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2016 CLS63S AMG, 2017 GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate, 2019 KTM 1290 Super Adventure R
I replaced the OEM "Made in Japan" Map sensor on my E55 today with a genuine Bosch 0 261 230 191 unit purchased on eBay shipped directly from Germany. Changing that sensor was a !@#%&^* as stated previously, a long thin 1/4 box wrench is the only way you're getting that front bolt out and you have to carefully snap off the thin plastic around the bolt to make room for the box wrench. Stuff a rag or paper towel under map sensor between the valley and supercharger so if you drop something it doesn't fall into the abyss.
After replacing the sensor, I reset sensor adaptations in STAR/DAS and fired the beast and drove her around for at least an hour. I still have the tip-in hiccup, but it's far less pronounced and far better than it was when I originally installed the 82mm S550 TB. My TPS % is still 1.2 to 2.0 at idle in D and the car keeps setting a P505 idle malfunction code even though I've triple checked for leaks using carb cleaner, there are no leaks anywhere.
The car idles smooth as butter now and runs incredible all the way to redline, I just need to work with Jerry to figure out the slight tip-in hiccup that occasionally occurs, but the car is totally livable the way it is now. In short, the MAP sensor change seemed to help a little - probably placebo effect - but it wasn't the magic fix I expected it to be.
Denroll, do you remember how much the connector to the TB was? A friend of mine has ordered one from Chrysler dealer in NYC and it was something like 60 or 70$. Could be or did I give him the wrong part number? No quibble, just want to make sure I get the right one (took the p/n down from your picture).
Oh, and here's a slight update. I have changed the routing of the PCV hoses and now have it running similar to the stock setup. My supercharger inlet had a port that was capped off, so I was able to use that. The two smaller hoses from the valve covers are joined with a T junction, which then runs to the s/c inlet port. For the fat hose on the driver's side, I added a port to my Y-pipe similar to the stock configuration (it runs into one of the rubber intake boots after the airbox).
I know it's not in my head, but the car idles easier and runs smoother now. The nicest part? I think this has finally cured my TB hiccup issue! Yes, that's what I said. I thought I had fixed it before, but I got another one a few weeks ago. I've done a few hundred miles since rerouting the PCV hoses and I have not had a hiccup. Here's the port I added:
Oh, and here's a slight update. I have changed the routing of the PCV hoses and now have it running similar to the stock setup. My supercharger inlet had a port that was capped off, so I was able to use that. The two smaller hoses from the valve covers are joined with a T junction, which then runs to the s/c inlet port. For the fat hose on the driver's side, I added a port to my Y-pipe similar to the stock configuration (it runs into one of the rubber intake boots after the airbox).
I know it's not in my head, but the car idles easier and runs smoother now. The nicest part? I think this has finally cured my TB hiccup issue! Yes, that's what I said. I thought I had fixed it before, but I got another one a few weeks ago. I've done a few hundred miles since rerouting the PCV hoses and I have not had a hiccup. Here's the port I added:
The only codes I got were the P0105 & 6 due to the fuel trims bouncing around while off the throttle. After connecting my hoses, I am getting a P0505, but it is running so smooth now. I checked for leaks, but didn't find any.
For those STILL with hiccup and/or p0106, here is something that might help.
When I had my oem SC and then installed the 82tb, I kept having the p0106 cel and hiccup issues. I previously did not have any such problems with my 80. I then reinstalled my 80tb that I had before the 82 but the hiccup and cel were still there. It was not until I got a BIP tune that all was gone and good.
Fast forward to Weistec SC. After installing it, the dam hiccup returned. But it returned in a different way. It would only return if I drove on the highway and was at 80 mph or higher for about 5 mins. Under 80mph and all other times, no hiccup. And the P0106 would show up very infrequently. And, the throttle percentage showed 1% at idle.
One night, my car went into limp mode and would only go idle speed. No cel but I got the red ESP message...weird. I got a replacement 80tb and I mentioned all of this to my Indy and they suggested that I try the tb reset with increasing the tb blade angle. When I informed them that I have, they told me to do it 3x in a row. The reason as they told me is that from their experience sometimes you think your changes via Star has been made/accepted but for some reason it has not.
Several days ago, I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes. Then I used Star to turn off the EGR valve, air control valve and rear O2s. I did this before but this time I repeated the steps for each 3x. I then used Star and repeated the same steps 3x for the tb reset and increased to the max limit on the TB blade angle.
It is now 4 days later and no more issues. No more hiccups or p0106. Car runs good and is very strong. I do not understand why all is now ok vs before or what actually solved the problem but appearantly something worked.......weird.
