£ C43 £ AMG £

Guys


can you please confirm the torque specs for both the standard factory head bolts and also the ARP head studs.


many thanks

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

There is no official torque spec for the ARP studs on this engine. You should be fine with 75-80ft-lbs using ARP lube on the threads, or 80-85ft-lbs using engine oil on the threads. I personally torqued a little higher but my block has thick iron Darton sleeves which are less prone to distortion under high clamping loads.

£ C43 £ AMG £

thank you, 80ft-lbs sounds correct.

I am not taking the heads off, but I will remove one head bolt at a time and replace all x20 with an ARP stud.

rockthemullet

The ARP spec for that fastener is three increments ending at 90ftlbs. I used 30-60-90. I also went back through after ~300 miles and retorqued everything. They did drop in torque so my retorque was necessary.

Make sure you are generous with the ARP lube on the top and bottom of the washers... if not, they will stick to the nut and you can experience a false reading

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

That spec is for the raw fastener, no? Unless its a recent change ARP didn't sell a kit for the 55k. I've been meaning to put one of my torque plates on a bare stock block and check the cylinders with a dial bore gauge to see how badly they distort with the studs at certain torque levels.

£ C43 £ AMG £

Got to order them from Weistec unless you have the ARP part no?


https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=http:...cYXk-_E2s39W-A

rockthemullet

Correct, that's fastener spec and ARP does not sell an M113 specific kit

I'd love the info if you get around to it!

Forrest Gump 9

Iirc, two kit for the nissan sr20 will be enough for the E55.

Elhonaz

For factory bolts its 4 sequence, 1 is 10, 2 is 30 and 3 and 4 are 90 degrees

So:

1: 10Nm
2: 30Nm
3: 90 degrees
4: 90 degrees

£ C43 £ AMG £

thank you, I was going to check my current bolts, but given the 4 step sequence all I can do is check for 30Nm,


I will be switching to ARP studs instead, changing one at a time .

BC928

That would be very important and well received.

BC928

Back at this step. No one said I was gonna win the race but I sure as **** finish.

I have the Nissan or whatever studs and nuts - have to order the HGs.

Since I have the angle and digital torque wrench I was thinking I would do the angle and see where the torque is to release.

SICAMG

BC I torqued my head studs to 85psi and that is what was recommended and told by Weistec as well and never had an issue.

BC928

Thats a great guideline thanks. With the mostly free standing towers apart from the block walls it should distort enough to matter outside of racing.

BC928

The ARPs with the four steps from WSM are lading around 85lbs so that seems good.

SICAMG

That's where I ended up . Holds 18lbs of boost and Nitrous no problem LOL.

BC928

Did you decide to go back and retorque?

SICAMG

No but I do have a rather "different" way of torque procedures on my engines....weather it is right or wrong.
I will torque all studs to 75% of max in a heated garage and leave it there for the night. The next day I will sightly loosen each stud and make one continuous torque swing to 85lbs. Leave it there again and go back and check each one the next day
My theory is to let the head gaskets compress and relax before the max torque number. I have run 25lbs of boost and 150 hit of nitrous and making 950hp on my small bock ford engines and never had a gasket fail or leak doing it this way.

By the way I will be doing my Beehive spring swap with out pulling the engine. I just had the engine out last November and really just want the springs done so right now I am buying three different tools to compress the springs while in the car. The angles will be a little tricky.
A cam swap is possible but I don't trust anything I read from any venders so far. Race IQ seems to be more into the lumpty lump sound and VRP/Kleeman cam specs I know of no one using them.

SICAMG

Always have oil on the threads. Also do not use synthetic.