june82000

I noticed during the past week or so when the ambient air temps started to increase with the spring weather (80-85 degrees F) that my power seems to be down a little. On my way into work this morning I decided to hook up the scanner. This morning was abnormally cool (36 degrees) for this time of year so power was better than on the hotter days but after starting and about a 5 minute warm up I was already reading 68 degrees IAT. To make a long story short, after about an hour drive with ambient temps still in the high 30s my IAT peaked out between 118-122 degrees F.

I've read that IAT should be about 20 degrees above ambient; so is that correct?

Is there documentation somewhere stating what normal IAT figures should be?

I read the long thread on the I/C pump options - if it turns out i'll be needing one.

Has anyone hooked up an I/C flow meter of some sort?

The car is bone stock and I might add that unfortunately I have the license plate mounted in probably the worst of all places - you guessed it. When I got the car I wasn't looking forward to putting holes in the bumper cover so yes, it's over the lower grill in front of the I/C.

I know it's not optimum driving around with an elevated IAT, but is there any chance of damaging anything as ambient temperatures rise with the ensuing weather? I just want to know how much of a priority this should be for me. I'm not going to the track or anything like that.

Thanks boys...

Forrest Gump 9

Usually 15-20 degree.

With some work you can get it down to 8-12 degree. Peak AIT depend on your set up, how much boost, headers??

Joncl

I would check your ic pump first, then anything blocking your heat exchanger will affect cooling since the ambient air needs to hit the xchanger to cool the water.

By being over 100* intake air temps you will be pulling some timing hence the reason you feel it's sluggish on hot days

june82000

Everything is stock to my knowledge...

ginger55k

Check your IC pump is ok, easy to replace if not, a new pump will transform your car and release more horses, the stock HE is not the greatest either, if you were to start modding upgrade the HE as a minimum, split cooling etc etc....

The amount of heat these cars produce is unreal even worse in hotter climates, SC and crank pulley upgrades put the system under even more strain generating more heat.

All mods to these cars should really start with sorting the cooling out first.

ginger55k

Forgot to mention, as the IAT temperature rises the ECU pulls timing, that's the power drop you feel, as it gets even hotter the SC clutch will disengage to safegaurd the engine, at least your doing the right thing and monitoring the IAT's, it should not cause any damage if all your systems are working correctly.

black06c230

IC pump and split the system if you say the system is completely stock.

amg_w211

My 2006 E55 is bone stock. A few notes on IAT:

1. My IAT usually runs from 15-25 degrees F above ambient.
2. At 35 degrees F out, you should be getting full power as your IAT should be well under the limits of retardation, assuming your intercooler pump is working properly.
3. Documentation (WIS GF07.61-P-4028AM) that I've seen shows that our 113.990 supercharged engines will start pulling timing once IAT reaches the following:

Stage I. 95 degrees F. Retards 3.5 degrees
Stage II. 113 degrees F. Retards 6.3 degrees
Stage III. 149 degrees F. Retards 9.5 degrees

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ll-timing.html

Cooling is key to keeping maximal power to the supercharged E55. I would bet you have a intercooler pump going out, assuming you have the original pump. I would highly consider the latest OEM version Bosch 010 (upgraded/resdesigned pump) that seems ultra reliable (can be purchased around $120). Earlier pumps were extremely unreliable. And being OEM, you don't need to worry about wire splicing or bracket modification.

Another thing might be air in your cooling line and it reduces the effectiveness of the intercooler system. Lastly, to test if your license plate location is the issue, remove it and drive around to see what IAT temps you're running.

june82000

Thank you so much everyone - this is a great community. Since they're so inexpensive and I have a gut feeling that mine hasn't been changed before I think I'll probably just order the BOSCH pump and try it out. The clincher would be to check to see which pump is actually installed on my car. If original, shouldn't it be the 003 part number?

They aren't listed as fitting the E55, but FCP euro has them for $98/shipped. http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...ump-0392022010

Before I order though, just to make sure, that IS the correct one, right? Completely Plug 'n Play?