I added a 4" to 3.5" silicon coupler between the y-pipe and throttle body, and it has made a bid difference. Throttle is much smoother, and less hiccups/stumbling for me.
Next is to swap out MAP sensor with latest, and change O2 sensors.
You used the coupler to snoodle the Y-pipe and TB inlet together, like made a better seal around it? Good idea. I did that with the 90mm and the OEM Y-pipe. That coupler and a couple of large hose clamps was all it took.
Originally Posted by jcjmw
they told me to do it 3x in a row. The reason as they told me is that from their experience sometimes you think your changes via Star has been made/accepted but for some reason it has not.
Several days ago, I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes. Then I used Star to turn off the EGR valve, air control valve and rear O2s. I did this before but this time I repeated the steps for each 3x. I then used Star and repeated the same steps 3x for the tb reset and increased to the max limit on the TB blade angle.
It is now 4 days later and no more issues. No more hiccups or p0106. Car runs good and is very strong. I do not understand why all is now ok vs before or what actually solved the problem but appearantly something worked.......weird.
Interesting. I'm going to try the adaptation 3 times and see what happens. How many degrees is your blade open at idle and what is the idle rpm in park and in gear?
Also, with the 90mm, is your throttle basically a hair trigger? My TPS hits 100% in like the first 25% off the pedal travel. Pulling away at a light is either grandma slow or maniac crazy.
I went from being constantly rich at WOT until recently, where it is running lean. I pulled the rear seat to check the pump and fuel sender, but it looks good. The stuff on drivers side was replaced about 25k miles ago. I didn't pull it and look, but the filter should be good. Activating the fuel pumps with star while engine is off sounded good and I could feel lots of fuel pumping through the looped part of the fuel rail. It isn't breaking up or anything, just running lean.
Then I got to thinking, this started happening right after I put the PCV hoses back to the stock configuration. I don't know why that would cause it, but I might pull the hoses just to see what happens.
You used the coupler to snoodle the Y-pipe and TB inlet together, like made a better seal around it? Good idea. I did that with the 90mm and the OEM Y-pipe. That coupler and a couple of large hose clamps was all it took.
Interesting. I'm going to try the adaptation 3 times and see what happens. How many degrees is your blade open at idle and what is the idle rpm in park and in gear?
Also, with the 90mm, is your throttle basically a hair trigger? My TPS hits 100% in like the first 25% off the pedal travel. Pulling away at a light is either grandma slow or maniac crazy.
I went from being constantly rich at WOT until recently, where it is running lean. I pulled the rear seat to check the pump and fuel sender, but it looks good. The stuff on drivers side was replaced about 25k miles ago. I didn't pull it and look, but the filter should be good. Activating the fuel pumps with star while engine is off sounded good and I could feel lots of fuel pumping through the looped part of the fuel rail. It isn't breaking up or anything, just running lean.
Then I got to thinking, this started happening right after I put the PCV hoses back to the stock configuration. I don't know why that would cause it, but I might pull the hoses just to see what happens.
My TB % is 2. The aeroforce gauge does not show how much more then 2. Idle rpm is 700 in P and D.
Go figure, now my Aeroforce gauge is broke for the 4th in 10 months.....urgh.
For those STILL with hiccup and/or p0106, here is something that might help.
When I had my oem SC and then installed the 82tb, I kept having the p0106 cel and hiccup issues. I previously did not have any such problems with my 80. I then reinstalled my 80tb that I had before the 82 but the hiccup and cel were still there. It was not until I got a BIP tune that all was gone and good.
Fast forward to Weistec SC. After installing it, the dam hiccup returned. But it returned in a different way. It would only return if I drove on the highway and was at 80 mph or higher for about 5 mins. Under 80mph and all other times, no hiccup. And the P0106 would show up very infrequently. And, the throttle percentage showed 1% at idle.
One night, my car went into limp mode and would only go idle speed. No cel but I got the red ESP message...weird. I got a replacement 80tb and I mentioned all of this to my Indy and they suggested that I try the tb reset with increasing the tb blade angle. When I informed them that I have, they told me to do it 3x in a row. The reason as they told me is that from their experience sometimes you think your changes via Star has been made/accepted but for some reason it has not.
Several days ago, I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes. Then I used Star to turn off the EGR valve, air control valve and rear O2s. I did this before but this time I repeated the steps for each 3x. I then used Star and repeated the same steps 3x for the tb reset and increased to the max limit on the TB blade angle.
It is now 4 days later and no more issues. No more hiccups or p0106. Car runs good and is very strong. I do not understand why all is now ok vs before or what actually solved the problem but appearantly something worked.......weird.
