and 172.

The AFR is very rich. What did the stock AFR look like?

Are you serious?

for real 379ftlbs and 400whp with a pulley and tune? those are Horrible numbers and dynojets read high.

uncorrected means thats what the car put down with no corrections.

I would look at the intake temps and would think the car has a dead pump with that A/F

He is down 120rwt and 70whp btw with his setup

[jmb614]

Check your IAT's if you can. I am sure if you contact Jerry he will take care of it provided it is a tuning issue.

[AKnight55]

Originally Posted by skratch77

Are you serious?

for real 379ftlbs and 400whp with a pulley and tune? those are Horrible numbers and dynojets read high.

uncorrected means thats what the car put down with no corrections.

I would look at the intake temps and would think the car has a dead pump with that A/F

He is down 120rwt and 70whp btw with his setup

Ya Dynojet usually read higher

[kustom2k1]

This is a box tune from Eurocharged that you had put on the dyno afterwards? I doubt its the tune.

Usually high IATs are the culprit, you may have air trapped in your HE cooling system.

[BenJ]

Originally Posted by kustom2k1

This is a box tune from Eurocharged that you had put on the dyno afterwards? I doubt its the tune.

Usually high IATs are the culprit, you may have air trapped in your HE cooling system.

This is what I am kind of leaning towards at the moment.

[BenJ]

And yes, a box tune.

[cahiil55k]

I think you should have just had EC reflash it to stock instead of throwing parts at the issue. A bad I/C pump would cause power loss across the board and not just hesitation at WOT. Your numbers are way low, even uncorrected because at 75*F and 34% humidity, the SAE correction factor would have been around 1.01 and uncorrected is 1.00.

[amg guy]

Originally Posted by skratch77

Are you serious?

for real 379ftlbs and 400whp with a pulley and tune? those are Horrible numbers and dynojets read high.

uncorrected means thats what the car put down with no corrections.

I would look at the intake temps and would think the car has a dead pump with that A/F

He is down 120rwt and 70whp btw with his setup

I would think 400 to 420 stock hp. 450 - 470 stock tq on a dynojet. So yeah it's down but I don't think a tune and 172 pulley will get you 470 plus rwhp, maybe 500 rwtq.

Most stuff I've done is on a Mustang which typically read much lower (actual numbers IMO)

What gear is the best for dyno pulls? 3rd or 4th? It looks like this was done in 3rd.

[backdoc7]

I've been thinking of getting the 172.. I'll gladly let you check your IAT's with my Torque app and bluetooth OBDII module if you'll hook me up for a ride once your car is tuned correctly so I can feel the difference of the 172 over stock..
I'm not too far from Irvine.. I'm in Chino Hills if interested.. I will say when my pump died, like Charley said above it felt like 200 hp less..

[skratch77]

Originally Posted by amg guy

I would think 400 to 420 stock hp. 450 - 470 stock tq on a dynojet. So yeah it's down but I don't think a tune and 172 pulley will get you 470 plus rwhp, maybe 500 rwtq.

Most stuff I've done is on a Mustang which typically read much lower (actual numbers IMO)

What gear is the best for dyno pulls? 3rd or 4th? It looks like this was done in 3rd.

he is under 400whp with a pulley and tune and bone stock cars hit 420whp on dynojets,my car bone stock hit 390whp on a load dyno like the mustang you are used to and my car hit 461rwt bone stock on a dynojet.

he can easily make 460-470whp on a dynojet with a 172 and tune and 4th gear is 1:1 but most people use 3rd.It will give you less torque but hp is within 5whp from my own testing.

[cahiil55k]

I just now read that your AFR was 10 . That's a poor tune even if its a box tune. Like I mentioned before, bring her back to stock just to see if things improve before retuning.

[BenJ]

Yeah, I'm going to reflash tomorrow and then if I have the time, look at the ic pump.

[skratch77]

before you go retuning your car you should see if your intake temps are skyrocketing and causing the ecu to go rich.

your tune could be fine but its dumping fuel to save the engine.

any miss fire codes? and how ling have you been driving like this? you might want to swap out your plugs soon and Im sure your cats took a beating with the a/f also

[James@ACGAutomotive]

Ben, if you would like come on down to us and we'll put your e55 on our mustang dyno and data log it. If a retune is required we'll work with Jerry to get that taken care of on our dyno.

Let me know, lunch is on me if you come down.

James@ACG

[BenJ]

Originally Posted by skratch77

before you go retuning your car you should see if your intake temps are skyrocketing and causing the ecu to go rich.

your tune could be fine but its dumping fuel to save the engine.

any miss fire codes? and how ling have you been driving like this? you might want to swap out your plugs soon and Im sure your cats took a beating with the a/f also

I might do new plugs but I will check them first to see their condition. I've driven the car a few hundred miles like this but I havnt gone wot but perhaps a few times and the afr's are fine at 1/2- to 3/4 throttle. The cats no doubt are hating life and you could smell them dying on the dyno but hopefully this can be resolved shortly to prevent catalytic failure. There have been no codes thrown either as well as no stored codes. I had the car hooked up to sds to be sure.

I'm in agreement with you that the issue can very well be the ic pump. I will just need to have it checked, perhaps tomorrow if possible.

[BenJ]

Originally Posted by James@ACGSD

Ben, if you would like come on down to us and we'll put your e55 on our mustang dyno and data log it. If a retune is required we'll work with Jerry to get that taken care of on our dyno.

Let me know, lunch is on me if you come down.

James@ACG

Alright, thanks James. I will keep in touch and I might be able to swing down tomorrow around 1030 if that works. Im thinking ic pump at the moment and I want to test it today to see.

[James@ACGAutomotive]

Originally Posted by BenJ

Alright, thanks James. I will keep in touch and I might be able to swing down tomorrow around 1030 if that works. Im thinking ic pump at the moment and I want to test it today to see.

Let me know by email as i'll be in the back most of the day finishing a few projects.

James@acgsandiego.com

[BenJ]

Little update. I took the car to my mechanic and they inspected the ic pump and it is indeed dead. They started off by listening to it with a stethoscope(sp?) and it wasn't running when the ignition was in the on position or when the car was running and hot. They then checked the current draw of the pump and it was drawing over 10amps so it was indeed dead.