sexyxe

Wanted to get a pre mod dyno baseline.

Shop is located about 40mins away, so I drive there and get straight on to the spinners. Dyno dynamics dyno.

Do a total of ten pulls, back to back to back....

Last three were done in 3rd as 4th was topping out the dyno and just wouldn't hold (?) no matter how slow the throttle was laid into.

Managed..... 255rwkw/580NM. Talk about disappointed...

Facts from today! Was 42 degrees C in the shop. Car showed 39c for the drive there. Pressure was 997hpa, putting us at 450'. 60% humidity. AFR was a tail sniffer. It was topping out (not showing and higher) than 9.5:1 from 4800 rpm on every run.

I'm hoping the weather is what has given such low figures. I was hoping for 10% more than that as a minimum! I was optimistically expecting 20% more as a max.

Can everyone reassure me that the car is okay and if it was 20c cooler etc that I'd have the bees knees of cars? It is odd as it is still quick on the road.

Edit: car details - stock as a rock. Use 98RON fuel, 125 km.

SterlingE55

Might check your HE pump. Swap with an 010 Bosch. Log you IATs as well.

sexyxe

Just loaded up a box EC tune. The car feels great. Tried to do some before and after bum dyno runs and it is noticeably stronger. Cant wait to start really putting some mods together. I've got a PLM HE sitting under my Christmas tree at the moment. I will grab a BWK and pump to top things off.

TheTherapist

In Port Hedland where the weather can be similar to Darwin I stopped driving hard during the day and only put my foot down after dark - huge difference in power. Not just the heat but the humidity also. I wouldn't have even bothered DYNOing in those conditions.

The box Eurocharged tunes work really well. You'll love the BWK also and the HE is almost essential.

2000UZJ

107*F with a stock intercooler and pump will net you little HP after 10 back to back pulls. I would dyno in the night time or in the cooler seasons. Upgrade your heat exchanger (intercooler) and your pump. That will help immensely in those temperatures.

sexyxe

Cheers. Going to be fitting the HE tomorrow, and pump is on its way too.

As dumb as it sounded I hadn't thought of SC shutting off. I was thinking it would be dropping timing and adding fuel. I could hear it 'blow off' once throttle was released though.

Where can you measure boost on these cars for the dyno?

sexyxe

Holy Bejezus. If I have to ever remove and refit that bumper I might just sell the car.

Turns out it is still using the original intercooler pump! Manufacturing date 08/04, car is a 01/05 build, first registered 03/05.

Elhonaz

Did mine couple months ago and it also had original pump on it.. god knows how long its been broken before I got to it. Im sure there are many of these still going with bad IC pumps on them, even after all these years

sexyxe

Did you notice a difference?

Elhonaz

its a very big difference when under load. I kind of got used to how it was driving with a dead pump as i didnt get to drive it hard and actually didnt want to go full out WOT all the time it being new to me. With new pump the car just keep on pulling when the AIT's stay in control. If pump is dead the car is going to heat soak in 2nd or 3rd 0-60 run when done back to back.

sexyxe

If my pump has died, the car may pull my arms off when I get a new one in there

OZZYAMG

Hi

If the supercharger had switched off I don't think you would have achieved anywhere near the quoted figures you have presented us in the opening post especially considering the heat on the day of the dyno run. With no supercharger and the heat on the day you would be extremely lucky to push over 150rwkw as the car is seriously a very slow car and loses a lot of power without the supercharger on. In fact a 4.1 litre auto xe falcon (another australian car) would go about the same speed as your E55 without the supercharger engaged.

I am 100% certain that your intercooler water pump is working and that your supercharger was in fact engaged 100% and that you are having other issues such as a HUGE amount of heat soak which in turn is reducing the engines power output as the ecu has retarded the timing and added extra fueling to help rev without detonation in the high heat conditions.

If your intercooler water pump was not working you would be complaining immensely about how the car drove all the way to the dyno shop and back...it would be extremely slow when applying the throttle and the engine would just rev out and the car would not gain much momentum at all, once again like a 4.1 litre xe falcon from the 1980s.

I bet you any money if you let your engine cool down for a couple of hours and do a dyno run on a much cooler day say under 25 degrees than you will achieve a much higher figure.

Let us know how you go and keep us in the loop.

Regards,

OZZYAMG

sexyxe

<br />
<br />
Hey no hating on the XEs I love those cars. Such a sexy shape. First registered car was an XE with a 302 clev in it. Burn out machine!<br />
<br />
Unfortunately a 25c day is nigh on impossible. I'm just going to have to live with that I guess. Couple of nights ago we dipped to a night low of 29.8c - uncomfortable sleeping weather.

Anyhow a new pump and BWK is in transit, will be on in the new year, then some headers and I'll get another tune and dyno and compare! Hopefully in the cooler months too.

OZZYAMG

Hi


All of those mods will do wonders and the base figure you already have will be a great starting point to compare the new results to.


Best of luck with it all, maybe consider getting a trunk mounted water tank to increase the amount of coolant capacity. This mod alone was what made a huge change in my combustion temps and allowed for a big increase in power output.


Maybe next time you do a dyno run leave your car to cool down overnight and run it up on the dyno first thing in the morning.


Have a great Christmas up in Darwin.


Regards,


OZZYAMG

layzie12g

A Dyno Dynamics reads incredibly low unless the numbers are "massaged". This is done by telling the dyno that the room is 120 degrees or whatever the number is that the shop wants to use. I have spent many hours on a Dynamics. Its a tuning tool. With a Dynamics you can make a 100 whp car read as being 1000 whp.

OZZYAMG

Hi


Isn't this why the Dyno Dynamics product has a feature implemented called "Shootout Mode"? I thought that shooutout mode was developed so that the dyno reading off one dyno could be compared with a certain amount of accuracy with a dyno reading off another dyno assuming that both were Dyno Dynamics dyno's in shootout mode?


Yes I also understand the dyno room temps can be manually altered by the user, but I also thought that in shooutout mode the dyno dynamics dyno will use an externally mounted temperature sensor to calculate the temperature in the dyno room?


Am I wrong here? Have I been misled over the past 10 or so years using Dyno Dynamics dyno's in Australia?


Regards,


OZZYAMG

sexyxe

I did see the tuner at one point inputting all the weather data in. I assumed that made it corrected?

OZZYAMG

Hi


To sexyxe: are you able to post up a copy of your dyno run on the forums?


Regards,


OZZYAMG

sexyxe

I didn't bother getting a print out.

Max.H

why would you do that? What were you expecting with all that heat?

sexyxe

It is the weather I live in, was two or three degrees hotter than normal, but still not uncommon. I wanted a baseline and got one.

What did I want? I was expecting about 275rwkw/650nm even in the heat, hoping for 300/700 but that was probably never going to happen. Live and learn!