Update: the next morning after this post, the hiccup came back. I took it to my Indy. He told me to be patient and just drive the car without clearing the cel or one of those quick turn off and turn ignition back on. Wel, that afternoon the car on its own resumed all as if nothing happened. The hiccup was gone and no cel. Since then it has not come back and I have tried to trigger it but it has not returned.
...I am getting a P0505, but it is running so smooth now.
And that code is exactly the idle air control code...
So 90mm TB will remain also a No No in these engine series?
Is there anything mods out there by chance that does not throw a code?
Wow you made a really great job!!!
Can you please tell me all the parts i need to buy? And where?
I am from spain and want to make the same performance job.
Please help me.
thank you so much sir.
Best regards
Ummm... 3 tanks of gas? Ha, I might exaggerate a little when I try to justify my mods. But for real, on my drive in to work this morning, from cold start, exiting my garage, sitting at one stop light, and then about 12 miles of highway, I was at an average of 24.4 mpg on the computer. A longer trip might have seen it go higher, too. Disclaimer: I have larger injectors, so this may not be accurate, but I can still use it as a relative measurement and see if something increases or decreases. Doing the heads and the headers also helped when I did them.
Throttle body is ~$450 from Jegs. The plug from Chrysler is about $60. I don't recall how much the snout is off the top of my head, but I want to say it was kinda expensive, around $200 or so. If you get the TB cable from MB, that's almost $100, but that is not needed. The bigger Y-pipe and airbox connectors is also a nice chunk of change, too. Snout and Y-pipe part numbers can be found with a search as they are the same used for the 82mm upgrade. Add a few more bucks for little odds and ends like some nice stainless steel hex bolts, Perma-tex, etc.
Oh, and yes, I still get that forking hiccup! It still happens at the exact same spot on my daily commute. At least I have ruled out the 82mm TB as the cause. It is something else. Maybe getting too choked up with that stock intake.[/QUOTE]
I got the BBK throttle body from a friend. I bought the OEM Mercedes snout from my local Mercedes dealer.
EDIT: Keep in mind the bolt pattern for the BBK throttle body does not match the supercharger inlet. You will have to have a machine shop weld on some extra material and then tap the threads for the new bolt pattern. They can also bore the inlet out from 82mm to 90mm to match the throttle body. Or you can have them make an adapter plate that uses both bolt patterns.
The OEM Y-pipe will need to be coupled to the throttle body with a silicone coupler. You can make your own Y-pipe, but getting them to match the oval part of the air boxes will be muy difficile.
Dear sir, thanks so much for your information but i still have some doubts:
-Do i have to fix the plug cable with the mercedes cable?
-the bolt pattern for the BBK throttle body does not match the supercharger inlet.*how can i fit the bbk tb? If i have the stock e55 supercharger. Where can i get that item?
- can you give me the serial number of the oem mercedes snout to buy it.
Or send me the link to buy it please.
Excuse me for so many questions sir.
thank you and best regards
The OEM Mercedes throttle body cable can be found at ECS Tuning. You can also use the one in your car, but it will be cut and spliced:
I got the BBK throttle body from a friend. I bought the OEM Mercedes snout from my local Mercedes dealer.
EDIT: Keep in mind the bolt pattern for the BBK throttle body does not match the supercharger inlet. You will have to have a machine shop weld on some extra material and then tap the threads for the new bolt pattern. They can also bore the inlet out from 82mm to 90mm to match the throttle body. Or you can have them make an adapter plate that uses both bolt patterns.
The OEM Y-pipe will need to be coupled to the throttle body with a silicone coupler. You can make your own Y-pipe, but getting them to match the oval part of the air boxes will be muy difficile.[/QUOTE]
Thanks a lot for that information sir.
Just las questions:
the BBK throttle body does not match the supercharger inlet... so what piece can i use to put them together?
so i have to connect the tb plug with the oem mercedes cable?
Total cost in pieces will be 1300$ right?
Thank you very much and best regards.
For those who have seen the two side by side, can you see if the stock snout can be rewelded for the 90mm TB since the 82mm one has to be hacked up to work?
I am looking for a good fabricator/welder to reweld a snout (factory or 82mm) to fit the BBK, any ideas?
I ask because I know it has to be angled kinda weird to fit between the bellows and under the hood.
For my version 1.0 setup, I had this adapter plate. I used the silicone coupler to seal the TB and Y-pipe together.
Once I removed my supercharger, I wanted a better solution, so I made version 2.0. I had a shop weld some extra material to the snout and then had a machinist plane it down, bore it out to a full 90mm, and tap threads for the BBK TB. This is a much better setup.
06-24-2015, 01:45 PM