Thanks again guys...

FinanceMike

Great to know that living in south Florida, my car pulls timing the second I turn the key in the ignition.

amg_w211

That's the updated OEM pump. I've had it in my car the last 4 years with no issues. Completely plug and play. Great price and vendor.

Let us know if it fixed your issue. Make sure you bleed it properly.

typhoon43

I hear you man. I should have never installed the Aeroforce gauges. I watch IAT's more than I watch the road. As soon as I get above 96° I start frowning and refuse to even get on the car because I'm expecting to be let down so bad. I think I have issues

june82000

As long as you aren't watching IAT more than S. Florida bikini babes then is say there's still hope for you lol...

black06c230

While AL is not like FL year round summer here can get just as bad which is why a KC trunk tank and meth cures all my IAT problems.

blackbenzz

If this is true I'm screwed. I'm at Stage 2 before I even stage my car

Exotic-metal55

I have seen /heard the same IAT temp timing pull as well for the same temps but thought the pull was a little less at stage 1 and 2. 85-89 deg seems to be the best launch temp for me, much colder and have seen a loss of power (slight bog).

EREBUS

I have a clutched Eurocharged supercharger pulley and a Eurocharged 185mm crank pulley that keeps me @30 degrees above ambient......cruising. With high boost comes high IAT's. These are my cooling mods....

Split coolant systems
Johnson cm30 pump
Eurocharged Heat Exchanger
Custom secondary heat exchanger
2.5 gallon Engine compartment intercooler tank
Complete 10an insulated intercooler lines
Purple Ice
Insulated engine valley
Insulated intercooler
@5 gallons of total system coolant


I have to run meth to control the IAT's. Single nozzle post supercharger/pre intercooler keeps my IAT's @93 degrees on WOT on hot Texas summer days. Power gains are easy with these M113K engines. Cooling the IAT's to utilize all the power is the trick.....

black06c230

30* over ambient on that setup making a bit more boost than my 195 but cruising at 70 I am able to be 10* or less than ambient in 80* + temps which I solely can say my KC is doing its job.

Honestly don't know why more don't just skip the HE and just do a trunk tank and KC. Then add meth if you are over a 180 crank and or upper pulley combo.

EREBUS

I'm sure it is.....at cruising. I run mile races and 40-140mph roll racing. WOT shuts off the compressor. I'm pretty sure you have watched your killer chiller IAT's jump to triple digits on long WOT pulls in 100 degree outside temps.

Honestly don't know why someone would sacrafice cabin a/c in 110 degree weather when they can just use meth injection to do the job. It's a luxury sedan, not a gutted fox body stang. lol

black06c230

Guess I didn't realize you have ridden in my car before to realize the cabin AC barely suffers. And to counter the AC shutting off at WOT and really keep IATs down is why I have meth also. So running 40-140 for me is no problem either. Just in 80* weather my IATs would start at around 65* vs yours on a guess around 80-90*.

june82000

Interesting to see where this thread has gone to but lots good information here. To get slightly back on topic with my original issue, I went to bleed the intercooler system and from a cold start let it idle for about 10 minutes. No fluid coming out. I didn't go to the trouble to check IAT but at what point should the IC pump be running? Should I have seen fluid flow in 10 minutes time?

EREBUS

I unfortunately wear a suit everyday. Sitting in traffic in a black car with outside temps above 100 degrees with a weaker AC would suck. On your comment about riding in your car, i would never. I don't ride in slow cars.

jonnyc

sounds like you put your license plate in front of the heat exchanger.if you did you're blocking the air flow.the stock HE needs all the air flow it can get.take the license plate off for awhile and check your iat.

june82000

Yes I did.

However, I don't have evidence yet that my IC pump is even running at all.

june82000

This time, from a warm restart. Set up for bleeding (tube from bleed port to reservoir) and started the car. 4 bars and a few revs past 2k up to 4k. Still no fluid coming out of the bleed port. I don't think it's running. Any fuses to look for before I crawl under the car? Just not feeling like getting under the car right now...